Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hi, I ordered a Silver Pony from Alchemy Audio but I need some help with the resistors. Some of them are brown and the colors don't match up with the instructions. I could probably just make a guess and say that the 4 of the same color are the 100k but there are three pairs of 2 that I wouldn't know which is which. Any help differentiating would be great.

The brown ones are 4-band coded instead of the 5-band coding on the blue ones. So they are, from top to bottom:

4K7
100K
560R
1K
1K8
10K

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks so much!

HTH! Reference info HERE, if you're interested. And don't pay much attention to the statement that the red (2%) tolerance band isn't used often, because four of these six are exactly that!

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

That definitely helps for the future!

I've seen a number of threads about troubleshooting the Silver Pony so I want to make sure I'm doing this correctly each step of the way. I just finished up with the resistors. Does everything look correct? I am a little concerned about bridging in the circled area.

You're good. They are already connected by a trace. In most cases, if the pads are that close together, you can bet they are on the same trace.

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If practice makes perfect, and nobody is perfect, then why practice?

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PCB is finished. Well except for the wires. Thought I'd ask for a look over by you experts while it's still out and easy to work on. Anyone see anything out of order?

Your 4u7 looks backwards


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Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

Yep, the 4.7uf electro halfway down the board on the right side, next to the IC socket, is installed backwards.

Also, the 47K resistor at R7 and the 4.7K at R14 are switched. See labeled PCB diagram below for these locations.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Ah I see that now. See, this is why I'm asking along the way. Thanks guys!

Check my last post again--I just edited it because I noticed two switched resistors.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Saw it, thanks. What's the best method for removal without damage to the board or the parts? I have a solder sucker if that will be any help here.

Solder sucker should do the trick. Set the board component side down, find the solder joints for the component to be removed, apply the iron until the solder melts, and suck it away. It might take a couple pumps to get it all out cleanly, and you might have to heat a joint as you gently pull the component from the other side, but with caps and resistors, it's really no sweat. It's when you get to components with more than two leads that it gets quite tricky.

My only caution is take your time and don't overdo the heat or yank the component out before the solder is removed.

_________________
Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

With 2-lead components, I generally just melt one joint, pull the component up on that side as far as it will go without forcing it, then melt the other joint, pull up on that side, etc. Go back and forth as many times as it takes to free both leads. Resistors are very easy--you can generally get them out with a single pull on each side. Caps usually take a bit of "back and forth" to pop them loose. Once the component is out, use the solder sucker to clean the residual solder out of the eyelet. Touch the tip of your iron to one side of the eyelet until the solder melts, and then apply the suction tip to the other side.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

You guys rock. Thanks again for all the help. Got those components switched and added the wiring. Now I just need to figure out how I'm going to finish the enclosure before I do anymore work.

My two cents regarding the resistors - which I guess applies to other circuit components too: When in doubt, use a multi-meter to verify the value. Don't have one? Stop what you are doing. Do not pass go. Visit your nearest Harbor Freight, big box hardware store, Amazon.com, etc. and buy one. You'll need it. It doesn't have to be expensive either. Heck, even the model they give away free (with a coupon) at Harbor Freight will suffice. While it's useful (and perhaps fun?) to memorize resistor color codes, I wouldn't personally trust that method for beginner builds. Yours looks great so far, by the way!

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Johnny Balmer
Alchemy Audio
http://www.alchemy-audio.com

Sound advice, no pun intended! If you're planning to do even an occasional DIY electronics project, a multimeter is an essential tool.....

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks so much! I'm assuming you the one who I bought this kit from?

I actually do have a multi-meter but it never occurred to me to use it to verify values of components. I'm still a newb at this and learning a ton each build. How do you use it for this purpose?

Yep, that was purchased from me.
There are several YouTube tutorials that will walk you through the process. I didn't see any that stood out among others - perhaps someone else has a favorite they can recommend.

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Johnny Balmer
Alchemy Audio
http://www.alchemy-audio.com

Silver Pony is finally almost finished! I used waterslides for the first time so it took a while to get everything I needed ordered. It's plain but true to the original and I love it!



The only issue is the LED is constantly lit up. The switch works as it should and turns the effect on and off but the LED it lit up no matter what. What could be the cause of that? I'm also some hiss when the pedal is engaged. Not much but at louder volumes it could be an issue.

Looks good! Man, that is one beefy 330n cap in the upper right corner!

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Hey thanks man! Haha, that is a beefy cap.

Have you check for any solder bridges around the led?


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_________________
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

The LED itself isn't bridged, at least not on the top side could a bridge elsewhere be the culprit?