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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 7:37 am 
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JohnL wrote:
So I do not have the BOM here at home and really don't want to do the half hour plus round trip into work to see if I have it on my work computer, so does anyone have the BOM so I know what diode goes where?

D1, D2 = 1N4001
D3, D4 = 1N270 (or 1N60 or 1N34A or BAT41)

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 7:43 am 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
JohnL wrote:
So I do not have the BOM here at home and really don't want to do the half hour plus round trip into work to see if I have it on my work computer, so does anyone have the BOM so I know what diode goes where?

D1, D2 = 1N4001
D3, D4 = 1N270 (or 1N60 or 1N34A or BAT41)


Thanks.


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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 8:08 am 
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Crap, out of 1n4001's. I doubt 4002's would make a difference.....

Found some. :D

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 10:48 am 
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The values screened on the white boards are all correct, right? Just making sure.. :)

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 1:27 pm 
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anotherfx wrote:
The values screened on the white boards are all correct, right? Just making sure.. :)


Yup! They're all good :)

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Comfort Player wrote:
After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 1:51 pm 
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Cool. Thank you. :)

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 9:35 am 
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Does the wattage of the 9.1V zener matter at all in this circuit? I found some 0.5w and 1.3w in my stash..

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 6:06 am 
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anotherfx wrote:
Does the wattage of the 9.1V zener matter at all in this circuit? I found some 0.5w and 1.3w in my stash..


Don't see how it would although size could be an issue?

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warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 4:49 am 
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The link to the BOM is dead. Can someone let me have a copy?

Actually I only need to know which diodes correspond to which numbers on the PCB of that's easier.

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Morgan wrote:
I'd definitely end up gluing my hand to my crotch if I tried that. :shock: :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 5:46 am 
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hogharry wrote:
The link to the BOM is dead. Can someone let me have a copy?

Actually I only need to know which diodes correspond to which numbers on the PCB of that's easier.


duhvoodooman wrote:

D1, D2 = 1N4001
D3, D4 = 1N270 (or 1N60 or 1N34A or BAT41)

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 7:39 am 
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Thanks, I thought so from the various pics. I've just seen DVM's post. :oops:

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Morgan wrote:
I'd definitely end up gluing my hand to my crotch if I tried that. :shock: :lol:


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:23 pm 
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hogharry wrote:
Thanks, I thought so from the various pics. I've just seen DVM's post. :oops:


Hey Graham I can email from work Monday if you just want the whole enchilada?

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powerpopguy wrote:
warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 5:34 am 
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TNblueshawk wrote:
Hey Graham I can email from work Monday if you just want the whole enchilada?


That would be handy, thanks John.

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Morgan wrote:
I'd definitely end up gluing my hand to my crotch if I tried that. :shock: :lol:


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 11:54 am 
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Planning to do a true bypass mod on a V2 board. Am I right in thinking that the components to omit are the resistors in the same positions as the V1 board and the 4u7 cap next to the 390pf?

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Morgan wrote:
I'd definitely end up gluing my hand to my crotch if I tried that. :shock: :lol:


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 11:57 am 
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hogharry wrote:
Planning to do a true bypass mod on a V2 board. Am I right in thinking that the components to omit are the resistors in the same positions as the V1 board and the 4u7 cap next to the 390pf?


Yes Sir Yes!

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Comfort Player wrote:
After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 12:27 pm 
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Thanks Grindy, you should know! :)

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Morgan wrote:
I'd definitely end up gluing my hand to my crotch if I tried that. :shock: :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 7:58 am 
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ckyvick wrote:
I had made a klon and an owner of a real one had heard mine. He said he could not tell a difference, even thou I didn't have any tantalum caps in the circuit. I did use madbean's sunking part list and sort through mouser buying only high quality components thou so that may have helped :twisted:

Yeah and I ended up with it, loved it, ended up trading it to a guy who works with the "Newsboys" and it had the chance to make it on there board, it didn't though.............

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 7:41 pm 
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The bill of materials pdf link is not working. Any one have a link that works? My computer crashed and I am trying to regain all of my lost documents for builds. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 11:25 pm 
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Uploaded a zip for ya!
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15534791/Klone%20v1.zip


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 9:08 am 
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ok, buffered circuits are pretty new to me, so i don't want to mess up the wiring.

is that a 68k resistor between lugs 4 and 5 of the footswitch, then another 68k resistor between lugs 5 and 6? (lugs 7&8 and 8&9 on a 3pdt)

i'm guessing on the dual gang pot, the top row on the wiring diagram as the top row on the pot, closest to the shaft?

and lastly (for now :oops: ) what is the draw of this circuit? is it worth putting a battery in? and is there any difference with battery wiring in a buffered circuit? i really need to replace my godlyke adapter. maybe i'll grab a cheap 1spot.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 10:29 am 
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Funhouse42 wrote:
is that a 68k resistor between lugs 4 and 5 of the footswitch, then another 68k resistor between lugs 5 and 6? (lugs 7&8 and 8&9 on a 3pdt)
Yes, that's the correct resistor placement. But you can avoid the hassle by going with the true bypass wiring instead. You just won't have the buffer active when in bypass, which many people actually prefer, since it can cause issues with other pedals in the signal chain under some conditions.

Funhouse42 wrote:
i'm guessing on the dual gang pot, the top row on the wiring diagram as the top row on the pot, closest to the shaft?
Doesn't matter which of the pot gangs is soldered to which of the Gain 1 or 2 eyelet rows--same resistance and sweep on both of the pot gangs.

Funhouse42 wrote:
and lastly (for now :oops: ) what is the draw of this circuit? is it worth putting a battery in? and is there any difference with battery wiring in a buffered circuit?
I don't know the draw, but it's probably pretty healthy, with the charge pump to 18V. From what I've read, a battery will work fine but it's not generally recommended for this pedal service.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:49 am 
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If anyone is interested in adding a buffer/true bypass switch to your Klone, I've posted a layout here. Enjoy!

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 8:57 pm 
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I know it is an old thread, but the Bill of Materials link is dead. Does anyone have a copy? Thanks!


Ryan


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 9:23 pm 
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RMo wrote:
I know it is an old thread, but the Bill of Materials link is dead. Does anyone have a copy? Thanks!


Ryan


I have one - PM me your email address and I'll send it to you


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 4:42 am 
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Kunfuz also linked to his Dropboxed copies a few posts above.

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