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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 6:35 am 
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Thanks for clarifying. Much appreciated.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 9:53 am 
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Thanks for this very helpful post!!! I'm about to build the OD2 and wanted to check in on a few things before moving forward. I'm a noob (this is my second build), so am proceeding cautiously.

What specific components should I switch out to do the MOSFET input buffer conversion?

I'm having a hard time identifying which trimpot is which. I'm looking with a magnifying glass, but don't see any markings that correspond with those on the instructions. Is there something I should look for?

I am also doing the MOSFET clipping conversion. I read (on this thread) that you only need to add the two BS170s (backward) instead of the LEDs, but am wondering about how the sound is affected if I switch out the other three (Q1, Q2, and Q3 on the diagram you posted by Stephen)?

Thanks again for the great information. I'm good with a soldering iron, but as you can tell from my questions, am a dunce when it comes to circuit boards.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 10:46 am 
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The MOSFET buffer components are shown on page 32 & 33 of the build document. The components are highlighted in yellow for the input and blue for the output.

The trim pot values should be on each trimmer. Are you sure you’re looking at all sides of the trimmer? The 10K should be marked with a 103 somewhere. This is code for 1 and 0 followed with 3 zeros. So you would have 10,000 or 10K ohms. The 50K would be marked 503 for 5 and 0 followed with 3 zeros or 50,000 or 50K

Q1, 2 & 3 are not clippers. Q1 and 2 are the buffer transistors. Q3 is the MOSFET boost.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 3:19 pm 
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Thanks Stephen. That all makes perfect sense now.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2015 5:44 pm 
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Hey everyone,

I've bought the od2 kit along with the mosfet conversion kit. I decided to get the sockets recommended in this article (http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merch ... y_Code=SOC), and I can't figure out how the sockets are supposed to be installed.

I bought a 20 pack, and each time I try to separate one socket from the row, the black plastic casing breaks off. Is the plastic supposed to stay on each socket, or am I supposed to remove the black plastic and use the raw metal?

I've searched Google, YouTube, SparkFun and other places for tutorials, and can't find one.

Thanks in advance for any help!


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2015 6:41 pm 
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Yeah, it's a little tricky. While the black plastic insulation doesn't absolutely have to stay on the socket, it makes them easier to handle & solder, and also helps avoid contact shorts. What I find works well is to take an exacto knife or utility knife and score the groove on either side of the strip repeatedly until you either cut through or it snaps off with minimal force.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 3:58 pm 
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Thanks so much voodooman!

Besides the diodes, are there other parts of the circuit you'd recommend using sockets for, to a/b between the stock and mosfet components?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 9:14 am 
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If you want to go nuts with it, you can socket all of the component positions that change between the stock and MOSFET versions--see the diagrams on pages 7 & 9 of the instructions. I'm not sure it's worth all that effort, but if you want to experiment with all the permutations, that's how to do it.

If you haven't read through it already, I'd suggest checking out the third post in this thread--it gets into the details of the function of the trimpots, which you can also experiment with, and the stock vs. MOSFET conversion options.

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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2016 9:29 pm 
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Hey again folks: so I finally got around to building my OD2 (with the mosfet mod kit), and while the tone is great, I'm struggling with how much of a volume boost occurs when I flip on the pedal (with the boost side off).

I like to be able to use the pedal to add break up, and have the volume be in the same ballpark (maybe a small boost) as with the pedal off. In order to do this, the volume knob has to be below 9pm, at which point the tone gets pretty wrecked. At 12 o'clock, there is a pretty massive volume boost that is too loud for most situations (and this is all with clipping of some sort engaged with the bottom switch).

Is it possible I did something wrong? Or if not, is there a part substitution so that I can have a more useable volume range. If I had my druthers, 12pm would be unity gain, with room to boost or cut the level, but right now unity gain is with the volume knob almost completely off, where the tone becomes unusable muddy.

