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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:05 pm 
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This thing really is too simple for a full build doc. :lol:

Schematic and layout image are below. Here's the parts list:

R1 - 1M
R2 - 10K
R3 - 4K7
C1 - 100n
C2 - 100n
C3 - 47uF
D1 - 1N914
D2 - 1N4001
Q1 - MPSA13
VOL - A100K

Notes:
• This is just a Bazz Fuss with the stomp switch on the board. So any mods you come across for that circuit will work with this PCB. Here's a good starting point: http://home-wrecker.com/bazz.html

• R1 (pulldown resistor) and D2 (polarity protection) are optional

• R3 is the current-limiting resistor (CLR) for the LED. You may omit if you want to wire it up manually.

• There are pads on the board for the LED. So all you have to do is run wires from these pads to wherever you place the indicator LED. Or you could solder the LED directly to the board (assuming you drill the box for it).

• The input and output jack pads are positioned so that they will be on the right side if the stomp switch is soldered on the same side as the components. It will also work just fine if you want to solder the switch on the opposite side of the components, but the in/out pads will be on opposite sides of where the jacks are. If this doesn't make sense, just wait till you get the board and you'll see what I mean. :mrgreen:

• There are two extra ground pads. I put them there for use with the in/out jack ground lugs (sleeve). You do not have to use them. The only ground pad that needs to be connected is the one marked "GND".


(you can safely ignore all the bullshit in the bottom left corner. That's the switch. :))
Attachment:
Onesie_Schematic.png
Onesie_Schematic.png [ 4.13 KiB | Viewed 12344 times ]




Attachment:
Onesie_Layout.png
Onesie_Layout.png [ 18.73 KiB | Viewed 12344 times ]

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:31 pm 
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Thanks! 8)

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:09 am 
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Laverly.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 3:11 am 
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Thanks for the schematic Forrest! I like the switching. What eagle library are u using?
Gaussmarkovs? Or you own rolled?

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 6:43 am 
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Thanks for the info! ;)

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After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:11 am 
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Kunfuz wrote:
What eagle library are u using?
Gaussmarkovs? Or you own rolled?

I started with one of the 3PDTs in the GM library, and then modified it to be spaced correctly for standard solder-lug switches.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 12:47 am 
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Senile animal is I, is this fabbed already, and shipped? :| :lol:

Edit for extreme stupidity:
culturejam wrote:
Just got shipment notification for the boards. Should have them on Wednesday, and I'll start shipping on Thursday.

:oops: :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:22 pm 
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Speaking of extreme stupidity...

I didn't read the note above about the in/out pads being read from the bottom or whatever. I was all proud of myself for doing my first 1590A build in under 30 minutes (!) when I plugged it in and... nothing. That is until i switched the cords around. Then I had lots of delicious, backwards fuzz. :oops:

So if you're populating it like me, with the component values visible, remember to switch the wires. And CJ, if you do another run of these... you might consider switching that around. You know, for the dummies like me who don't read instructions. Just sayin'. :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 1:15 pm 
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OJ simpson, or output jack peyote? :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 8:51 pm 
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Are there any resistor/cap mods for this circuit that you know of? I'd love to add a DPDT switch to this to change between a default/modded value 8)

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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 9:01 pm 
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mxsix wrote:
Are there any resistor/cap mods for this circuit that you know of? I'd love to add a DPDT switch to this to change between a default/modded value 8)


With some 2pdt switch you can go long way on this built.

You could hook up the switch to 2 different trannies, MPSA13 and 2N5089, i tried the 5089 and it's a natural born chugger in that layout!

You could also hook the switch to the input or output cap, really easy to perform aswell.

I have'nt did these yet, but it's what i had planned......

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After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 9:47 am 
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Built one stock and another one with Tone/Volume control that I posted for the Dead Easy Dirt project. That one we'll call the 3Z :)

both sound totally bitchin' but the 3Z allows me to run the Fuzz Volume all the way up and control output with the other volume control. This seems to bring in a tad more high end and that's a good thing because the pedal is dark-sounding. The tone control simply rolls off treble and is mildly useful.

The 3Z stays on my board for now :)

Mike


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 11:25 am 
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mmarsh wrote:
Built one stock and another one with Tone/Volume control that I posted for the Dead Easy Dirt project. That one we'll call the 3Z :)

both sound totally bitchin' but the 3Z allows me to run the Fuzz Volume all the way up and control output with the other volume control. This seems to bring in a tad more high end and that's a good thing because the pedal is dark-sounding. The tone control simply rolls off treble and is mildly useful.

