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ckyvick
PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 4:09 pm 
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I had made a klon and an owner of a real one had heard mine. He said he could not tell a difference, even thou I didn't have any tantalum caps in the circuit. I did use madbean's sunking part list and sort through mouser buying only high quality components thou so that may have helped :twisted:

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Comfort Player
PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 4:51 pm 
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Any update on the shipping of the boards ? Got all my parts in and I have an itchy solder finger :mrgreen:

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spin wrote:
A lot on here are using the one handed strippers. They seem to work well, but I just assume use the ol' trusty.
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patrickbrose
PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:02 pm 
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Yeah, I got an email a week ago that said it shipped, but no tracking info (not expecting any), but I figure it should have been here by now. Someone else mailed me a different board yesterday and it arrived today...What's up?
-P

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Actually I believe Powerpop sent it to me...I put one of his fuzzies in mine.
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Comfort Player
PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:31 pm 
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patrickbrose wrote:
Yeah, I got an email a week ago that said it shipped, but no tracking info (not expecting any), but I figure it should have been here by now. Someone else mailed me a different board yesterday and it arrived today...What's up?
-P


Yes, I got an email on the 12th. gtrplayer said they would be slow getting out so I was just wondering if any were hitting the streets yet.

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spin wrote:
A lot on here are using the one handed strippers. They seem to work well, but I just assume use the ol' trusty.
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gtrplaya101
PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:02 pm 
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Unless you ordered 5+ or are international the remaining boards went out today!

Boards will start arriving within the next few days!

Thanks!

For international orders I have to fill out those stupid customs forms which are taking forever.
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Comfort Player
PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 9:03 pm 
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gtrplaya101 wrote:
Unless you ordered 5+ or are international the remaining boards went out today!

Boards will start arriving within the next few days!

Thanks!

For international orders I have to fill out those stupid customs forms which are taking forever.



Awesome Thanks for the update !!!

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spin wrote:
A lot on here are using the one handed strippers. They seem to work well, but I just assume use the ol' trusty.


Last edited by Comfort Player on Tue Mar 20, 2012 10:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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GrindCustoms
PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 10:08 pm 
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Aww......... :|

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After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.
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FF_Pedals
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 8:45 am 
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This looks so tasty:

Image

I think there's something wrong with me, it makes me feel like a toddler, I want to put it in my mouth :lol: .
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geodr
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 1:53 pm 
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Okay, got some noob questions on the BOM - looking at ordering from Mammoth Elec

1. What are the values for the resistors listed as 1k5, 3k9, 4k7, 5k1, and 560R ?

2. Which capacitors to get - Nichicon Electrolytic (what voltage?), Xicon Ceramic, or Polyester Film? The pics look like a mix of all three.

3. Which diode for Z1 - 1n4742A or 1n4739A?

4. Do TL072CP and MAXX1044CPA work for the IC's specified as TL072 and MAXX1044?

5. Is there a part to socket the IC's into?

6. Can someone indicate what Mammoth part #'s for the pots?

7. Should the switch be 3PDT, not DPDT?

8. 1590B or 1590BB enclosure?

Thanks for your help!
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JohnL
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:06 pm 
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I can help with some of this:

geodr wrote:
Okay, got some noob questions on the BOM - looking at ordering from Mammoth Elec

1. What are the values for the resistors listed as 1k5, 3k9, 4k7, 5k1, and 560R ? k represents the decimal point so 1k5 is 1.5kohms

2. Which capacitors to get - Nichicon Electrolytic (what voltage?), Xicon Ceramic, or Polyester Film? The pics look like a mix of all three. You will need a mix of at least electrolytic and either ceramic and film. Box caps fit easily in this board.

3. Which diode for Z1 - 1n4742A or 1n4739A?

4. Do TL072CP and MAXX1044CPA work for the IC's specified as TL072 and MAXX1044? For these last two questions search this and the order thread, it is explained.

5. Is there a part to socket the IC's into? You need to buy a socket.


Thanks for your help!
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TNblueshawk
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:11 pm 
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1. Not sure I understand your confusion? Is it the "k" in the middle? 1k5 means 1.5k. The 560R means 560ohms which is less than 1k so you deal with ohms only.
2. I get the cheapest caps but that's just me. They just need to be at least 16v. If all they have is 50v in a particular value then that is fine too. If it says "uf" that means electrolytics. If it says "n" that means flim caps. Your choice to either get flim "chicklett's" or box caps. Boxes are more expensive. If it says "pf" that means picofarards = very small values. You want the orange little ceramic caps like this http://www.mammothelectronics.com/category-s/34.htm
3. Get the 4739 if youi are going with the Max1044 for sure. But, get it anyway even if you go with the higher voltage IC
4. Yes
5. This http://www.mammothelectronics.com/category-s/109.htm
6. This for the dual gang pot http://www.mammothelectronics.com/category-s/102.htm the Linear taper. For the other Linera pots this http://www.mammothelectronics.com/RV16A ... -100-b.htm
7. A DPDT is all you need if you are building it to specs, ie. a buffer in there. If true bypass then you need a 3PDT
8. I put mine into a 1590BB. I don't like tight spaces for anything but one thing and it sure ain't pedals. Actually I don't think it will fit into a 1590B but I might be mistaken. For someone new I would not even try it.

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powerpopguy wrote:
warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


Last edited by TNblueshawk on Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Comfort Player
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:13 pm 
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And a little more....

