The Klone V1, in true Centaurian fashion, is configured such that the first stage of the first opamp functions as a buffer which is
always in the signal path, whether the main effect circuit is engaged or bypassed. In general, this is fine, but may cause undesirable interactions with other pedals under some circumstances, so I thought I'd look into what would be needed to convert the pedal to a true bypass configuration. Using
THIS SCHEMATIC that I found at freestompboxes.org, I modified 'Playa's wiring layout diagram for true bypass operation. My layout substitutes the customary 3PDT stompswitch for the DPDT (or 3PDT with one column of lugs unused), and eliminates a handful of components on the PCB (three resistors and an electrolytic cap) as well as the two 68K resistors on the footswitch. You also skip three wire connections to the board (C1, A1 and OUT). The only new addition (besides the 3PDT & its wiring and changing the input jack from a mono to stereo) is a 2.2M resistor between the circuit input and ground. I opted to mount this between lugs 2 and 5 on the footswitch to avoid having to stick it on the board somewhere, but the latter can certainly be done, if you prefer. My Klone V1 true bypass layout diagram is posted below. Also posted is a photo of 'Playa's PCB with the omitted components and wire connections shown in red. Keep in mind that the final component configuration on his PCB is slightly different than the one shown in his & my layout diagrams.
I've had our own dcountry13 look the diagram over, since he's quite familiar with the Klon circuit in several of its forms, and he believes everything looks correct. I bought two of 'Playa's PCBs, and my intention is to build one "stock" and the other as true bypass per this diagram. I will edit this post once I've actually verified it, but in the mean time, if you decide to try it,
you do so at your own risk.UPDATE 3/31/12: I was over at Madbean's site looking at the archived instructions for his discontinued Sunking board and found the directions for converting his v.3 board to true bypass. Lo & behold, Brian says to leave out exactly those same five resistors and one cap, add a pull-down resistor, and leave the analogous eyelets on the PCB unconnected. So while the above modification still isn't verified for the Klone V1 board, it sure is looking awfully good! Thanks, Brian....
UPDATE 4/7/12: VERIFIED this date by Grind Customs and Saxoftenest. Thanks, guys!!
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- also charge pump devices (like this one) tend to consume batteries very quickly too.