Thanks in advance!!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 8:06 am 
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No, you did nothing wrong. The volume sensitivity that you mention is exactly why I always switch the level pots for the boost and overdrive sides of the OD2. The audio taper A100K will roll on the overdrive volume more slowly and make it more usable, IMO. And the B100K linear pot seems to work well for the boost stage.

If you decide to switch them now that the pedal is built, the de-soldering of the pots is the trickiest part. I strongly recommend using both a "solder sucker" and good quality de-soldering braid to get the pots out without damaging the PCB eyelets. I find the sucker works well to remove the bulk of the solder, and the braid is useful for soaking up the last bits holding the pot leg in the eyelet. Be careful not to force the legs of the pot out of the eyelet--that's how to cause damage.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 11:49 am 
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Went out and got some solder braid to give this a go, used the pump first, then the braid, but these pots won't move. Any other tips or suggestions?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 12:15 pm 
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After I get the main plug of solder out with the sucker, I then move around the eyelet with the braid wedged between the solder iron tip and the solder joint, concentrating wherever I see solder adhering between the pot leg and the eyelet. I find it helps to actually "prime" the braid with a little fresh solder on the tip of the iron, to get just a bit of solder impregnating the weave of the braid--it seems to draw in the solder from the joint more effectively that way. When the section of braid you're using gets fully impregnated, then clip it off and start with a section of new braid, primed with a bit of solder as described above.

When it appears that the joint is essentially dry, try prying/bending the leg away from wherever it's still adhering, using the hot iron tip. Eventually, it will come free and just be "floating" in the eyelet--then move on to the next leg. When you get all the eyelets for the pot into this condition, the pot will literally fall out of the PCB. Takes a bit of time and patience, but I've de-soldered dozens of pots this way.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 3:02 pm 
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Voodoo Man:

Thanks for the tips and help -- will try your tips next time I have this dilemma. But before I saw your reply, I resolved the situation, as follows:

Since I couldn't de-solder the pot legs to get them out of the PCB, I ended up using needle-nose pliers to break the pot bodies off, which then made the legs incredibly easy to remove, one at a time, from the PCB. I connected the pots to the PCB with some of the wire included with the kit, and I have to say, this actually makes assembly **way** easier, as you can solder the pots to the board without worrying about whether the pot shafts line up with the enclosure holes (since the pots are wire-connected to the PCB, you can just move them around until they fit through the holes).

After wiring everything back up with the A100k and B100k pots swapped, the volume is now much more usable. To my ear, this suggestion of yours seems important enough to include as a "mod" suggestion in the kit build notes!

Thanks again voodoo -- much appreciated.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2016 5:08 pm 
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So, getting ready to build this pedal (will be my 3rd - the other two builds have gone very well). I have a couple of questions that are *not already discussed in this very handy thread.

1 - What, if any, advice would you have concerning the tantalum caps in the tone circuit? There's a bunch of information comparing the stock .22uf ones with the .15uf ones also included as optional in the kit. Any first hand observations, etc.?

2 - What socket type (and where can I find it) is appropriate for socketing the boost tranny? I'd like to favor the stock LBP type circuit with the option of substituting the BS170 in as needed. This was mentioned early in the thread - but not much in the discussion that followed.

edit - I think the "in-line socket strips" should work fine, no? Just break off what I need?

3 - (Okay, more than a "couple" of questions :-) ). Trimpots are mentioned extensively - but would love more "in my experience this has worked well" type advice for setting all three of them such that they "play nicely together."

4 - Lastly, you mentioned that swapping in 1M resistors vice the 511K ones also help preserve the high end (raising impedance, obviously) - have you found that alternate method to be "on a par" with using the mosfet input caps? Full disclosure, if the results are relatively similar, I think I'm leaning towards just swapping the resistors. This said, unless I've lost my marbles, unless this pedal is the first in the "guitar to pedal" lineup, this type of change shouldn't account for much change to an already buffered signal, correct?

