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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 10:58 am 
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The foot switches on my Crown Jewel are seemingly doing nothing. The LED's don't light up and the pedal isn not working. I originally had the wrong relays in it when I first tried to test it. I had the TQ2-L-5V single coil latching relays in there, cause that's what I use on my finish line relay boards. I suspected that was the issue, so I put in some other orange colored NEC 551-EA2-5SNJ relays I had, and strangely enough, the LED's didn't light up but something was happening with the pedal. I could turn the knobs and get some distortion and the switches had an affect on it. It's almost like the pedal was working, but still the LED's were off and it it definitely didn't sound good like it's suppose to. I ordered my momentary switches and most of my parts from BYOC, but I was wondering about whether it's possible to have the wrong momentary foot switches. You know, the whole "NO" "NC" thing. My relay boards take TQ2-L-5V single coil latching relays and use Normally open momentary foot switches. So, is it possible the TQ2-5V non-latching relays need a different foot switch such as Normally Closed momentary?

I realized that they were supposed to be TQ2-5V non-latching relays and purchased and installed those, but nothing is still happening. I don't know if it's possible that I blew some parts in trying to use the wrong relays first, but I've changed almost all the chips and transistors out for new ones, and still nothing.

Another thing, is that one of the D9D diodes broke in half when I was beginning to socket them, so I had to just use the only other germanium transistors I had, which I don't know exactly what they are. The clear with blue stripes in my picts. So, I suspected that could be the issue and started trying to take DC voltage readings around the pedal to see if the voltage suddenly dropped out anywhere. IDK what I'm doing very much with the multimeter troubleshooting, but it was strange that around the bottom left of the board, there seemed to be no voltage. No voltage to either side of the germanium transistors. Can someone suggest other germanium transistors to try until the new D9D's I ordered arrive?

I saw in a post to measure the microprocessor legs and to see if leg one was getting 5V, and it was. Then it said that leg 2 should be getting 5V after you push the foot switch, but there was no voltage there. So, leading me back to thinking it's my switching or relays. Plus, the pedal was sort of working with the NEC 551-EA2-5SNJ relays, so I wasn't thinking it could be the germanium diodes as my real problem.

Sorry for the giant explanation, but just trying not to miss anything that could be important. The soldering in my picts looks dirty, cause I went through all of them with a probe and scraped away the melted plastic around them to make sure there were no bridges happening anywhere. There were none. The few places where two solder joints were joined, I made sure that they were suppose to be joined anyways, such as two diodes that are in series. I've thoroughly examined everything and there are no parts accidentally touching each other. I have the plastic dust caps on the pots, so they're not a problem. All my solder connections seem to be solid. I've been making pedals for some 15 years now with a high success rate. I think I've only found one bad solder connection once in my career with some 50-100 pedals made. I read all of the other posts on here with Crown Jewel problems and I don't believe I have any of the same problems. All of my switches are oriented correctly. Same with all of my parts that require orientation. The LEDs, diodes, electrolytic caps, IC's, and relays are all correctly oriented.

Anyways, I'm getting to be stumped and could use some advice on measuring places with my multimeter to help diagnose the problem. Here are some picts I took, but I'm not sure they'll help at all since my parts all seem to be installed correctly, and the fact that I use bigger tropical fish caps and AB resistors.

Oh, forgot to mention that I measure every part I can measure with my multimeter and scrape the leads clean of oxidation and what not before soldering. So, all my resistors and caps are measured, then immediately cleaned, and then I insert them into the board directly after that. Then, I bend the leads so they stay in place in the board. The likely hood of me installing a bad or incorrect valued cap or resistor is about none. Never done it before.


Last edited by pahurst2002 on Sat Mar 17, 2018 11:19 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 10:59 am 
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Here's some more picts:


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:47 pm 
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Don't worry about the germanium diodes--their function here is as signal clippers, and pretty much any pair of Ge signal diodes will work and sound the same (sorry, Bill Finnegan).

The first thing we need to establish is if you are getting the correct voltages where they need to be. I would suggest that you start by taking a full set of DC voltage measurements on the pins of the LT1054 charge pump (IC2), and the two dual op amps (IC4 and IC5). Refer to the labeled PCB diagram below for which IC is which. The square solder pad indicates pin 1 and you count around the perimeter of the IC counterclockwise in a "U" shape for the rest, so that pin 8 is directly across from pin 1. Please take these 3 sets of 8 voltage measurements and report your results here. DO THIS WITH THE PEDAL'S VOLTAGE TOGGLE SWITCH SET TO 18V.

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 2:08 pm 
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Thank you very much sir!
Here's my voltage measurements with the pedal set to 18Volts. I figured I might as well do the micro-controller while I was at it. One thing I noticed before, was that the light on one side lights up if I accidentally touch my positive probe to two things at once. I think, bridging leg one and two of the micro-controller, does it. I have also changed the micro-controller chip twice now, so I've had three different 12F609 chips in there, two 4558's and two LT072 chips. I don't think I have any more 1054's to try. Still, if the light goes on accidentally when bridging, and the fact that I had the pedal actually overdriving at one point (minus the LEDs), makes me wonder where the electricity is not getting past to power on the pedal / LEDs. Not to mention, I had the orange relays in there when it was sort of overdriving and the knobs and switches were kind of working.

