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PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 2:40 pm 
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Absolutely, as long as you don't plan to re-use the resistor.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 11:54 am 
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Pulled R10, and that seemed to fix the issue. Did have some issues with the switch when putting it back in (still not a fan of the whole daughterboard on switch interface) but once I got it back on it seems to be bypassing fine now.

Thanks again for all the help.

Chad


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 10:35 am 
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Is this still the issue with the BBOD kits that have been sold recently? I bought mine two weeks ago and have been using the online instructions. Seems that it is a 100k in R10. Should I upgrade to a 1M or just completely remove it. Does it matter?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 11:21 am 
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The new boards are fixed. Prolly says "Rev.1.1" on the PCB....

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 11:36 am 
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diceksox1809 wrote:
Should I upgrade to a 1M or just completely remove it.

Remove it.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 4:46 pm 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
The new boards are fixed. Prolly says "Rev.1.1" on the PCB....


Yeah it does. So I'm fine with the 100k in r10?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 5:00 pm 
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diceksox1809 wrote:
duhvoodooman wrote:
The new boards are fixed. Prolly says "Rev.1.1" on the PCB....


Yeah it does. So I'm fine with the 100k in r10?
Yes.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:22 am 
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I ran into the tone suck problem, diagnosed it, figured there must be a thread on the forum, and found this. It occurs to me that one possible reason for having R10 in place is to bleed any residual DC voltage from C8, minimizing any pops when turning the effect on. If this is the case, then either 100k or 1M should work fine when properly installed.

Mark


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