I "think" I'm going this route for the build (just as an fyi):

1. Mosfet instead of LED clippers (sounds easy and would seem to make sense given the explanation above)
2. Input impedance mod (aka question 4 above - might not be something I mess with at all).
3. Socketed boost circuit with LBP gain stage planned for primary use. (would like the option to use mosfet boost)

On the fence:

4. Trimpot settings? (kinda want this close to stock, I "think")
5. Tantalum cap value change for tone circuit? (if it makes the tone circuit more useful without resulting in an ice-picky pedal, I might do it).


Cheers and thanks in advance - this thread has *really helped me start to sort through what I want to do with this pedal.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 6:36 pm 
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Bueller....bueller....

Anyone with some advice? I'd like to start soldering this up...


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 6:42 pm 
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vicenzajay wrote:
Bueller....bueller....

Anyone with some advice? I'd like to start soldering this up...

You might get more response with a new thread. (It's not wrong to post it here, and I see why you did. Just a thought.)

I'll tell you what I know, which ain't much. :)

Re: transistor sockets, yes, inline is what you want.

Re: trimpots, this is so subjective and they are so interactive that it's unlikely anyone will be able to give much more than what you've read above. Start them at stock settings and tinker.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 8:33 pm 
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vicenzajay wrote:
1 - What, if any, advice would you have concerning the tantalum caps in the tone circuit? There's a bunch of information comparing the stock .22uf ones with the .15uf ones also included as optional in the kit. Any first hand observations, etc.?
The 0.15's will give a brighter sound, and the 0.22's somewhat darker. The difference is not great, but definitely noticeable. Just depends on your preference. But a lot of TS users run the tone control to the bass side....just sayin'.

2 - What socket type (and where can I find it) is appropriate for socketing the boost tranny? I'd like to favor the stock LBP type circuit with the option of substituting the BS170 in as needed. This was mentioned early in the thread - but not much in the discussion that followed.

edit - I think the "in-line socket strips" should work fine, no? Just break off what I need?
Yes, use single in-lines.

3 - (Okay, more than a "couple" of questions :-) ). Trimpots are mentioned extensively - but would love more "in my experience this has worked well" type advice for setting all three of them such that they "play nicely together."
Read the first section of THIS POST a couple of times through. It explains the function/effect of the trimpots in some detail. The MAX pot is the one that's particularly important because it affects both the circuit gain and the amount of bass in the output. But these are trimpots, so play around with them to your heart's content.

4 - Lastly, you mentioned that swapping in 1M resistors vice the 511K ones also help preserve the high end (raising impedance, obviously) - have you found that alternate method to be "on a par" with using the mosfet input caps? Full disclosure, if the results are relatively similar, I think I'm leaning towards just swapping the resistors. This said, unless I've lost my marbles, unless this pedal is the first in the "guitar to pedal" lineup, this type of change shouldn't account for much change to an already buffered signal, correct?
Yeah, I would agree with your assessment there re: a buffer in front of the OD2. Unless you are really focused on maximizing your high end, I don't think these input buffer mods make a lot of impact.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 3:41 pm 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
vicenzajay wrote:
1 - What, if any, advice would you have concerning the tantalum caps in the tone circuit? There's a bunch of information comparing the stock .22uf ones with the .15uf ones also included as optional in the kit. Any first hand observations, etc.?
The 0.15's will give a brighter sound, and the 0.22's somewhat darker. The difference is not great, but definitely noticeable. Just depends on your preference. But a lot of TS users run the tone control to the bass side....just sayin'.

2 - What socket type (and where can I find it) is appropriate for socketing the boost tranny? I'd like to favor the stock LBP type circuit with the option of substituting the BS170 in as needed. This was mentioned early in the thread - but not much in the discussion that followed.

edit - I think the "in-line socket strips" should work fine, no? Just break off what I need?
Yes, use single in-lines.