IC2 (LT1054):
1 • 8.29V
2 • 4.56V
3 • 1mV
4 • -3.655V
5 • -8.06V
6 • 5.16V
7 • 4.98V
8 • 8.30V

IC4 (4558):
1 • 7.8V
2 • 7.8V
3 • 7.51V
4 • .5mV
5 • 8.37V
6 • 8.39V
7 • 8.41V
8 • 15.72V

IC5 (TL072):
1 • 7.79V
2 • 7.79V
3 • 7.03V
4 • .8mV
5 • 7.69V
6 • 7.79V
7 • 7.79V
8 • 15.72V

IC1 (12F609):
1 • 5.07V
2 • 4.9mV?
3 • .6mV?
4 • 5.06V
5 • 20.4mV?
6 • 9mv?
7 • 5.06V
8 • .6mV?

Thanks!
Let me know what you determine from the values above.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 2:55 pm 
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Those voltages look good. The only one that differs significantly from my own Crown Jewel is pin 6 of the LT1054 where I have ~3V, but that 's likely not significant.

Let's shift gears and look at whether or not you have circuit continuity on the input and output sides of the boost stage. I realize you don't have a boost module in the pedal right now, but you don't need one for this. It will show whether or not the relays are working. I already have this testing explained in another thread, so let me direct you there. Read through the first post in the link and do the testing as explained or post back here with any questions:

viewtopic.php?p=478049#p478049

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 7:01 pm 
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I wasn't quite sure which part of the other thread you wanted me to follow in testing mine, so I tried to do everything I could, besides that I need to make a probe for the probe tests.

I do have two boost modules I was testing it with before, but I just left them out for the pictures (Fuzz & Treble booster).
Sticking a wire into the boost module sockets and measuring the voltage:

+18V • 15.7V
4.5V • 3.91V
+9V • 8.3V
-9V. • -8.06V

I tried doing the resistance measurements from the tips of the input and output, to the I & O sockets of the boost module, but my boost and drive sides don't turn on with the push of the foot switches. So, nothing registered on my multimeter except for 0k or ohm.

Ohh, and as for the V shaped wire into the I and O sockets of the boost module, my pedal is seemingly always bypassed and putting through the dry guitar signal anyways, so nothing changes there. My board has never been put in an enclosure yet, but I tried touching the one probe of my multimeter to a different enclosure, but It's just 0k again there.

Let me know if I missed the tests you want me to do, or where to go from here.
Appreciate it!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 8:10 pm 
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Obviously, the PCB is from BYOC, but where did you get the ICs from?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 9:03 am 
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Anything I could purchase with the board from BYOC, I bought from you guys. So, all the Panisonic caps I used, the electrolytics, the ceramics, the B170's, the 2N3904's, the 1N4001 diode, the 1N4148 diodes, the D9D Diodes, and probably the red LEDs.

Most of the rest came from Mouser, the 1054 and 78L05. The relays came from Digi-Key. I got one micro controller off of eBay before I found out that Mouser had them. So, two of my 12F609's are from Mouser. Plus, I've had a bunch of 4558's and TLO72's that's I've purchased in the past from BYOC and not sure where else.


Last edited by pahurst2002 on Sun Mar 18, 2018 9:47 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 9:32 am 
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Are the 12F609 micro controllers that come in the kit from BYOC pre-programed by BYOC? Or, are they already programmed to do their function in this pedal straight from the store or manufacturer? I found this website below about programming your 12F609 to work in a relay setup.
If that's the case, then I just bought them from Mouser and stuck them in, so that would be the problem if they need to be specifically programmed.

http://www.coda-effects.com/2016/04/rel ... relay.html


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 10:49 am 
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pahurst2002 wrote:
Are the 12F609 micro controllers that come in the kit from BYOC pre-programed by BYOC? Or, are they already programmed to do their function in this pedal straight from the store or manufacturer? I found this website below about programming your 12F609 to work in a relay setup.
If that's the case, then I just bought them from Mouser and stuck them in, so that would be the problem if they need to be specifically programmed.

This is your problem exactly. BYOC programs the 12F609's to run the particular switching in the Crown Jewel. I'd suggest that you shoot an e-mail to nick@buildyourownclone.com and ask him how best to proceed. I know nothing about programming these controller chips, so I have no idea if this is something you could reasonably do yourself or not. And I don't know if they sell the pre-programmed chips apart from the CJ kit....but it couldn't hurt to ask!

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 11:09 am 
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Thanks!

I was pretty sure that was the issue when I came across that webpage about programming them.
I'll see what I can do and post the results as soon as I can get my hands on a programmed one.

Thank you very much for all of your help!


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