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I just finished building the Crown Jewel it works but when the clipper switches are engage there is a sizeable loss of volume.
Any suggestions on how to correct this would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Sorry, but that's how signal clipping works. A portion of your audio signal is "clipped" off and shunted to ground, so there is an accompanying volume loss. The lower the voltage threshold of your clipping diodes, the greater the volume loss. LED's only lose a little volume; germanium diodes lose a lot.

There's a good description of the process here: http://www.geofex.com/effxfaq/distn101.htm About all you can do is adjust your volume at the pedal, guitar or amp.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

On one hand it makes me feel better in that I apparently built it properly, on the other hand now I'm still looking for
a dirt pedal that's just right. The volume disparity between the various switch settings is a bit of a deal breaker for me.
Seymour Duncan Twin Tube Blue was close, Strymon Sunset was close. I guess the search for the ultimate dirt pedal
continues maybe when Strymon releases their Big Sunset by the Riverside mud bank I'll have all that I want. For now
i'll see about modding the Jewel I guess. I still have the Twin Tube Blue because I decided never to sell another pedal
I'm happy with after selling my original Tube Screamer.

You do realize that every dirt pedal ever made that uses clipping diodes would do the exact same thing if it had switches to change the type of clippers used in the circuit, right?

_________________
"It’s your soldering."

I get the hole clipping thing loss of volume. Most pedals I've owned don't cover as much ground as the Crown Jewel with the exception
of the Strymon Sunset which handles clipping digitally so switching between clipping types kept my levels pretty consistent. After playing
for a few hours with it last night I found lots of tones I like, I'll just have to right down my settings. Don't get me wrong it's not that I don't
like the Crown Jewel but after 30 something years of buying and trying dirt pedals I thought by now I would have reached nirvana. This is the
second pedal I've made the first being a multi switch for my Time line. So in that respect it was more satisfying than some gear I had over
the years. Thanks for the help and quick replies it's much appreciated. I think I'll try to mod it some how and see what that does for me.

There isn't a volume loss. There is a volume boost when you switch to LED clipping or no clipping. Maybe it will help if you think of it that way.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Is there any way that I could use two modules on the boost side with a
toggle Switch to select A or B. I would put the whole pedal in a bigger
enclosure and Maybe add the paralyzer circuit from PMK pcbs to blend them.
Maybe your parametric OD as well. I'd like a dry wet blend as well, PMK has
a board for this as well.

Is there a way? Sure. And it's not all that hard to do. Here's how I would do it, but there are probably other ways:

I would get two of the BYOC Experimenter boards to use for the switchable boost modules, since they're all set up for the 4-pin sockets and headers. (Don't forget to get an extra set or two of the 4-pin female sockets.) Assuming that you want the flexibility to run ANY of the BYOC modules in the two extension boards, you'll need to run wires for the five power-related connections (ground, +9V, +18V, -9V and +4.5V) from the main board to the two extension boards. I'd remove the 4-pin female sockets from the CJ and use those eyelets to run the wires over to the two boards. Next, run the boost input and output connections from the CJ board to the poles of a DPDT footswitch (or a 3PDT if you want to have indicator LED's to show which boost is active) and then wire the extension board inputs and outputs to the the two sets of throws. You'll have to work out the mounting of the two extension boards and the toggle switch for your particular enclosure, but that should do the job. Actually, I think you'll spend more time laying out and drilling a new enclosure than you will doing the extension board work! And you're on your own for the PMK stuff....

EDIT:

(1) The more I think about it, the more I'm convinced that doing a new enclosure for the whole shebang will be a HUGE PITA--so many holes to be drilled requiring very accurate placement to get the pots & switches to align correctly. You might be better off mounting the extension boards, boost module selection footswitch, and selection indicator LED's in a separate enclosure, drill holes in the sides of it and the CJ enclosure to run the wire connections through, and then glue, screw, or bolt the enclosures together side to side.

(2) Since matching output volumes is part of your objective, as I understand it, it occurs to me that you'll probably want to install separate volume controls for the two extension boards rather than use the common control in the CJ. That will complicate things a bit more, but not unduly so. You could leave the common control in as a "master boost volume" or just bypass it completely.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

The part you say will be a pita I've done before for other peoples projects so getting a
precise hole lay out doesn't worry me. I was more concerned about getting the female
and male headers I don't see them listed in the store and then whether they could be
hooked up in parallel to the existing board with a switch. Can the trim pots on the various
modules be hooked up to a regular pot of the same value I could then control the modules
from top side. I'm looking at a Hammond 1590DD or 1590XX to give me more room to
house it all. The volume thing I'm over that I just want to see if I can make this thing
even more versatile than it is now. By the way this forum is cool musicians and gear heads
are always very helpful. It almost makes me feel like this planet still stands a chance. Time to
start ordering stuff.

All you need to do to get the headers is to place the order for the Experimenter boards and whatever other parts you're getting from BYOC, then contact sales@buildyourownclone.com, reference the order #, and explain that you need the headers. I'm sure they can take care of that for you.

I think the issue with substituting an external pot for the trimpot on the various modules will be that different modules use different value trimpots.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I would make sure I had the value of pot correct they are listed in the parts
section of each module. I think I would try it out with alligator clips first just
to make sure it was worth the trouble. The sweet spot on the module pots
Is pretty tight, I'm guessing because the travel on the pot is so tiny. That
Being said it does"not hurt to try.

We've made a dry blend add-on board kit. We should be releasing it here pretty soon. It's just a dry blend for the drive channel though. It won't blend or mix the two channels.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

I think that sounds like a useful add on board. I'd be interested in trying it out.

Just found an issue with the mids pot it makes the signal
Go quiet between 1 and 3 o clock. Any suggestions. I tried
Re flowing the solder because a couple of the lugs looked
Suspect but it's still doing the same thing. Dirty pot maybe?