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PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 6:41 am 
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Hello guys, my crown jewel seems not to work as intended since it produced a sound similar to a sinewave when I play around with the mid pot. Turning the mid freq. pot actually change the pitch of this so-called sinewave. Changing the mid band Q does it too. If I turn the mid pot down, the sinewave dissapear. Changing from 9v to 18v seems to interact a bit with the sinewave in terms of volume, but changing the clipping method does nothing to that when the pedal is on
BUT
when the pedal is bypassed, I can still hear the sinewave if a hard clipping is choosen, whether it be the silicium or germanium one. In this situation, turning the mid and mid freq pot still change the pitch
I must add that I wonder if my soft clip si'nt broken, since it is a bit harder to turn it from the right to the left in comparison to the hard clip switch

In addition to this, my boost does not work properly, since I have a huge volume drop when I turn it on, regardless of the position of the boost. All I got is a popping noise when it turn it off/on

Here are some pics :

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 9:33 pm 
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This would be a good place to start: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 3:54 am 
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Well I have reflow my board twice so far and it have not fixed the issue. Plus my soft clip switch seems definitely broken since it stay locked on the right. The issues are still the same


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:19 pm 
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OK, here's a couple of things:

1) I'd suggest going through the build and cross-checking each of the resistors against the PCB diagram on page 7 of the instructions. There are a few resistors that are hidden behind other components in your photo, and I find it hard to differentiate between the red and brown color bands on several of the others. The 1K (102) and 10K (103) resistors are particularly hard for me to distinguish in the photo. Make sure they're all correctly placed.

2) I see at least one resistor placement mistake that I'm quite sure about: Looks to me like you have the 33K (333) at R24 switched with the 3.3K (332) at R33. Refer to Stephen's labeled PCB diagram below for these positions. Assuming I'm correct, those need to be swapped around to the correct positions.

3) Does the overdrive portion of the pedal still act the same way if you run it with no module installed in the boost stage?

4) Try removing and re-seating all four of the IC's. Make sure they're fully inserted all the way down and that they aren't crooked in the socket.

5) What kind of charge pump IC came in your kit? Is it a 7660 or a 1054?

6) Do you have access to a multimeter and know how to use one?

6) Sounds like your soft clipping toggle switch definitely needs to be replaced. That's a PC-mount on-off-on SPDT mini-toggle.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 9:22 am 
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Ok I took the time to do what you said and the pedal seems to works fine now, apart from the problem with the soft clipping switch. Chances are that the resistances you mentionned was causing the issue, as well as the IC's being not fully in place into the sockets.

But I still have a problem with the boost of the pedal. If I place the boost first, the amount of distortion drop significantly ( I tried this with the gain up to maximum ) and the background noise (which is usual in any distortion pedal) is boosted quiet a bit. I have no volume drop in that configuration
If I place the boost last, I have a loss in volume and distortion


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 11:27 am 
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Sounds like the Crown Jewel itself is squared away now. Have you fully tested all the features on the OD side of the pedal now, other than the broken switch?

Obviously something is amiss on the boost module. If you haven't re-flowed all of the solder joints on the module board, I would do that next. If there's no improvement, I would suggest testing the voltages on the four incoming power connections (+9, +18, +4.5 and -9V); just use the solder joints on the top of the module board as your test points. Do you have access to a multimeter and know how to use one? Also check for continuity between the module ground connection and the enclosure.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 7:58 am 
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Ok I have reflowed every single joints of the boost PCB. Since I do have access to a multi-meter and have a basic understanding of how to use it, I have checked the connection between each incoming power and the multimeter have show each time that signal was passing through. I also had continuity between the bosst PCB and the enclosure. But It still doesn't work like it should. What could be the issue?

By the way, yes I have tried all the features of the OD side of the pedal and there's nothing to complain about, the pedal seems ok


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 8:44 am 
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So? Does any of you guys have an idea about what could be wrong about my build?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 7:56 pm 
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karish63 wrote:
Since I do have access to a multi-meter and have a basic understanding of how to use it, I have checked the connection between each incoming power and the multimeter have show each time that signal was passing through.

I want to make sure I understand what you're saying here. Did you take actual DC voltage readings on the solder joints of each of the four incoming voltage connections on the top of the boost module?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 2:42 pm 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
I want to make sure I understand what you're saying here. Did you take actual DC voltage readings on the solder joints of each of the four incoming voltage connections on the top of the boost module?

