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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 2:21 pm 
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Peter Denissen wrote:
+9V socket: 8.48 V
+18V socket: 12.29V
+4,5V socket: 4.24V
-9V socket: -8.28V

Those look good except for the +18V. You might want to recheck that one.

Peter Denissen wrote:
In resistance mode (ohm), on the 200 setting (is that a max of 200 ohms??) of my multimeter the result is 00.4. Does this mean 0.4ohm? It's the setting to also check continuity and it beeps so there's a connection.

Yep, that's correct--0.4 ohms. OK, your ground connection looks fine then.

Peter Denissen wrote:
Jumpered I & O, with power and guitar => pedal => amp. Boost volume up. Drive off. Boost on. NO SIGNAL

This is likely the source of your problem, then. It indicates that there is a break in the circuit either going into the boost stage or between its output and the final output of the pedal.

I would start by re-flowing the solder joints for the following connections on the main CJ PCB:

  • The I and O socket connections on the bottom of the board
  • The input and output relay connections (10 each) on the bottom of the board
  • The 3 boost level pot connections on the top of the board
  • The 9 first/last toggle switch connections on the top of the board

Re-test the jumpered I/O connection after completing these re-flows. This time, when you do it, try both the "first" and "last" positions of the toggle switch to see if it makes any difference. If the pedal still isn't passing dry signal in both of those toggle positions, you're going to need to go through the signal probe process that Stephen has suggested.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 4:07 pm 
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Reflown all those solderpoints.
Jumpered I/O. Alas, no sound. First last switch doesnt seem to matter.

How do you guys reflow under all those pots?

How do you get the pcd out of the enclosure without desoldering the DC adapter?

Ive included some pictures. Maybe it could be of any assistance.

Im a bit worried about the first last switch. It's in there not straight. I've tried to get it out and resolder straight but I don't get it out. But the time I heat the 3rd (of the 9!) legs the solder on the 1st one has hardened.

How do I make a signal probe out of a cap and old guitar cable? Do you have any links?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 4:09 pm 
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Some more pics...


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 4:17 am 
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The top half of this diagram (above “enhanced version”) shows how to make a probe out of an instrument cable.
Image

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 7:15 am 
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Great Ill give it a go.
Once its made how do I proceed with my new probe ;-)?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 12:00 pm 
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More info on construction and use of an audio probe (a.k.a. signal tester) here: http://byocelectronics.com/signaltesterinstructions.pdf

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 2:25 pm 
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Finished my signal probe.

How do I test my probe ;-) Ground connects to ground on the other side and positive connects to positive on the other side (in front of the cap of course...)

What points do I exactly need to probe?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 4:02 pm 
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Because of the complexity of the relay and first/last switching systems in the CJ, it will take me some time to work out the testing sequence to recommend to you. Please give me a day or so to do that. I'll post back here when I have it for you.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 1:10 am 
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Of course! Thank you for taking the time to help me out!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 10:06 pm 
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Sorry for taking so long to get back to you on this.

The fact that you couldn't get signal through the boost header when you jumped the input and output shows that there's a discontinuity in the circuit either on the input side or the output side. So the first thing to determine is which one of those is the culprit. Turns out it's pretty simple to do that, using just a multimeter. Here's how:

1) Apply power to the pedal, put the First/Last switch in the "first" position, and engage the boost switch (LED should be on) while leaving the drive side bypassed. Set your multimeter to read resistance and use the 2000 ohm (or 2K) range setting. Test the resistance between the tip of the input jack and the I socket for the boost. Use the same method of inserting a piece of bare wire or trimmed component lead in the I socket for a test connection. The resistance between the two points should be right around 470 ohms (or 0.47 Kohms).

2) Switch to the "last" position of the First/Last switch. Turn the boost level switch all the way up. Now test the resistance between the tip of the output jack and the O socket for the boost. Again, the resistance should measure about 470 Ohms.

Presumably, one of these two measurements won't give the predicted result. Please do these tests and let us know the results.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 2:21 pm 
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The 'last' position in combination with tip/output and O gives 470 ohm as expected
The 'first' position icw tip/input and I gives nothing. Nothing happens on the DMM. Setting is 2k and I only see '1.' Nothing changes.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 11:27 am 
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OK, it looks like the problem is on the input side, which makes sense, because there's a whole lot more going on on that side than on the output side.

Try these two tests next:

1) With the pedal set up exactly as per the first test above, measure resistance between the tip of the input jack and lug 3 (upper right corner) of the first/last switch. The lugs are numbered as follows as viewed from the open back of the pedal with the jacks at the top:

1....2....3
4....5....6
7....8....9

2) With the same setup, measure the resistance between lug 3 of the first/last switch and the top of resistor R3 (see labeled PCB map below, just above the boost volume pot VR1).

