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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:42 am 
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Board Layout:
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Board Traces:
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Wiring Diagram:
Image

Bill of Materials:
http://efxdigitaldesign.com/Klone%20BOM.pdf


Last edited by gtrplaya101 on Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:49 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:51 am 
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Gain 1 & 2 - Tone and Vol pots are all aligned the same.

When the board is oriented as in the pic above, the holes are:

G-1 (3-2-1), G-2 (3-2-1), Tone (3-2-1), Vol (3-2-1)

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 12:45 pm 
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Is the CLR on the board? I do see a 4k7, but it's kinda far from the LED.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 12:47 pm 
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The CLR is the 3K9 directly North of the A-3 pad.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 12:57 pm 
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Cool, thanks. Next question: the whole charge pump vs. diodes thing in the other thread got really confusing. Would someone do me the kindness of just telling me which parts to order? I promise it's due to ignorance and not laziness. OK, 10% laziness. :oops:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 1:15 pm 
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MAX1044, TC1044SCP or ICL7660SCPA will do the trick.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 1:17 pm 
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Diodes are any germanium you have in your parts bin. I socket the position, and I have heard of all kinds of germs being used. Try 'em all.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 1:24 pm 
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So all that talk about diode voltage and different charge pumps and making sure they play nice together—not so crucial?

(Funny thing is, if I'd never read that other thread, I'd follow the BOM exactly and it probably would be fine.) :)

(Also, sorry to dominate this thread so far!)

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 1:25 pm 
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I think the question above is about the Zener Diodes. I truly feel the 9.1 Volt Zener is the best bet. I see no real reason to use any other. Why use a 12 volt?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 1:35 pm 
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dcountry13 wrote:
I think the question above is about the Zener Diodes. I truly feel the 9.1 Volt Zener is the best bet. I see no real reason to use any other. Why use a 12 volt?


1n4742

Believe it or not, my local Rat Shack has these.

DC is totally correct. 7660 and 1044 will BOTH work with 1N4739, but a 12V[1N4742] Zener will cook 1044, so why even mess with any other zener.


***Edited for clarity.***

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Last edited by crbmoa on Wed Mar 14, 2012 3:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 2:06 pm 
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Hey SJ, maybe the whole Max and TC1044 thing confused you. Bottom line is if you use the 9v zener you need not worry about the Max cooking past 9v (in case your PS is not well regulated). Basically the TC can handle more voltage and if your PS is not regulated that could come in handy. But with the protection diode you sort of check that issue at the door........if I understand all the correctly.

Boy, can't view photobucket here at work. Would love to use their ink to print the wiring diagram instead of my ink at home :lol: Woe is me.....

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Last edited by TNblueshawk on Wed Mar 14, 2012 2:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 2:06 pm 
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crbmoa wrote:
dcountry13 wrote:
I think the question above is about the Zener Diodes. I truly feel the 9.1 Volt Zener is the best bet. I see no real reason to use any other. Why use a 12 volt?


1n4742

Believe it or not, my local Rat Shack has these.

DC is totally correct. 7660 and 1044 will BOTH work with 1N4742, but a 12V Zener will cook 1044, so why even mess with any other zener.


Just to verify....the Zener you want is a 1N4739 9.1 Volt Zener

A 1N4742 is a 12 volt.

A bit of reference.....

http://www.vishay.com/docs/85816/1n4728a.pdf

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 3:43 pm 
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A schematic and corresponding PCB layout diagram labeled with the component numbers would be very useful....

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 3:48 pm 
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dcountry13 wrote:
crbmoa wrote:
dcountry13 wrote:
I think the question above is about the Zener Diodes. I truly feel the 9.1 Volt Zener is the best bet. I see no real reason to use any other. Why use a 12 volt?


1n4742

Believe it or not, my local Rat Shack has these.

DC is totally correct. 7660 and 1044 will BOTH work with 1N4742, but a 12V Zener will cook 1044, so why even mess with any other zener.


Just to verify....the Zener you want is a 1N4739 9.1 Volt Zener

A 1N4742 is a 12 volt.

A bit of reference.....

http://www.vishay.com/docs/85816/1n4728a.pdf


What did I miss??

If I need to use a 1N4739 then WHY does the BOM say 1N4742?? :?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:14 pm 
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The BOM represents the way the circuit was designed originally. Switching to a 9.1v diode is a mod that has been created and makes more sense in this application however my BOM reflects if you want to build it to exact specs. Does it make any difference sonically? nope.... all it is, is a fuse. Do you want a 12v "fuse" or a 9v "fuse". The original used a 12v but a 9v makes more practical sense. Don't want a fuse, Pull the sucker out and put a jumper in its place. Done that several times on my own builds.

For the clipping diodes, go germ. Grab a bunch and experiment to find what you like. Its DIY after all :-)


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:54 pm 
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gtrplaya101 wrote:
The BOM represents the way the circuit was designed originally. Switching to a 9.1v diode is a mod that has been created and makes more sense in this application however my BOM reflects if you want to build it to exact specs. Does it make any difference sonically? nope.... all it is, is a fuse. Do you want a 12v "fuse" or a 9v "fuse". The original used a 12v but a 9v makes more practical sense. Don't want a fuse, Pull the sucker out and put a jumper in its place. Done that several times on my own builds.

For the clipping diodes, go germ. Grab a bunch and experiment to find what you like. Its DIY after all :-)


Thanks, playa! 8)

Any particular germs you fancy?? :?:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 5:43 pm 
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gtrplaya101 wrote:
The BOM represents the way the circuit was designed originally. Switching to a 9.1v diode is a mod that has been created and makes more sense in this application however my BOM reflects if you want to build it to exact specs. Does it make any difference sonically? nope.... all it is, is a fuse. Do you want a 12v "fuse" or a 9v "fuse". The original used a 12v but a 9v makes more practical sense. Don't want a fuse, Pull the sucker out and put a jumper in its place. Done that several times on my own builds.

For the clipping diodes, go germ. Grab a bunch and experiment to find what you like. Its DIY after all :-)

If you jumper it your putting V+ to ground.

Think you mean leave the spot (Zener) empty.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:07 pm 
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haha yeah, sorry about that. Man I am tired. LONG LONG days at work. I think 50+ hours is catching up with me. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:14 pm 
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Would it be possible to have the schematic, to be able to know where some components goes, like tant and other capacitor?

Thanks!

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After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:49 pm 
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Yeah I can get a schematic but it is gonna be a while before I get a chance. I am swamped with work. Maybe Chris could post a good photo of his circuit board so you can see how he placed everything.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:05 pm 
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Pictures are worth a thousand words.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:30 pm 
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Well...it's not telling me more than the BOM or layout, what i need to know is wich cap is part of the tone stack.

I don't want to socket everything, i know what i must do, just need to know where to put it. :)

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After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:38 pm 
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Is it just me, or is the layout posted at the top, and the picture one post up from here just a bit different? I see a few caps that look to be in different locations.
-P

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:53 pm 
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Its just you, same thing :mrgreen:

Added the traces diagram above in the intro post. That should help identify which components are which. If you want a schematic in the meantime, just look around. There are tons of Klon schematics laying around.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:18 pm 
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Now I know I must be right. Look at the 2 diagrams above. The one with traces is different than the one with pots. I mean, they are the same circuit, but a different layout. The 390N cap is where there are some differences. My eyes do not deceive me!
-P

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