intheflesh wrote:
Before I left for work this morning, I did a few more tests. I disconnected the green wires from the filament circuit. Both wires (coming out of the transformer) are showing continuity to ground. I disconnected the green/yellow center tap. Still showing continuity to ground. Does that make sense?
No, it doesn't really make sense. I believe that the 6 volt circuit should be isolated from the transformer core when all 3 taps are disconnected. But I don't really know that (perhaps the heater center tap is tied to the HV center tap?) and I don't think anyone here really knows that for sure either. The problem is that transformers are inductors, and you can't really make many direct measurements on them with a DMM. We can mostly only make indirect measurements, which means we usually act off of symptoms.
In this case, it seems like you don't have actual symptoms (no power, one of the secondary circuits not working, excess heat, smoking, etc) and we're just sort of fretting about a resistance reading. Plus, if the transformer is already bad, we can't make it any worse by plugging it in.
So this is what you do: reconnect the heater circuit. Do not install any tubes. Make sure the transformer wiring is correct. Make sure you've got the correct fuse installed (2 amp slo blo). Plug the amp in and turn it on (put it on a current limiter if you've got one). When you turn it on, the indicator light should come on. This will immediately tell you if the heater circuit is working because the indicator works off the heater circuit. If there is an internal short in the transformer either the fuse will blow right away, or you will hear some gurgling in the transformer and maybe see some smoking (or the light bulb will glow brightly if you have a limiter).
If all seems well, turn the amp off, install a 12AX7 into V1, turn it back on and see if the 12AX7 heater begins to glow. If it does, install another 12AX7 into V2 and check again. If all seems well at that point, proceed with the rest of the BYOC instructions.