Build Your Own Clone Message Board

First, I apologise in advance if this has been definitely answered. I've been a rock-n-blues man for over 32 years but am new to B.Y.O.C., (but damn excited about it and my first 2 builds!!). That said, what is the bottom line, final answer end all be all regarding leaving in and useing the 250+'s existing circut, and adding the Landgraff mod? I mean use a on,on,on switch, 2 on,off,on switches? What? A diagram clearly showing the "final answer" would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks for thr help and patience with the "Old Newbie".

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Old newbie with a new addiction.
"Everybody's got somethin' to hide 'cept for me 'n my monkey"

Welcome to your new addiction!!!

So by final answer, do you mean how it is done?? Below is a link to the landgraff switch mod for the 250+. Switches between LED (landgraff) and stock (asymmetric 1n914/1n4148).



And to the on-on-on "deluxe" version, as well. Just apply the same idea to the 250+ even tho the one below is for the overdrive.



Here's the thread about clipping mods as well:
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=7994&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=landgraff+mod+250

Let me know if you have any other questions, hope it works out!

So, d3 gets the switch lines, but D1 and D2 are installed per 250+ instructions?
Thanks for the help and patience.

Also, anything special regarding TYPE of LED. I've all ready read the whole color of the LED thing,I just mean size, etc...
Thanks!
Old Newbie with a new addiction.

If you're going to use the switch for the clipping mods for D1 and D2, you're probably going to want to remove D1 and D2 from the board. If you leave them on the board, they'll be blended in with the new clipping circuit that will be on the switch, and you won't get the 'clean boost' feature that you get with a 'on/off/off' or 'on/on/on' switch. As for the size and color of the diodes, it's completely a matter of taste, and you'll have to experiment and see what you like. It's a very apples and oranges type scenario with clipping components. Especially the differences between types and colors of LEDs.

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Keep 'yer tips tinned, 'yer sponges wet, and TELL THEM KIDS TO SHUT THE HELL UP!!!

OK. I'ts morning, first cup of coffee, so forgive me if I'm a bit daft, but all I want to do is this: Be able to use the EXISTING 250+ OD, but also be able to switch between the Lnadgraff Mod. There are 2 types of OD on the Lanngraff, and one type with the 250+. How do I get ALL 3 types and how is it wired. I know the Landgraff goes in the Easter Egg, via switch, where/how do I add the existing 250+ OD?
Go ahead and pour yourself a cup when you answer.
Thanks again.

Old Newbie with a new addiction.

To do this you'll probably end up having to use a rotary switch. I don't think a DPDT will work. Give me a little bit of time to draw up a diagram and you'll see what I mean. Also, you'll definitely have to rehouse you pedal in a larger enclosure if you end up deciding to do this with a rotary switch.

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Keep 'yer tips tinned, 'yer sponges wet, and TELL THEM KIDS TO SHUT THE HELL UP!!!

Thanks again, Mantas. I could have sworn I read somewhere that you could use 2 switches to get what I'm after, (the 250+'s sound, or, the Landgraff, not both at the same time) and I'd rather not spend for another bigger box when I'm saving,(hideing cash from the little woman) to get either the Chorus kit, Mouse kit, or Optical compressor kit. I think I'll maybe just go with the Landgraff. This decision is just bassed on hearing about the mod, but not actually hearing it. Could you tell me what it sounds like?, (808od, Fulltone OCD, Boss DS...etc...). All subjective, I know. Just your oppinion.

Old Newbie with a new addiction.

Hi,

The easter egg holes and the regular 250+ diode holes are in two different places in the circuit. The easter egg setup is in a feedback path in the op-amp section. The regular diode holes are after the op-amp section and connected to give hard clipping (to ground/AC ground). I am not an expert on what is the best sound but if I was doing the mod you are talking about I wouldn't use the easter egg holes. I remember someone trying that and not liking it and when they switched the landgraff stuff to the regular diode holes it sounded much better to them.

I do not have time to draw you a diagram but what I think you want is a DPDT on/on switch coming out of the regular 250+ diode holes that is wired with the regular clipping diodes on one side and the other side goes to the DPDT on/on/on switch wired for the landgraff configurations.

Yeah. This would work. You'd just need one regular DPDT switch and one on/off/on DPDT switch. I can't believe I hadn't thought of this before. Two DPDT switches will fit too because I built one of these this way.

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Keep 'yer tips tinned, 'yer sponges wet, and TELL THEM KIDS TO SHUT THE HELL UP!!!

Wait, how did you make yours?

Thanks to all. I'm waiting for parts for this mod. When I complete it per the last post w/2 switches, I'll let everyone know what's what. I would, in the mean time, Greatly appeciate a diagram.
Again, thanks for the patience.

Old Newbie with a new addiction. "I FED THE MONKEY BUT IT'S ASS KEEPS GETTIN' REDER!"

OkeeDokee Artichokee! Here's a diagram for what I think you're asking for. This Let's you keep your stock clipping and still get the 3-way Landgraff switching mod. This mod give you four different options for clipping. If you don't want the "Clean Boost/Diode Lift" feature for the Landgraff switch, use a regular ON/ON DPDT switch instead of an ON/OFF/ON DPDT switch. Hope this helps:

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Keep 'yer tips tinned, 'yer sponges wet, and TELL THEM KIDS TO SHUT THE HELL UP!!!

Thank you, sir. I'll keep ya' posted.

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Old newbie with a new addiction.
"Everybody's got somethin' to hide 'cept for me 'n my monkey"