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 Post subject: Bass Fuzz Suggestions
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:28 am 
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Location: Takoma Park, MD
I would like to build a fuzz for bass. I previously built the BYOC Overdrive and it's bloody great for guitar. Here's my question: what kit should I use? I'm not some fuzz connoisseur, I just want something nice and... well... fuzzy. I think I want something that is not synth or electronic sounding if you know what I mean. When I play the bass through a regulation big muff, it's okay, but kind of treble-ish.

I've seen the thread here on modding the ESV (looks simple and the kit looks easy). I've also seen a competitor kit (Fur Face) that looks easy and, I assume, the same mod would apply. I'd still like something relatively easy (the OD was my first and as yet, only build). Thanks it advance for your ideas.


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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 12:22 pm 
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I use a circuit called the Bazz Fuss for bass. If you change out a couple of component values, it rocks for bass especially. I have put the various cap values on a toggle switch on a couple to make it suitable for bass or guitar. The circuit only has a few components and sounds great. CultureJam has a board he is selling called the Onesie that is this very circuit. Check it out.


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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 1:13 pm 
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BradWorld wrote:
I use a circuit called the Bazz Fuss for bass. If you change out a couple of component values, it rocks for bass especially. I have put the various cap values on a toggle switch on a couple to make it suitable for bass or guitar. The circuit only has a few components and sounds great. CultureJam has a board he is selling called the Onesie that is this very circuit. Check it out.


+1 on that!

You could also consider the Wooly Mammoth if you are able to vero ;)

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Comfort Player wrote:
After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 1:28 pm 
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GrindCustoms wrote:
BradWorld wrote:
I use a circuit called the Bazz Fuss for bass. If you change out a couple of component values, it rocks for bass especially. I have put the various cap values on a toggle switch on a couple to make it suitable for bass or guitar. The circuit only has a few components and sounds great. CultureJam has a board he is selling called the Onesie that is this very circuit. Check it out.


+1 on that!

You could also consider the Wooly Mammoth if you are able to vero ;)


Okay... going to need some help. The thing about the BYOC OD pedal kit was, well, it was all there! Where do I find instructions, parts list, etc. for either of these? But thanks, these sound interesting.

P.S. what's vero?


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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 1:35 pm 
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BradWorld wrote:
I use a circuit called the Bazz Fuss for bass. If you change out a couple of component values, it rocks for bass especially. I have put the various cap values on a toggle switch on a couple to make it suitable for bass or guitar. The circuit only has a few components and sounds great. CultureJam has a board he is selling called the Onesie that is this very circuit. Check it out.

Which values did you change and what were they? My bass player friend wants one!

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 1:39 pm 
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comfortstarr wrote:
GrindCustoms wrote:
BradWorld wrote:
I use a circuit called the Bazz Fuss for bass. If you change out a couple of component values, it rocks for bass especially. I have put the various cap values on a toggle switch on a couple to make it suitable for bass or guitar. The circuit only has a few components and sounds great. CultureJam has a board he is selling called the Onesie that is this very circuit. Check it out.


+1 on that!

You could also consider the Wooly Mammoth if you are able to vero ;)


Okay... going to need some help. The thing about the BYOC OD pedal kit was, well, it was all there! Where do I find instructions, parts list, etc. for either of these? But thanks, these sound interesting.

P.S. what's vero?


You can find the build instruction of the Onesie here: viewtopic.php?f=41&t=36997

Vero is also called Stripboard, it's a way of building circuits without «pro-fab» pcb (like BYOC), there's tons of layout of effects of any kind.

If you're fairly new to the hobby, doing the onesie as a first non-kit built could be great, since it got a low part count and sounds awesome.

If you want to, i could even build you up a complete «kit» of the onesie and send it your way, with sockets and couple capacitor value so you can fine tune it to your taste and some different trannies too... :wink:

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Comfort Player wrote:
After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 3:26 pm 
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mxsix wrote:
Which values did you change and what were they? My bass player friend wants one!


I would love to share, and I will post my layouts here below. I have been doing this DIY pedal thing for a few years, but I am still quite the noob when it comes to complex electronic theory. So I really love circuits like the Bazz Fuss which are low on the parts count, and help me understand exactly what is going on within the circuit. Then I build like 20 variants of this circuit on vero and learn a whole lot in the process. So I recommend this exercise for anyone that is not an electronics theory expert, but wants to get a basic understanding.

In this circuit, much of the tone shaping is in the input and out caps. there are literally hundreds of different schematics posted that have a similar layout, but different parts values.

If I look at the original run-off-groove / home-wrecker schematic, they have the input cap at 4.7u and output at .1u.

On the Onesie it appears to me that there is .1u for both input and output. The 47u is the power filtering cap I guess. Correct me if I am wrong. But I dont use a power filtering cap on my design.

On CultureJam's old website, he has a hundred year old eyelet layout for the Bazz Fuss that shows the output cap at .1u, but the input cap is changed to 2.2uf. I like this setup, and here is my vero layout for that...

Image

The above layout uses the original tranny and diodes of the original design.

To get more fuzz and a bit smoother sound, I have changed the tranny to a homemade darlington pair using some high gain 2n5089s I have been using. Forget where i got them from, but I have not had great success with all of the 5089's... just some of them. I also bump the Input cap to 0.47u for a more bass friendly tone, change the diode to a 1n4001 for more gain, and add a switch to select between two output caps for guitar versus bass. Or just as a thick switch for guitar usage. I have the normal 2.2u on one side of the toggle, and a .01u on the other. I have some great results with this layout, and have enjoyed jamming with these pedals on guitar and bass for the last several years.

