Build Your Own Clone Message Board

ok, i have a few questions about adding a few rotary switches to my screamer.

1) does anyone have a mouser or smallbear part number for germanium transistors?

2) does anyone have a part number for a 6-position rotary switch? i want to switch between 1n914, 1n4001, 2 x 1N4001, Germanium, Yellow LED, and no diode. i may even want to add LED's as status indicators.

3) what are some other values i could put in to affect the mid hump, besides the two included in the kit? i'd like (if possible) 2 caps between the kit values, also one higher, and one lower, for a total of six.

also, does anyone know a mod to increase gain?

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safe? who said anything about safe? of course He isn't safe! but He's good. He's the king i tell you!

I can't help you with most of that, but wouldn't increasing the value of the gain pot up the gain. That's an odd thing to ask though, I think mine's too gainy as it is, I have the gain down to zero! (most of the time anyway)

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Pfft, what kind of loser takes the time to make a signature?

i can help a little with number 3. i'm not sure about part numbers, but some other values to try for the mid-hump mod would be (in order highest to fullest): .022uF, .047 (stock), .068uF, .1uf, .22uF(BYOC cap) and .33uF (or.47uF).

d

oooh, cool. thanks. that sounds perfect.

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safe? who said anything about safe? of course He isn't safe! but He's good. He's the king i tell you!

yeah, but i am hoping to run mine as more of a high gain pedal.

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safe? who said anything about safe? of course He isn't safe! but He's good. He's the king i tell you!

no problem. also, to increase gain, lower the 4.7k resistor to ground in the feedback loop to something like 2.2k. it will affect the bass response of the caps in the mid-hump mod though. according to GEOFEX, if you half the resistor then double the cap to keep the same bass/treble response. or you can try a 1M pot in place of the stock gain pot, i've never tried this one but i've read in a number of places that it would theoretically work.

d

1 - SBE Ge Transistors Go to page 2 to see non-specific, single transistors. Steve is very helpfull and will point you in the right direction if you let him know what you're trying to do.

2 - 1P 2-12T Rotary Switch It's adjustable for 2-12 throws.

3 - Mr. C already covered values, but check out this secret weapon,
Capacitor Substitution Box You stick it in where the cap goes and try different values until it sounds like what you want it to. It's a bit limited since it only goes up to 0.1 uf, but that can be changed. They also carry a resistor sub box that is just as usefull. LED too bright? Plug in the Rsub box and dial in the perfect brightness. Of course, you can always use a pot for resistors.

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

acually i was looking for germanium diodes, not transistors. but that other stuff is great!

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safe? who said anything about safe? of course He isn't safe! but He's good. He's the king i tell you!

1N34A

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*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

small doesn't seem to have one... is 1n270 the same thing?

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safe? who said anything about safe? of course He isn't safe! but He's good. He's the king i tell you!

According to NTE it's similar but not exact... NTE crossreferences the NTE110MP for the 1n34a and NTE109 for the 1n270.

Here's the NTE109 Data Sheet

Here's the NTE110MP Data Sheet

The spec's are slightly different, but I don't know if that translates into a sounds different or not... Keith, Dan-O, Kahel...???

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I... have become... uncomfortably numb...

ok, i think i have a problem. here is a diagram of how i wired my switch:



i did two switches like this and was planning to use one to replace each diode spot on the screamer board. i wanted the configuration to go:

1) Stock 1N419
2) Mild Assymetrical 1N4001
3) Medium Assymetrical 2 x 1N4001
4) Germanium
5) Yellow LED
6) no diode (comp-cut like on the Fulldrive).

i think i wired it wrong. i wired it as shown, but for the 2 x 1N4001's, don't they need to be in series, not in parallel, like i showed?

if so, that stinks because i have both switches wired and clipped and just need to install them. it will be hard to uninstall the diodes if that is necesary...

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safe? who said anything about safe? of course He isn't safe! but He's good. He's the king i tell you!

bump, dude.

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safe? who said anything about safe? of course He isn't safe! but He's good. He's the king i tell you!

Sorry about the transistors. The Bear has the Germanium Diodes as well for future reference.

You probably want Keith or Kahel to really help with the diode thing. What I've done in the past when messing with the diode configurations is to draw out the board traces on paper to make sure everything is going in the right direction. I believe that each time you add a diode, it's polarity should be reversed, but I might be wrong. Are you keeping one 1N914 in the bottom position on the board and using the switch to add different combos to that? Or is the board space empty? If you have the 1N914 on the board and are adding diodes with the switch, the pole of the switch should be connecting to the striped side of the diode on the board.

I think that one of the 1N4001's in position 3 needs to be reversed and you need to double check which way the polarity of your wires from the switch to the board are running.

Best of luck.

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

Since I don't know where you're coming from or going to, I don't see what you're trying to do here.

Aron's page store is a good place to get those 1N34A diodes btw:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/cart/

K

i plan to replace each of the two 1N419's with the switch that i drew earlier. that way i can clip the top or bottom however i want.

i ordered all the parts, and have already wired the switch how i drew it two posts ago.

my questions is about the 1N4001's. do they HAVE to be in series, or will parallel like i drew it work?

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safe? who said anything about safe? of course He isn't safe! but He's good. He's the king i tell you!

It will "work" but differently than you planned it. In general, two diodes in series creates softer clipping, two in parallel should also soften the clipping but probably more so... you may be fine.

K