Both measurements should show ~0 resistance between the test points. Which one didn't?

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 1:37 pm 
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input jack tip => lug 3 gives around 00.5 ohms (on the 200 setting)
lug 3 to top of R3 nothing happens. The DMM doesn't do anything. Just stays on '1.' (on the 2k setting).


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 4:35 pm 
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Yeah, that's what I figured. Looks to me like you probably have a bad R2 relay chip, which is all that's between R3 and lug 3 of the first/last switch. Below is a diagram of the circuit path you just measured and got no resistance reading for, indicating an open circuit, i.e. no connection between the two test points. I expect the most likely reason is that the internal connection between those two adjacent points on the right side of the relay in the diagram of the back side of the PCB below isn't being made. Still, it could be a bad solder connection at one of the four circled connection points. So the first thing I would do is to check those four solder joints and re-flow them if anything looks less than optimal. If the boost stage still doesn't work, then contact BYOC at sales@buildyourownclone.com for a replacement relay chip.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:04 am 
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OK, I'll try the reflow first.

About the relay... is that a generic relay you can buy anywhere or a special byoc thing? I'm in the Netherlands. Would they send me a new one and if yes, this would probably take a while right? TQ2-5V right? Here they sell the TQ2-5V-DC. Is that the one?

If reflow doesn't work, I have to replace the delay I understand? How does one get that thing out of the PCB? By the time you've 'melted' the solder on pin 8 pin 1 has gone solid again lol? Any trics?

Thanks again for all the help!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 12:09 pm 
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Peter Denissen wrote:
How does one get that thing out of the PCB?

With considerable difficulty! ;)

Seriously, this isn't an easy task. Once a component has 3 or more solder connection points, it gets increasingly hard to de-solder from a PCB. And if it is installed flush to the PCB, as these relays are, that adds to the difficulty. The key is (1) having the right tools & supplies for de-soldering, and (2) a lot of patience.

First, you want to get yourself a "solder sucker" to remove as much of the solder from each joint as possible, and then use good quality de-soldering braid to absorb the remaining traces of solder until each leg is free of its eyelet. I can't tell you where to find such items in the Netherlands, but they must be available somewhere! Neither one is expensive. In the US, you can get both for under $10 USD total.

As you remove the relay, be sure NOT to apply any significant amount of force to removing any of the relay legs. This is how the eyelets on the PCB get damaged or ripped loose, which then causes bigger problems in repairing the pedal. PATIENCE IS KEY!!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 1:07 pm 
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Peter Denissen wrote:
Here they sell the TQ2-5V-DC. Is that the one?



Yeah, that should be it. Just make sure it's a 10-pin, '2 Form C' (Form C relays are SPDT and break the connection with one throw before making contact with the other), non-latching, through-hole relay. AFAIK, with the TQ relays, it will always have a 'L' or 'L2' when they're the latching type. If you're hesitant, feel free to reach out to the sales address, and we'll get one sent to you.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 3:33 am 
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How do you guys handle the DC adaptor when getting the PCB out of the enclosure. I have to desolder the two leads but maybe there's a workaround?

About 2 Form C: does that mean 'double form C'? So the SPDT becomes DPDT?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 9:32 am 
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Peter Denissen wrote:
How do you guys handle the DC adaptor when getting the PCB out of the enclosure. I have to desolder the two leads but maybe there's a workaround?

Unless you left the wire connections long enough to pull the PCB out of the enclosure with them still attached, they'll need to be de-soldered.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 9:47 am 
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Reflowing didn't yield the expected result... I ordered a new relay.

About 2 Form C: does that mean 'double form C'? So the SPDT becomes DPDT? Just out of curiousity

Is there a way to test the old relay once it's out of the PCB?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:19 am 
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Peter Denissen wrote:
...So the SPDT becomes DPDT?...

Is there a way to test the old relay once it's out of the PCB?



Yeah, basically.

As for the testing, not by themselves. You can build a test rig with the relay, a couple switches and some LEDs to see if they're switching, but they are 'inert' without power.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 3:53 am 
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Replaced the relais. Still boost doesnt work :-(.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 10:40 am 
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Have you guys forgotten me :( :wink: :wink: :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 12:49 pm 
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Sorry, just running out of ideas. If it's not the relay, I suppose that the MCU would be the next possibility, but how that works is pretty much black magic to me. I think I'll ask "the big guy" to weigh in on this....

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 1:01 pm 
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Where in the signal path does the audio stop?

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