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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2020 12:27 pm 
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I have bought and built a ton of BYOC pedals. You guys are so good at troubleshooting..is it ok if I ask for help with my very clean 1965 (not a reissue) Deluxe Reverb? Mods, please remove if not allowed, and I apologize if not. My 1965 DR is not getting reverb. It does get the thunderous crashing sound when it is hit or moved, but the reverb is not present in the guitar signal at all, even when reverb knob is cranked. I have confirmed my cables are good and have used electronics cleaner to do all 4 rca jacks (tank and chassis). I have also checked the tank for obvious broken wires and have replaced V3 and V4. I am assuming there is not a whole lot of things to check in the reverb circuit, but I just dont know where to check. I do have a multimeter and am comfortable working around the voltage in these amps (I do my own biasing and filter cap replacements). I have a 470 ohm 8 watt snuffer stick I made for discharging caps. Any help is appreciated.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2020 12:37 pm 
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No problem at all seeking help here with your BFDR project, but I'm going to move this thread over to the DIY Discussion forum since we like to keep the Amplifier Tech Support forum focused on BYOC amp kits.

BTW, if you have an electronic schematic available for the amp, posting that (or a link to it) would be helpful. Sounds like the problem is on the "send" side of the reverb circuit, since the spring crash you hear indicates that the return side is working.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2020 1:27 pm 
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Have you changed the 12AT7 reverb driver tube? How did you check your cables?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2020 7:55 pm 
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Morgan wrote:
Have you changed the 12AT7 reverb driver tube? How did you check your cables?


I changed V3 and V4 since they are in the reverb circuit AFAIK. Not a tube problem. I tested the cable with the continuity function on my DMM (ground to ground, hot to hot and ground to hot on both). All checks out.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2020 7:59 pm 
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Also, thought you guys might enjoy...it's very clean for a 1965.
https://i.imgur.com/rOJt5pj.jpg


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 6:00 am 
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Lovely!

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 10:17 am 
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If you have another fender amp with reverb, you can swap the tanks to see if the input of the DR tank is not working. If that doesn't fix it, there is likely something wrong with the V3 tube socket or accessory components. If it is something inside the amplifier chassis, I'd recommend having a good tech service it, since it is a valuable vintage amp.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 11:15 am 
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Morgan wrote:
If you have another fender amp with reverb, you can swap the tanks to see if the input of the DR tank is not working. If that doesn't fix it, there is likely something wrong with the V3 tube socket or accessory components. If it is something inside the amplifier chassis, I'd recommend having a good tech service it, since it is a valuable vintage amp.


Thanks Morgan, I do have a DRRI and had the thought that I could switch tanks to see what happens. I believe the tank is good since it does generate the thunderous reverb when it is moved, it is just not getting mixed into the dry signal. I have a great tech here in Houston, but I'm cheap and prefer to do it myself if possible. If I can save a bill or two I can buy more pedal kits!!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 11:41 am 
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jonnytexas wrote:
I believe the tank is good since it does generate the thunderous reverb when it is moved, it is just not getting mixed into the dry signal.

No, that's not quite the case. Since you can hear the reverb tank crash through the amp, we know that the reverb tank output and the reverb recovery circuit are working. That means that input signal is not getting to the tank springs. That narrows down the issue to the reverb tank driver tube (which you changed), the tube socket and accessory components, and the reverb input cable (which you tested). We don't know if the tank input is actually working or not (the tank input can be broken while the output can work fine). Swapping the tank will tell you if the original tank is broken, or if it's an issue with the driver circuit. You might be right that the tank is fine, but you haven't actually ruled that out yet. You can also hook that tank up to your DRRI to see if it works. That's actually a better option.

It's worth noting too, that you can get continuity through an intermittently bad cable. It's always best to swap the reverb cables for a known working or new pair, for troubleshooting purposes. Also, the RCA plugs somethings need to be retensioned to make sure the ground shield makes good contact.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 2:20 pm 
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Hi Morgan, thanks for oyur help buddy!! I'm going to try hooking up the tank to my DRRI. Can I assume that the tanks are interchangeable even though they were made 40 years apart?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 8:41 pm 
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Yep. Same circuit. Same impedance on the tanks.

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