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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 6:01 pm 
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Hey everyone I just finished my 250+ build to Distortion+ specs (minus one of the 1uf caps which i replaced with a 10uf one) and it isn't working entirely. Most likely poor soldering or something on my part but I was hoping you guys could help me locate the problem, I don't have a camera right now but I will get pics up asap. So here is the problem, the pedal works fine in bypass when i switch it one the LED does not come on. The Distortion pot has no effect. The volume one does but not that much. I know this is probably worthless without pics, but I will get them up as soon as i get a camera.Thanks :)

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 7:10 pm 
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Could be your switch wiring, double check it and put up the pics.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:13 pm 
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Yeah. Switch wiring is one of the most common problems. It's real easy to mess it up when you first start building. Also, double check your LED polarity. Remember, match the 'flat' side of the LED to the 'flat' side on the silk screening on the board :)

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:03 pm 
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mantas68 wrote:
Yeah. Switch wiring is one of the most common problems. It's real easy to mess it up when you first start building. Also, double check your LED polarity. Remember, match the 'flat' side of the LED to the 'flat' side on the silk screening on the board :)


Woah, I totally missed that, I guess i just assumed long leg goes to the square pad like on most components, going to fix it now. Thanks

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:30 pm 
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J.R. wrote:
mantas68 wrote:
Yeah. Switch wiring is one of the most common problems. It's real easy to mess it up when you first start building. Also, double check your LED polarity. Remember, match the 'flat' side of the LED to the 'flat' side on the silk screening on the board :)


Woah, I totally missed that, I guess i just assumed long leg goes to the square pad like on most components, going to fix it now. Thanks


Yep. This is a very common error with new builders. The LED is the ONE exception in terms of the square pad NOT being the positive +. If I'm real tired while I'm building, I can still occasionally screw that one up - LOL ;)

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:46 pm 
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Ok, now I have the LED working. so bypass, the LED and the volume pot are working but there's no distortion and the volume pot seems kinda weak, and my camera has decided to freeze so i can't get pics right now.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 2:06 pm 
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Ok, because of a lack of a camera I've used my crappy webcam to take some pictures.They're pretty blurry.



Wiring

Image

Switch

Image

PCB Topside

Image

PCB Bottom

Image



Also is it possible that i overheated/broke the PCB somehow? I hope not. Thanks

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 9:41 pm 
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I really hate to say this, but I'm not going to be able to get much from these pics. Sorry. Try touching up all of the solder joints for the pots. Check both the pot terminals and where the wires solder to the PCB. There is also still the possibility that you may have issues with your switch and jack wiring. The LED is working and that's cool. Even if the LED is working though, you still can have some switch and jack wiring issues. The LED only uses 1/3 of the terminals on the 3PDT switch, while the signal uses the remaining 2/3 of it. Do you have a meter that you can check continuity with by chance ? :)

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 4:25 am 
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I have the signal tester that came free with the kit. Tbh i'm not sure how to use it

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 6:59 am 
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Hey im having kind of a similar problem as this guy did. My pedal's LED will come on, and it will run through the pedal and play clean but when I switch to distortion it will just give me a hummming\buzzing sound. I can adjust the humming and buzzing's volume with the volume pot. But the other pot will not respond... any Ideas?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:51 am 
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mikebeazle wrote:
Hey im having kind of a similar problem as this guy did. My pedal's LED will come on, and it will run through the pedal and play clean but when I switch to distortion it will just give me a hummming\buzzing sound. I can adjust the humming and buzzing's volume with the volume pot. But the other pot will not respond... any Ideas?


Post some nice clear pics and I can get a better idea of what the problem is. It sounds like you may have a couple of wires swapped around backwards from the output of the switch (Lug #5) to board, but that's just a guess. Switch wiring and colder solder joints are usually the culprit in this situation. Also, recheck the polarity of your polarized components (electrolytic caps, the 741D IC chip, diodes...etc...). Well get 'er running for 'ya! :) :) :) :)

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:22 am 
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ok well... I can't get pics quite yet. But I will soon. when you say cold solder joints do you mean a joint where there is excessive solder? I was also wondering if excessive solder at a joint could cause this problem because the problem may lie in my soldering. It's not like there's pounds of solder on the terminals but there is a good amount.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:17 pm 
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mikebeazle wrote:
ok well... I can't get pics quite yet. But I will soon. when you say cold solder joints do you mean a joint where there is excessive solder? I was also wondering if excessive solder at a joint could cause this problem because the problem may lie in my soldering. It's not like there's pounds of solder on the terminals but there is a good amount.


A cold solder joint is basically a bad solder joint. A good solder joint will be real smooth and shiny like a tiny little Hershey's Kiss. It will almost shine like chrome. A cold solder joint (please don't take this wrong way, I swear I'm a real nice guy - LOL), will look like a "pigeon turd". It will be dark and gray with bits of dirty black flecks in it. Sometimes some of the melted and burnt rubber insulation from the wires can contribute to a cold solder joint. A cold solder joint will not conduct electricity very well, if at all. There are a lot of steps you need to take to insure that your soldering iron tip is clean and tinned before making every connection. I really suggest that you click this link and thoroughly read Stephen's Tips For A Better Build here:

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=6718

This is an excellent primer for helping builders of almost ALL skill levels. Don't worry. We'll get 'er fixed - LOL. :)

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 11:10 am 
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The problem is most likely on the PCB, and not with the wiring, since the volume knob has some affect when the pedal is engaged. Pics would help a lot just to verify that you have everything where it should be and unfortunately, those pics are pretty useless.

The signal tester will help a lot too. Test at pin 3 and pin 6 of the 741 and let us know what you hear.

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Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com


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