Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Inspired by Dano's ScreamerLab, I decided to incorporate what I thought I could fit into the stock enclosure.
Diode mod: 10 diode switches. 2x914's, 1x4001, 1x34A and 1xLED for each channel.

A Dark/Bright switch mod: .022 tant cap / 0.1uf film cap 1x DPST on/on switch
(not even sure if I have the right caps)
(Also, if this mod is yours, please let me know.)

The .047uF cap and .22uF cap "mid-hump" mod but with a pot instead of a switch. (Again, something of Dano's, I' think)

Changed the 25k Tone Pot to 2k.

Future mods:
Op Amp Stack - 3x DPDT on/off switches for 3 OpAmps LM833, RC4558P, JRC4558D
I haven't wired this up yet because I need duplicate OpAmps to test, but I drilled the holes and placed the switches.

Change the 51k resistor to 1k resistor and the 4.7k to 100 ohm resistor.
Will try this later because I've heard it introduces more noise and I want a baseline before I start.

If you guys could look over this and let me know what needs changing, that would be great.
Of particular note: the 914 diodes... not sure if they are oriented correctly.
And I have each channel tied to the 1 and 2 diode spots with red and black wires on the same side... should this be reverse?
Should I jumper the 3rd diode spot?

I'm pretty sure I have the "mid-hump" mod wired correctly, but I'm not sure at all about the "dark/bright" switch.
These are the instructions I followed:
-Connect one lead from both caps to each other and to the PCB. Use either pad on the board. Polarity doesn't matter.
-Connect the other lead from each cap to the 2 outside poles (the .047 to one outside pole and the .1 cap to the other outside pole.
-Run a wire from the middle pole of the switch to the other spot for the cap on the PCB.
-Make sure everything is insulated well.
Is this correct?

Still working on a paint/decal scheme but I'm kinda liking the fluorescent green.

Thanks.
Mojo

Click on the thumbnails for larger images.
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I can't verify your mods for you but I can say this much. If this were my project, I'd put it in a 1590 sized enclosure or better. That's a lot of wires and switches - LOL.

_________________
Keep 'yer tips tinned, 'yer sponges wet, and TELL THEM KIDS TO SHUT THE HELL UP!!!

I took another look and I think one of your green-striped, glass/germanium diodes may be in backwards.

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Keep 'yer tips tinned, 'yer sponges wet, and TELL THEM KIDS TO SHUT THE HELL UP!!!

But then I wouldn't qualify for the beauty pageant.
Yea, it is kinda tight.
Most of what too so long was making sure everything fit.

Mojo

first, your diodes are not all pointing the right direction. you need to make sure that each anode is facing the next diodes cathode. in other words, all of the stripes should pointing the right way.

second, i think you may have wired the diodes to the wrong holes. you should be using these holes:



and jumper across the "X"ed out diode spot.

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safe? who said anything about safe? of course He isn't safe! but He's good. He's the king i tell you!

Thanks.
An easy fix.
Does it matter which direction they point relative to how they are wired to the board?
And should both "channels" point in the same direction?


Excellent.
So far, none of the wires except for the pots are soldered to the board.
I wanted to wait until I could confirm these things.

If anyone sees anything else, please feel free to let me know.

Mojo

what i did is wired two 6 position rotary switches. i hooked up both rotary switches EXACTLY the same, and just wired them opositely.

yes, direction matters. all diodes should point one way. the other set of diodes should all point the other way.

also, i am not sure if you will get any sound if the pots aren't wired up. you really want to hook everything up, if you're gunna do a sound check.

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safe? who said anything about safe? of course He isn't safe! but He's good. He's the king i tell you!

Bump.
Mojo

Hey all;
I have a question regarding where on the board to attach the wire that runs to the diodes. Fuzzdawg has a jumper between the two red Xs and uses both (either?) of the other 2 diode positions, which are in yellow circles.
In the Mod section, in the "Big List of Verified Mods", the first mod posted is the Landgraff mod, which is a diode selector. That mod has the wiring going from the smallest diodes (914) to the switch and specifically states leave all diode spaces empty on board.
Is the jumper needed? I'm exectly to that point in the build.
Thanks
Red

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If you plant ice
you're gonna harvest wind

I took out the "Dark/Bright" mod, since I wasn't even sure if it was working.
Soldered a footswitch wire I missed and plugged it in.
The bypass works, I can hear my guitar, but when I switch it on, I get the led lighting up and hum.
I'll double-check all my connections tomorrow night and post picsl.
M