JohnL wrote:
I can help with some of this:

geodr wrote:
Okay, got some noob questions on the BOM - looking at ordering from Mammoth Elec

1. What are the values for the resistors listed as 1k5, 3k9, 4k7, 5k1, and 560R ? k represents the decimal point so 1k5 is 1.5kohms. R = Ohms so 560R is 560 ohms

2. Which capacitors to get - Nichicon Electrolytic (what voltage?), Xicon Ceramic, or Polyester Film? The pics look like a mix of all three. You will need a mix of at least electrolytic and either ceramic and film. Box caps fit easily in this board. Make sure the Electrolytic are 35v or higher

3. Which diode for Z1 - 1n4742A or 1n4739A?

4. Do TL072CP and MAXX1044CPA work for the IC's specified as TL072 and MAXX1044? For these last two questions search this and the order thread, it is explained.

5. Is there a part to socket the IC's into? You need to buy a socket. Like this one http://www.mammothelectronics.com/620-D ... 0-dip8.htm


Thanks for your help!

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spin wrote:
A lot on here are using the one handed strippers. They seem to work well, but I just assume use the ol' trusty.
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TNblueshawk
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:17 pm 
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If you want to see the guts of some use the search button and type in "Sunking" in the showoff builds thread. You will find mine and Comfortplayers, his being the most recent. In fact you can just view his now in there. Nevermind on mine. I was wiped out on an SQL meltdown.

Now the boards we are getting I'm sure will be a different layout but at least you get a visual of the wiring and parts.

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powerpopguy wrote:
warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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geodr
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:38 pm 
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Wow, you guys are fast and a tremendous help!

About the switch, the confusing thing is the wiring diamgram (post #1 of this thread) and the pics show a 3PDT, and the BOM lists a DPDT. Looked at comfortplayers sunking build thread and he built it true bypass. So what's the popular consensus here - keep the original design w/ buffer and use DPDT, or go true bypass w/ 3PDT? If the former, does anyone have a wiring diagram using the DPDT switch?
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Comfort Player
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:40 pm 
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geodr wrote:
Wow, you guys are fast and a tremendous help!

About the switch, the confusing thing is the wiring diamgram (post #1 of this thread) and the pics show a 3PDT, and the BOM lists a DPDT. Looked at comfortplayers sunking build thread and he built it true bypass. So what's the popular consensus here - keep the original design w/ buffer and use DPDT, or go true bypass w/ 3PDT? If the former, does anyone have a wiring diagram using the DPDT switch?


If you notice in post #1 although he used a 3pdt only the outer lugs are used making it basically a DPDT.

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spin wrote:
A lot on here are using the one handed strippers. They seem to work well, but I just assume use the ol' trusty.
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TNblueshawk
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:46 pm 
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Good catch CP. I glossed over that.

Sent you a PM Geo.

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powerpopguy wrote:
warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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TNblueshawk
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:54 pm 
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Is there an update to the BOM or did I miss it?

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powerpopguy wrote:
warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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crbmoa
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:57 pm 
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I didn't have a DPDT on hand at the time, so I used 2/3rds of a 3PDT. :mrgreen:

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BYOC: So easy even a drunk can do it! :lol:


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Comfort Player
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 3:17 pm 
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crbmoa wrote:
I didn't have a DPDT on hand at the time, so I used 2/3rds of a 3PDT. :mrgreen:


You tricky devil :twisted:

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spin wrote:
A lot on here are using the one handed strippers. They seem to work well, but I just assume use the ol' trusty.
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mxsix
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 3:23 pm 
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crbmoa wrote:
I didn't have a DPDT on hand at the time, so I used 2/3rds of a 3PDT. :mrgreen:

Once I didn't have a SPST so I used 2/9ths of a 3PDT :lol:

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old_metal_head
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 8:25 pm 
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Done...


Attachments:
DSCF2445.JPG
DSCF2445.JPG [ 186.62 KiB | Viewed 14692 times ]
DSCF2444.JPG
DSCF2444.JPG [ 210.76 KiB | Viewed 14690 times ]
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mafew129
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 8:41 pm 
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old_metal_head wrote:
Done...

A winnar is you

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BH4RJ
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geodr
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 8:44 pm 
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Comfort Player wrote:
And a little more....

JohnL wrote:
I can help with some of this:

geodr wrote:
Okay, got some noob questions on the BOM - looking at ordering from Mammoth Elec

1. What are the values for the resistors listed as 1k5, 3k9, 4k7, 5k1, and 560R ? k represents the decimal point so 1k5 is 1.5kohms. R = Ohms so 560R is 560 ohms

2. Which capacitors to get - Nichicon Electrolytic (what voltage?), Xicon Ceramic, or Polyester Film? The pics look like a mix of all three. You will need a mix of at least electrolytic and either ceramic and film. Box caps fit easily in this board. Make sure the Electrolytic are 35v or higher

3. Which diode for Z1 - 1n4742A or 1n4739A?

4. Do TL072CP and MAXX1044CPA work for the IC's specified as TL072 and MAXX1044? For these last two questions search this and the order thread, it is explained.

5. Is there a part to socket the IC's into? You need to buy a socket. Like this one http://www.mammothelectronics.com/620-D ... 0-dip8.htm


Thanks for your help!


Are the TL072CP and MAX1044CPA IC's both 8 pin? No pics on mammoth
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old_metal_head
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 8:45 pm 
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mafew129 wrote:
A winnar is you


me is wiener
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GrindCustoms
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 8:55 pm 
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Sick! Yours is built before i received my boards..........!

Congrats, super nice built! 8)



Geodr, yes they are 8pins

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Comfort Player wrote:
After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.
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