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 Post subject: Neptune - Build Guide
PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 3:03 pm 
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Here it is, folks.

Please read the damn notes. It will save you a lot of time. More importantly, it will save ME a lot of time if YOU read the notes. :lol: RTFM, folks.

I'm also posting a straight list of parts values because people seem to not be able to extract that from either the schematic or the build document. :roll:

Attachment:
Neptune.zip [226.74 KiB]
Downloaded 3575 times


UPDATED on 8 Aug 2012 - Note the suggested value change for R9, which sets max feedback.

BOM - Neptune Delay V1-3

Part Value
C1 22n
C2 100p
C3 1u
C4 100p
C5 1u
C6 1u
C7 10n
C8 2n2
C9 2n2
C10 10n
C11 1u
C12 47n
C13 22n
C14 47n
C15 100n
C16 100n
C17 100n
C18 100n
C19 47u
C20 100u
C21 47u
C22 100u
C23 100u
LDR LDR
R1 1M
R2 150K
R3 330K
R4 22K
R5 10K
R6 1K
R7 22K
R8 22K
R9 1K (suggest changing to 10K)
R10 10K
R11 10K
R12 22K
R13 10K
R14 1K
R15 10K
R16 1K
R17 18K
R18 15K
R19 470R
R20 10K
R21 10K
D1 LED
D2 4001
IC1 PT2399
IC2 TL072
REG 7805 / 78L05
SW1 NO MOMENTARY
TIME B25K
MIX B50K
DECAY B5K
FB B50K

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Last edited by culturejam on Wed Aug 08, 2012 6:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 3:30 pm 
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Awesome, i'll make sure to post some noob questions!

Thanks alot!

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After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 3:41 pm 
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Shit, that's a lot of parts for a very small board!

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I want Pterodactyl sounds dammit, not a nice little analog sustain.


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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 3:51 pm 
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CaptainPeyote wrote:
Shit, that's a lot of parts for a very small board!


Also what i tought.........., must be double faced......need components on both side.....

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After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 5:41 pm 
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It's not *that* small: 2.25" x 2"

I don't think anyone will be putting this in a 1590A. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 12:23 am 
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Oh yeah, I ordered this too :lol:
Thanks for the reminder Forrest drunk! :wink:

Help the Fez
If anyone find a sealed optocoupler that fits on Tayda, plz let me know :D

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Yeah, an extra large washer has saved my chunky butt a few times after big chubby tore things up some.


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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 9:41 am 
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fyi, R20 on the build guide shows 10J. I know it's 10K thanks to the parts list posted above, but thought you should know in case it leads to confusion for others. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 2:37 pm 
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yeah, that's cause it's supposed to be a 10 JILLION ohm resistor :)

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Muad'zin wrote:
I want Pterodactyl sounds dammit, not a nice little analog sustain.


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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 7:33 am 
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No one find anything for me, the tayda junkie? :wink:

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p_wats wrote:
Yeah, an extra large washer has saved my chunky butt a few times after big chubby tore things up some.


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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 9:02 am 
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Kunfuz wrote:
No one find anything for me, the tayda junkie? :wink:

I'm not sure what you are asking.

Tayda doesn't sell optocouplers, as far as I know. But their LDRs are perfect for this, along with a 3mm LED.

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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 11:18 am 
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Then I shall roll my own sensai effsan :P
Frank lo!

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p_wats wrote:
Yeah, an extra large washer has saved my chunky butt a few times after big chubby tore things up some.


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 5:56 pm 
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So for the LED-LDR combo, I assume it doesnt need to be taped since its in an enclosure, but how far away from the LDR should the LED be? Would a clear ultra bright be too much if used?


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 7:43 pm 
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never seen the datasheet for the Tayda LDR's, but folks often have the best luck with 3mm yellow or red LED's. Distance shouldn't matter too much, maybe a mm or two?

I've got the Tayda LDR's, so I'll try and report back when I build this thing.

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Muad'zin wrote:
I want Pterodactyl sounds dammit, not a nice little analog sustain.


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 7:59 pm 
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I used Tayda LDRs when I was breadboarding this, and that's what's inside of the prototype pedal. I used 3mm diffused (not water-clear) LEDs. I don't think color matters on those. It shouldn't.

And no, there is no need to tape them up or use shrink tubing. Once the pedal lid is on and the jacks have plugs in them, it's dark in there. ;)

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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 10:40 pm 
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Tape or shrinking tube is more Mojo though :wink:

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p_wats wrote:
Yeah, an extra large washer has saved my chunky butt a few times after big chubby tore things up some.


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 2:26 pm 
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Kunfuz wrote:
Tape or shrinking tube is more Mojo though :wink:


Especially if you paint the tubing like PPG's "none more mojo" pedal :mrgreen:

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warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 1:26 pm 
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I know you said you didnt use a water clear LED...I have my board populated and am awaiting the momentary switch...but I DID use a water clear LED...should I swap it out now? Or will it be ok?

thanks :)

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 1:58 pm 
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It's not going to hurt anything doc. I can tell you I recently built a delay and had a water clear in there. Couldn't really get things going. Put a diffused in there and bam all is well. Sort of worked counterintuitive, in my mind anyway, as I figured the water clear is so bright it will work.

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warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 4:16 pm 
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Any sort of LED will work.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 5:05 pm 
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sweet, thanks guys.

i got this thing fired up and it sounds good...gets outta control kinda easy (repeats go forever and start sounding insane). I have a trimpot for r17, just havent swapped out the resister yet, so maybe that will help it.

whats the momentary switch do? Mine seems to do nothing? Might have ordered the wrong one (https://www.mammothelectronics.com/Prod ... e=800-1003)

thanks for the help!

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:05 pm 
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the momentary switch is the 'freak the F out' button....basically


CJ/somebody else will have to explain what (technically) it does and how, but I will say I got the same switch, also from Mammoth, and mine works like the one CJ did in his video.....find his thread in the show-off section, I think his video is in there



And yes, the repeats are crazy cool

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:35 pm 
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watched the demo...mine definitely doesnt do that...will take a look. thanks ;)

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 6:58 am 
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When the switch is depressed, the delay time drops to very short, and then slowly returns to the longer time designated by the Time pot. The Decay pot controls how slow the return to the longer time is.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 10:35 pm 
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My momentary switch doesn't seem to do much of anything. I checked the switch and it's not faulty...anything in particular I should check first? Can post pics if needed.

thanks for your help!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 10:47 pm 
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When you close the switch, what does the LED do?

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