Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hello,

I just tried the first test step and did not see the pilot light come on. I noticed that the back panel says to use a 2 amp fuse, but since I selected the 120 volt option, my fuse should be 3 amp. I didn't see a 2 or 3 on the fuse, though. Also, the bottom lug of the fuse holder shipped very loose. I emailed BYOC, but the person who responded said that was normal. You will see that the standby switch is different. I broke the one that shipped when I was screwing it in, so I got a replacement. Also, my choke had one white and one black wire, not two black. I contacted the manufacturer who said that two different colors are now the spec and the choke is non-polarized.

Did you install the .5A center tap fuse? It looks like it's missing in your pic.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Yes, I installed it. The kit came with two. I assume one is a spare? Does the .5A center tap fuse have a particular orientation that must be followed?

Do you have access to a multimeter and know how to use one? It's easy to see if there is voltage getting to the pilot light, and if not, where the "juice" stops flowing.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Yes, I have an autoranging digital multimeter. I'm checking AC voltage to the pilot light, correct?

Other than the fuse, does anything else seem wrong?

That's what we need to find out using the multimeter!

You want to set the meter to read AC voltage, and touch the black probe to ground. Any point grounded to the chassis will work for this purpose. Next, make sure you have mains power going into the power cord socket, but leave the power toggle on the front panel OFF for now. If everything is hooked up & working correctly, you should see mains voltage (i.e. ~120VAC) at the following points by testing with the red probe:

• The left solder tab of the mains socket (wired to the top tab of the mains fuse)
• The top tab of the mains fuse (wired to the left tab of the mains socket)
• The rear tab of the mains fuse (wired to the power toggle switch)
• The bottom tab of the power toggle switch

Please check these four points and report back with your results.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

So, I tested the left solder tab of the mains socket and got 121.3V

The top tab of the mains fuse was also 121.3V

The rear tab of the mains fuse (the one that was shipped loose) got .119V

The bottom tab of the power toggle switch got .517V

OK, you're not getting current flow through the mains fuse. Either the fuse is blown or broken, or it's not properly installed in the holder. Take the fuse out of the holder and inspect it carefully. The glass should be intact and the metal filament should be intact with no visible breaks.

The mains fuse holder routinely ships in two pieces, since it has to be taken apart to insert the fuse anyway. The loose lug tightens up when the fuse is installed and compresses the internal portion of the holder. You have to be sure that you install the correct fuse of the two that come with the kit. The 3A slo-blo mains fuse has a noticeably thicker filament than the 500 mA HT fuse, so they can be told apart even if you can't read the faint marking inscribed on the metal end caps.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

These are the three fuses that shipped with the kit. The one on the rightI installed in the panel fuse holder. I don't see any glass in this fuse. The bottom lug remains loose, even after tightening its nut and screwing in the fuse. I don't see any difference in the other two fuses.

Well, that explains your problem. The object on the right is not a fuse--it's the cap of the main fuse holder. You need to insert the 3A fuse--I can't tell which one that is from the blurry photo, but you should be able to figure that out from the filament width or the engraving on the metal end caps--into that cap as far as it will go, then push it into the fuse holder and rotate that cap until it locks in place. Then your pilot light should fire up for you.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

That did the trick! I was able to get the voltage readings in spec.

When I went to install the tubes I had a couple problems. On the first KT66 pin 1, the socket is bent inwards and I can't install the tube all the way. It does light up though.

When I went to install the last ECC83 tube, the pins bent a little. I straightened them out with my finger and was able to install it. I'm not able to get lit up. I put it a different tube in the socket and it lights up.