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PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 5:36 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2006 11:28 am
Posts: 85
Location: los angeles, ca
just finished building the swede.

what works:
- the led
- bypass mode

what's happening:
- when circuit is engaged, i'm not getting any sound except for a very, very faint clicking sound

i've checked:
- the orientation and values of the diodes and the electrolytic caps
- the values of the resistors
- the orientation of the transitions and the ICs
- the jack wiring (checked continuity of each connection from jacks to board)
- the footswitch wiring (checked continuity of each connection from lugs to board)

i'm wondering about some very close solder points on the board. wondering if they're shorts or supposed to have continuity. i've circled them in the solder side picture. the lowest pair (diagonal) i scraped to break the continuity:
Attachment:
Swede_solderSide.jpg
Swede_solderSide.jpg [ 982.54 KiB | Viewed 3873 times ]


here's the component side:
Attachment:
Swede_componentSide.jpg
Swede_componentSide.jpg [ 758.76 KiB | Viewed 3873 times ]


here are the jacks:
Attachment:
Swede_jacks.jpg
Swede_jacks.jpg [ 666.27 KiB | Viewed 3873 times ]


any help is very much appreciated!!
-j


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 6:04 pm 
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None of those solder bridges are a problem--all of the pairs of eyelets you circled are connected on the PCB anyway. More on how to determine this here: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=54691

I don't see anything obviously wrong. Question: How did you differentiate the 120R resistor from the 10K's, since the color band pattern is not visually distinguishable?

This would be the next thing I'd try: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188

EDIT: Hopefully you didn't sever the PCB connection between those bottom two solder joints--I would check with a multimeter to be sure there is still continuity between them.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 6:29 pm 
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Location: los angeles, ca
duhvoodooman wrote:
EDIT: Hopefully you didn't sever the PCB connection between those bottom two solder joints--I would check with a multimeter to be sure there is still continuity between them.


thanks for the response. are you referring to the diagonal pair? i did break the continuity on that one. was that a mistake? thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 6:42 pm 
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jzilla wrote:
are you referring to the diagonal pair? i did break the continuity on that one. was that a mistake? thanks!

Yes, R8 and R10 on the labeled PCB diagram shown below. If you've cut the connection on the PCB, just "jump" them back together with a solder bridge. This might not solve your overall problem, but that connection needs to be made in any case.

Image

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 8:44 pm 
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will do. thanks so much!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:51 am 
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will start a new thread on suggestion of a mod


Last edited by Masochist77 on Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:57 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:55 am 
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Please start a new thread--we try to avoid "piggybacking" of multiple problems in the same thread. Even though the symptoms may be the same, the causes are very often different.

Also, the bottom 3/4 of that photo is terribly pixelated.....

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