I looked this up in the Dead Easy Dirt thread, but I'm not much for reading schematics. Could you enlighten my beginners mind on how this would fit on the onesie PCB?

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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 11:30 am 
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Quote:
I looked this up in the Dead Easy Dirt thread, but I'm not much for reading schematics. Could you enlighten my beginners mind on how this would fit on the onesie PCB?


Sure! The components all get soldered to the two new pots, not to the Onesie board itself. The wiring changes a little bit - I will diagram the whole thing this evening after work and post...


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 11:38 am 
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Thanks! :D
So this essentially gives you a "fuzz" knob as well as a level knob? This sounds great because my friend wanted to control the amount of fuzz in my previous onesie, but couldn't get it right without being too loud.

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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 11:43 am 
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Well, not really. The Onesie has one amount of fuzz and what is essentially a volume control - you don't get more or less fuzz, you just get the same amount of fuzz louder or softer.

What my mod does is put a tone control and then a volume control after the original Fuzz Volume control. This allows me to run the original Fuzz Volume at full and then control how loud it is with the second volume control. What that does (to my ears) is add a *bit* of treble to the fuzz, most likely because all the components are running full out or something.

*EDIT* this fuzz does clean up pretty well with the guitar's volume knob...


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 11:52 am 
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Ahh, now I get it! Still sounds like a great addition to this. Thanks for the explanation!

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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 1:26 pm 
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Has anyone tried anything other than an MPSA13 with the schematic above (adjusting the 10K resistor too, I imagine)? I don't have any and am curious!

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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 1:31 pm 
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p_wats wrote:
Has anyone tried anything other than an MPSA13 with the schematic above (adjusting the 10K resistor too, I imagine)? I don't have any and am curious!


I'm using a MPSA18 in mine....with all the stock values for resistor....i tried bunch of others aswell, 2N5088, 2N5089 sounds really good

BC109-108 also worked but where a bit underpowered, so maybe a change a resistor would do it ;)

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After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 2:06 pm 
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GrindCustoms wrote:
p_wats wrote:
Has anyone tried anything other than an MPSA13 with the schematic above (adjusting the 10K resistor too, I imagine)? I don't have any and am curious!


I'm using a MPSA18 in mine....with all the stock values for resistor....i tried bunch of others aswell, 2N5088, 2N5089 sounds really good

BC109-108 also worked but where a bit underpowered, so maybe a change a resistor would do it ;)


Awesome! I have MPSA18s and a ton of 2N5088/89s! Thanks!

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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 2:49 pm 
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If you guys want to do a traditional gain control, you'll have to get jiggy. :mrgreen:

Normally you would put a 1K pot (as a variable resistor) between emitter and ground. But on this board, the emitter pad is always grounded. So you could solder in collector and base, and then leave emitter hanging and run a wire from the 1K pot to the emitter (and the other side of the pot would go to ground).

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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 3:33 pm 
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culturejam wrote:
If you guys want to do a traditional gain control, you'll have to get jiggy. :mrgreen:

Normally you would put a 1K pot (as a variable resistor) between emitter and ground. But on this board, the emitter pad is always grounded. So you could solder in collector and base, and then leave emitter hanging and run a wire from the 1K pot to the emitter (and the other side of the pot would go to ground).


hmmm . . . . that sounds cool :idea:


p_wats wrote:
Has anyone tried anything other than an MPSA13 with the schematic above (adjusting the 10K resistor too, I imagine)? I don't have any and am curious!


I had the same problem so I made one with a home-made darlington using a couple of 5088s on a perf build I'm finishing up. Sounds pretty good that way too.


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:12 pm 
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Could you use a Sziklai Pair in place of the 1 transistor?

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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:29 pm 
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mafew129 wrote:
Could you use a Sziklai Pair in place of the 1 transistor?


I never tried this ^^^

But my favorite transistor combo for a Bazz Fuss circuit is a homemade Darlinton Pair with 2 @ 2n5089's. That has the most gain and the tightest fuzz. Total Stoner Metal... Think old Kyuss. But you need to make sure you get the 5089's that have good gain or else it will still sound weaker than optimal.


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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 12:54 pm 
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Attachment:
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bad Visio of the connections for the 3Z...


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