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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 11:25 am 
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ParanoidAndroid wrote:
If I wanted to TB a whammy with this, would the fact that it has its own adapter tha runs 9VAC (1.5 amp) output matter? Not sure if the bias R would need tweaking, but maybe.
If this works, Ima do it with my digitech xp as well. 8)


I run it off a 9volt adapter, the voltage is mainly drawn up by the relay which are usually 9 - 12 volts

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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 1:05 pm 
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ParanoidAndroid wrote:
If I wanted to TB a whammy with this, would the fact that it has its own adapter tha runs 9VAC (1.5 amp) output matter? Not sure if the bias R would need tweaking, but maybe.
If this works, Ima do it with my digitech xp as well. 8)


9VAC?? Or do you mean DC? If it is 9v DC I think a 470R bias resistor would work fine. and produce no problems. At that voltage the transistor should be fully saturated and so miss switching not a problem!


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 2:26 pm 
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The whammy uses its own power supply, and its 9 volts AC and I am 99% sure it does not internally convert it to DC like say a Line 6 w/ its AC power supply for example.
So, would that matter?

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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 4:53 pm 
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ParanoidAndroid wrote:
The whammy uses its own power supply, and its 9 volts AC and I am 99% sure it does not internally convert it to DC like say a Line 6 w/ its AC power supply for example.
So, would that matter?


itll definetly need to be DC but you could just do it the messy way and get a cheap 9 volt psu for the bypass switch power as the connections are isolated via the relay theres no risk of noise.
sorry if that doesnt make any sense im on tranquilisers at the minute.
I have built this particular circuit quite a few times now and since all the bits i've used are either cheap or salvaged from modems (relays) and other stuff it is a hell of alot cheaper than paying 5 quid for a 3PDT switch

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 8:14 pm 
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I can't find the post where the relay was spec'd. I see them listed as 9v, but the one photo I saw of a built unit has 5v marked on the relay.

Can I get a Mouser part number?

And what kind of switches? SPST? Momentary?

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 9:47 pm 
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Here ya go: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... tpsw%3d%3d
Only 15 in stock :shock:

I used 5v relays because I used an inline 5v regulator. The whole rack ran at only 5v. Also allowed me to basically use any DC voltage source up to like 48v!

Any SPST switch would work! Momentary would make it work as a true-bypass stutter effect.

Use your imagination cause you can do some really cool stuff with this circuit. Just wait till you all see what I have up my sleeve :twisted:


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 6:39 pm 
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Just to clarify:

R1 is a pulldown, yes?

R2 is a LED-limiting resistor?

The LED is just there for showing status?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 8:04 pm 
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Correct on both remarks!
R1 is used to ensure that the transistor is pulled into the saturated region.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 8:32 pm 
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gtrplaya101 wrote:
R1 is used to ensure that the transistor is pulled into the saturated region.

So what value is good here? 1M+?

Thanks man. I'm just about ready to put one of these into service. 8)

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:15 pm 
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depends on the voltage.
I would try 470R


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:21 pm 
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gtrplaya101 wrote:
depends on the voltage.
I would try 470R

The boards are setup to run 9v, right?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:23 pm 
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anyone try the boards yet? I totally forgot about them and stumbled upon them today.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 5:17 pm 
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I use them all the time :)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 5:41 pm 
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I keep meaning to, and then I realize I don't really know what parts values to use. :(

I bought these relays, but I'm not 100% sure if they are right:
http://www.futurlec.com/Relays/HFD2-09.shtml

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 7:10 pm 
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No, those are really wrong haha. Those are made to see 120v, where a pedal only has 9v!

Here is what I use:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron/G5V-2-H1-DC5/?qs=B3tblJ0Nlt9vPpFeBhhwGQ%3d%3d
I know they say 5v but I run them at 9v all the time with no problem. I actually think they are rated for up to 48v but I wouldnt take my word for it!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 8:51 pm 
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gtrplaya101 wrote:
No, those are really wrong haha. Those are made to see 120v, where a pedal only has 9v!

Even though it's marked as 9v 2-amp??

The data sheet shows it running at 3v, 5v, 9v, etc, all DC. The 120v is AC.

Am I just totally reading it wrong?


Also, is there any way we could get an actual known-working parts list? I'd love to use these as I think they are a fantastic idea design, but I'm tired of guessing.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 9:07 pm 
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Ohh maybe I read it wrong, sorry!

I can easily get you a full parts list! Give me until friday to do it tho. This week is terrible with work!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:29 pm 
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gtrplaya101 wrote:
Ohh maybe I read it wrong, sorry!

Eh, who knows? My main criteria for it being right is that it fits the PCB pads. :lol:

gtrplaya101 wrote:
I can easily get you a full parts list! Give me until friday to do it tho. This week is terrible with work!

I'm in no rush at all.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 3:04 am 
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you can use the relais you bought, CJ.

relais have two power ratings. one for the switch side (contact rating) and one for the coil (which is your foot on a 3pdt switch).
the coil always needs to be rated for the supply voltage (usually 9V DC for guitar pedals). the switching value is for us guitar signal junkies not important since the voltages we work with are not even close to the max ratings...

the 1A @ 120VAC / 2A @ 30VDC is the rating of the switch side. further down you see the coil data where you see nominal voltage (VDC). next to the order number 009-M it says that it is rated for 9VDC which will perfectly fit our application.

and since it fits in the holes you are good to go! :lol:

I don't recommend using 5V relais on 9V. this is kind of having an elephant steping your 3pdt switched pedals. this is definitely not a reliable solution!

here is the link to the corect relais for 9V use (or the one you got CJ)

cheers

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:12 am 
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this is just what i was thinking about doing. i always wondered how some pedals dont have the old boring 3pdt switch im def ganna try this.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 12:16 pm 
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gtrplaya101 wrote:
Lol, you would need a key to turn on your pedal!!!

Image

any idea on how to use 1 key switch to activate the actual footswitch, meaning you wont be able to activate the pedal (footswitch) without turning the key switch first, and still have it true bypass. would you use 2 of these relay bases switches?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 1:22 am 
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bump. is there a parts list for this yet? what is the value of R1?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:17 am 
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gtrplayer is working on the parts list. But since we're in the holiday season, I'd give him a couple weeks to come up with something. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 3:40 pm 
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mafew129 wrote:
any idea on how to use 1 key switch to activate the actual footswitch, meaning you wont be able to activate the pedal (footswitch) without turning the key switch first, and still have it true bypass. would you use 2 of these relay bases switches?


if you want something like a master key switch for your pedal, that it wont work without the key, you could just wire such a key switch (maybe a bit smaller :wink: ) to break the power supply to the board. bypass would still work but not the effect circuit.
is this kind of what you were asking?

R1 is 470 R (see page 1 of this thread for further information on it)

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 4:37 pm 
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adi wrote:
mafew129 wrote:
any idea on how to use 1 key switch to activate the actual footswitch, meaning you wont be able to activate the pedal (footswitch) without turning the key switch first, and still have it true bypass. would you use 2 of these relay bases switches?


if you want something like a master key switch for your pedal, that it wont work without the key, you could just wire such a key switch (maybe a bit smaller :wink: ) to break the power supply to the board. bypass would still work but not the effect circuit.
is this kind of what you were asking?

R1 is 470 R (see page 1 of this thread for further information on it)

yes thats exactly what i was thinking. never thought of breaking the power thought. And he said R1 depends on the voltage and i didnt seem like it was set in stone, but i suppose ill give it a try anyhoo.

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