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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 7:58 pm 
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Location: Omaha, Nebraska
Hi there, I've never posted on here before but I've built a few projects from byoc, sadly the last few have seemed to have the same issue which makes me think I'm missing something obvious. I built a mouse last night and was extra cautious to make clean soldering joints. Once plugged in to power, bypass works fine but no signal passes when effect is engaged and the LED also doesn't light. This has happened with the last two kits I have built (5 knob compressor and ping pong delay). My first I built was the ESV fuzz and i had no problems despite really sloppy soldering. Can you guys help me sort this out? I don't have the electronics troubleshooting know how yet to handle this alone. I've double checked all my wiring in the power supply/footswitch section. It seems good to me, maybe I'm missing something. I've attached some pics of the mouse build below. I hope I can learn the error of my ways, I'm sure it's something really dumb I've skipped over.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5rxu-Jj97-hQ1J3R1VzVVd1TmM


Thank you for your help!

Bryce Hotz


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 8:14 pm 
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This is usually a good place to start with the kind of problem you describe: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188

Do you have access to a multimeter and know how to use one?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 8:51 pm 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
This is usually a good place to start with the kind of problem you describe: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188

Do you have access to a multimeter and know how to use one?


Thanks for the link, I did go back and reflow some solder joints that looked suspicious to me, but maybe I should do all of them over again. I wondered if there is such a thing as too little solder on a joint, there are a few where I was a little apprehensive about adding too much because solder pads were so close together. It seemed to me that as long as there was contact of some sort, it should pass signal, but maybe not if it's not strong enough? I do have a multi-meter, but I haven't used it very much yet. Electronics is a thing I've been interested in learning more of for the last couple of years, but life hasn't allowed me much time to focus on it. These kits seemed like an easy way to slide my way into it.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 5:57 pm 
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Location: Omaha, Nebraska
If power ran to the ic when it was plugged in backwards, would that destroy it? I noticed I accidentally put the ic in backwards and didn't catch it before i supplied the board with power. I have flipped it around to it's correct position, but maybe I fried the ic? Not sure how to check an ic to make sure it still functions. Do you have any other troubleshooting advice? I have resoldered everything and that didn't seem to be the issue. Thank you


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 6:44 pm 
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Location: Smithers, British Columbia Canada
looks like you might have the two positive wires on the dc jack reversed
edit: maybe not

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 6:59 pm 
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RiffRaff wrote:
looks like you might have the two positive wires on the dc jack reversed
edit: maybe not

I do believe I got that right, i have now found 9volts makes it to the ic in pins, im not great at reading schematics and it doesn't show pin numbers on this one, but should it still have 9v on the out pin? I think that is pin 6 and that is reading at 8.51v


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 5:36 pm 
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Whadawookie wrote:
If power ran to the ic when it was plugged in backwards, would that destroy it? I noticed I accidentally put the ic in backwards and didn't catch it before i supplied the board with power. I have flipped it around to it's correct position, but maybe I fried the ic?

That could definitely fry the chip. Sometimes you can get away with that, especially if it's only for a few seconds, but if it was in upside-down for more time than that, it's very likely a goner. You can get a replacement from BYOC for $5 + shipping cost: http://buildyourownclone.com/collection ... cts/lm308n

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 6:25 pm 
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Ah, bummer. I'll try that next. Thank you for the help.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 3:25 am 
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Hello,
i've decided to use this topic here as i didn't want to open a new one.

Finished my mouse build, bypass works, but when i switch to ON nothing comes out and LED is off.
I've already measured all the wirings and connections of the switch & jacks, they seem to be fine.
On ac jack: 9V betweed pos and ground.

but on the pcb side there's 0V between pos and ground. the problem is that ground has also 9V, compared with ground of ac jack. in fact i'm measuring 9V everywhere, on the whole enclosure, pcb ground, OUT pad, tip of output jack. However, there is NO connection between POS and ground on the pcb!
i cannot figure out if there's a short between POS and ground or the pedal is just not properly grounded.
do you have an advise how to proceed from here?

oh, and stereo input jack seems to be fine, since measurements are the same as on my other stereo jacks.
thx a lot in advance


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 5:50 am 
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Please start your own thread for your build’s problems. Just because your build has the same or similar symptoms as another does NOT mean they require the same fix. Include large photos that are well lit and most importantly in focus. Blurry pix are of no use to us when trying to help troubleshoot a build. Post pix of both sides of the PCB as well as clear shots of your wiring. A photo of a rat’s nest of wires going every which way are difficult to follow. Your pix need to be as if we had the pedal here in our hands to work on.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 7:47 am 
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Oh dang, I never followed up on here! So i did solve this problem a year and a half ago and it was a fried ic. I replaced it with a fresh one and wala!


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