3 - (Okay, more than a "couple" of questions :-) ). Trimpots are mentioned extensively - but would love more "in my experience this has worked well" type advice for setting all three of them such that they "play nicely together."
Read the first section of THIS POST a couple of times through. It explains the function/effect of the trimpots in some detail. The MAX pot is the one that's particularly important because it affects both the circuit gain and the amount of bass in the output. But these are trimpots, so play around with them to your heart's content.

4 - Lastly, you mentioned that swapping in 1M resistors vice the 511K ones also help preserve the high end (raising impedance, obviously) - have you found that alternate method to be "on a par" with using the mosfet input caps? Full disclosure, if the results are relatively similar, I think I'm leaning towards just swapping the resistors. This said, unless I've lost my marbles, unless this pedal is the first in the "guitar to pedal" lineup, this type of change shouldn't account for much change to an already buffered signal, correct?
Yeah, I would agree with your assessment there re: a buffer in front of the OD2. Unless you are really focused on maximizing your high end, I don't think these input buffer mods make a lot of impact.

Thanks - this really helps. I had read that post quite a few times already, just was looking for more personal advice on how *you like to run them. It's all good - I'm going to put them as close as I can to the stock settings and just leave them there, I think.

I also think I'm going to stick with the stock value tantalum caps. Raising treble would, I think, also accentuate hiss type noise in the circuit, no? I'll pass with regard to that "benefit".

Read the entire thread one more time - and I want to make sure I understand how to make the boost circuit "swappable" between mosfet and LBP circuit. I take it that all the different components need to be socketed, no? The boost circuit seems to require more than just the tranny swap. If so, I might skip it. I have the strip sockets and the extra mosfet BS-170s (4 of them total in order to have a spare) coming, but maybe I'll punt for now.

Lastly - I understand that I need to swap the level pots between the OD and Boost circuits? That what the posts above seem to indicate, but that seems like a fairly significant change to the instructions that I want to be doubly clear about going forward.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 6:07 pm 
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vicenzajay wrote:
Thanks - this really helps. I had read that post quite a few times already, just was looking for more personal advice on how *you like to run them. It's all good - I'm going to put them as close as I can to the stock settings and just leave them there, I think.
I like to run my TS overdrive circuits with more max. gain than the stock circuit gives, so I reduce the resistance setting for the MAX trimpot to 2.35Kohms, basically doubling available gain. But that also affects the EQ section of the circuit, so I change the three caps from 47n/47n/150n to 100n/100n/330n, so that the three settings of the EQ toggle switch end up very close to the stock build. I also lower the resistance of the MIN trimpot to about 10K, to get the minimum gain setting a bit cleaner than you'd have with the stock set-up. Lastly, I run the LOUDER trimpot between 2 - 3K, a bit higher than the classic TS circuit, but still well below where it can cause unpleasant tonal artifacts.

I also think I'm going to stick with the stock value tantalum caps. Raising treble would, I think, also accentuate hiss type noise in the circuit, no? I'll pass with regard to that "benefit".
Doesn't make all that much difference except at the extremes of the tone pot, and most of us rarely go there anyway.

Read the entire thread one more time - and I want to make sure I understand how to make the boost circuit "swappable" between mosfet and LBP circuit. I take it that all the different components need to be socketed, no? The boost circuit seems to require more than just the tranny swap. If so, I might skip it. I have the strip sockets and the extra mosfet BS-170s (4 of them total in order to have a spare) coming, but maybe I'll punt for now.
You would need to socket three resistor positions and two diode positions in the boost stage, in addition to the transistor. I much prefer the LBP boost anyway, so skipping it makes perfect sense to me.

Lastly - I understand that I need to swap the level pots between the OD and Boost circuits? That what the posts above seem to indicate, but that seems like a fairly significant change to the instructions that I want to be doubly clear about going forward.
You don't "need" to swap the level pots, but I think it makes them more useful to have the linear taper (ramps up faster) on the boost side and the log taper on the overdrive. It doesn't change the minimum or maximum pot settings, just the sweep profile in between those extremes.

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