Image

The above sounds great on the bass. The sag knob is optional, and probably not neccessary, but I love the sound of fuzz with the battery on the verge of dying. The changed components basically remove most of the glitchy chatter that occurs with the standard Bazz Fuss, so the sag knob allows me to dial some of that back in.

I hope this helps. enjoy.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 2:28 am 
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Hey guys, sorry to jump in and bump a kinda old thread, but I am wanting to build a bass fuzz, and was wondering about a lot of the stuff above...I have only done the PCB kits from BYOC...and the schematic stuff looks like greek to me lol the diagrams like bradworld posted make a little more sense, but I don't get what the components are connecting to...is there a place that explains the vero stuff a little clearer for noobs...also I am very intruiged by the onsie and trying that as my first non pcb attempt lol...where do you guys source those parts from?

Thanks in advance for any help

DT


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 2:42 am 
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Location: Rouyn-Noranda, Qc
You can source everything needed from Mammoth Electronics, http://www.mammothelectronics.com.

In the prototyping menu you'll find the veroboard or it may be called stripboard.

All the components on that site are «pedal» oriented, so you can't miss your shot....unlike Mouser...

Veroboard is pretty simple, it's actually strips of copper that create the conductance between the components.

On one side it's plain epoxy or other fiber material, that's the side you put the components, the other side has the strips, that's where you solder.

The red pad that you see on the layout, those are trace cuts, to stop the connectivity when needed.

You will also see on more complex layouts, jumpers, a black trace, that goes from one strip to another, those have the purpose of bouncing strips of the vero so they connect together.

If you have have other questions, just ask, we'll answer ;)

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Comfort Player wrote:
After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 2:58 am 
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awesome thanks man! that's starting to make a lot of sense...on the bottom diagram is that a 6 post switch outlined in blue or is that something different entirely?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:01 am 
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DrThunder wrote:
awesome thanks man! that's starting to make a lot of sense...on the bottom diagram is that a 6 post switch outlined in blue or is that something different entirely?


Cool!

That's a 2PDT On/On switch, Double Pole Double Throw Toggle switch, so you can select between different capacitors.

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Comfort Player wrote:
After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:04 am 
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I also suggest that you take a look at this site, http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca

That is a blog by IvIark, he sometime post on here, i think that there's some tutorials and how to aswell on his blog.

But there's mainly a truck load of verified layouts of some of the niciest effects out there ;)

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Comfort Player wrote:
After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:04 am 
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Location: Rouyn-Noranda, Qc
I also suggest that you take a look at this site, http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca

That is a blog by IvIark, he sometime post on here, i think that there's some tutorials and how to aswell on his blog.

But there's mainly a truck load of verified layouts of some of the niciest effects out there ;)

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Comfort Player wrote:
After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:45 am 
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GrindCustoms wrote:
DrThunder wrote:
awesome thanks man! that's starting to make a lot of sense...on the bottom diagram is that a 6 post switch outlined in blue or is that something different entirely?


Cool!

That's a 2PDT On/On switch, Double Pole Double Throw Toggle switch, so you can select between different capacitors.



oh duh lol...i havent done a pedal with a toggle yet, so i wasnt thinking that way lol...so i take it he just doesn't show the switch on this diagram? is that because all are done the same and non-newbs know how to do that without the diagram? or am i missing something else lol...thanks for the link, checkin that out now

DT


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 11:35 pm 
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ok, that site is amazing...im SLOWLY starting to understand, this stuff seems pretty straight forward...I guess my main issue now is I'm having trouble figuring out exactly what parts I need... I decided to go with the woolly mammoth clone here http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/201 ... -vero.html looks pretty easy, but I was kinda expecting a parts list somewhere as well I guess? Do you guys just go by the drawing and know what to get? Also I looked at mammothelectronics.com and am having trouble finding an enclosure like that...(the perfect one for me would actually be just like that only the LED in the middle) any other sources that might haveo ne like that or do most of you guys drill your own?

thanks

DT


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 2:16 am 
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The way Mark rights the part values needed for each components is pretty easy, look carefully on the vero layout, all the components have value written on them.

Everything that got a R,M, and K are resitors.

What have nF are polyfilm capacitors.

What have pF are ceramic capacitors.

What have uF are Electrolytic capacitors.

What is written as Q1, Q2..etc..., are Transistor and what you need is written at the bottom of the layout, same thing for the potentiometers.

For the transistors you will need sockets, look at mammoth, they have «strip socket» pick up 1 or 2 of those, and you cut the number of sockets you need. You solder that in place and then once everything is ready to go you can put your trannies in.

Hope it helps

Rej

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Comfort Player wrote:
After reflowing and several attempts at signal tracing and switch testing I plugged in the power.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 4:12 am 
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that does help, thanks a lot...I was having a little trouble figuring out what was what kind of parts...I did figure out the resistors, and found all of them except I cant find the 2k2 and the 4k99...are those listed a different way?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:09 am 
2K2 or 4K7 etc is another way of indicating a decimal point. So those values would be 2.2K and 4.7K, K being short for Kilohms a 1,000 multiplier. So 4.7K = 47,000 ohms.

There ain't no such animal as a 4K99, it is not a standard value.


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