Ok it seems like I have not actually mesured the right thing. I have googled that and what I can tell you now is :

- I have picked my multimeter, and choose the DC voltage reader (the V with a straight line right?), plugged the black into COM and the red into V/ohm/mA
- Then I have chosen the 20 in the DC voltage section an tried to mesure by sticking one tip on the -9 of the boost module and the other tip onto the four other joints

And all I got was -0.00 as a mesure. I tried to switch to the 200 mode in the DC voltage, and also the 2000m, but I had -0.00 each time.

Something's going wrong right?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 3:19 pm 
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I find the easiest way to check with a DMM is with a clamp lead on your negative probe then attached to the negative terminal of the 9 volt dc adaptor plug (make sure you don't short the positive and negative terminals.) You can also put this terminal on the ground terminal of the boost header. (the tree symbol)

From here turn your boost on and use the positive lead from the multimeter, placing it one at a time at each of the header terminals on the boost module - they should read the intended voltage as per the schematic. ie. -9 volts, 18 volts, +9 volts, 4.5 volts

You can also check the ground side of the boost module by placing the negative on the 9 volt negative terminal and the positive on the ground terminal of the boost header - this should read 0 volts.

Post these voltages.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 6:52 am 
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Ok, so by sticking the negative probe on the negative of the DC adapter and checking the joints of the headers with the positive probe, i have found these voltages :

+18 : 16.5
4.5 : 4.2
+9 : 8.6
-9 : -8.44

I had the same results when mesuring the voltages with the negative probe was on the ground. But here's something interesting : when mesuring the voltage between the ground and the -9 volt, my multimeter have display the value of 8.3, could this be the problem?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:26 am 
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karish63 wrote:
...
-9 : -8.44...
...when mesuring the voltage between the ground and the -9 volt, my multimeter have display the value of 8.3, could this be the problem?



If you see a positive voltage there with the black probe to ground, and the red probe to the -9v pin, that's a problem, yes. There is only one cap responsible for that, outside the charge pump, C9, but it looks like you have that oriented correctly. You reported that the -9v reads -8.44 though, which looks right. Can you clarify what you mean?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:52 am 
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karish63 wrote:
But here's something interesting : when mesuring the voltage between the ground and the -9 volt, my multimeter have display the value of 8.3, could this be the problem?

I wouldn't worry about it--my bet is that you just had the probes backwards (black on the -9 and red on ground). All your voltages look fine to me.

Since your voltages check out, I would replace the BS170 MOSFET next. They are a fairly delicate component, and are particularly prone to damage by static discharge.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 12:01 pm 
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What sort of power supply are you using?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 2:49 am 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
I wouldn't worry about it--my bet is that you just had the probes backwards (black on the -9 and red on ground). All your voltages look fine to me.

Since your voltages check out, I would replace the BS170 MOSFET next. They are a fairly delicate component, and are particularly prone to damage by static discharge.


How can I be sure that my BS170 MOSFET is dead? A simple check with the ohm-meter would be enough?

By the way, I use a 9v transformer as a power supply


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:29 am 
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Ok I have tested my Mosfet and it seems to be alright, what could be the next step to solve the issue?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 10:15 am 
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karish63 wrote:
Ok I have tested my Mosfet and it seems to be alright....

How did you do this?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 1:48 am 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
How did you do this?


I have basically followed the instructions on this webpage https://www.utm.edu/staff/leeb/mostest.htm

I have decided to do the test again nonetheless and , by using the ohmeter mode set to 2000 with a diode symbole I have tried and the connection between the gate and the drain has shown the value of 1793. Is this a "low voltage"? This goes beyond what I know


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 2:53 pm 
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take the boost module out and place a jumper between the I and O sockets. It should sound the same in bypass as it does when the boost is on with the volume all the way up.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2018 1:33 am 
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byoc wrote:
take the boost module out and place a jumper between the I and O sockets.


Is something like that going to do the trick?

http://www.conrad.fr/ce/fr/product/7438 ... archDetail


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2018 10:16 am 
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No need to buy anything for this purpose. Just take a short piece of wire, strip off about 5mm of insulation from both ends, bend it in half in the middle and insert the stripped ends into the I and O holes in the upper boost header on the PCB. Voila! Instant jumper.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2018 3:59 am 
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Ok I have just try the pedal with the jumper in the socket and, as expected, the pedal did the same thing wether the boost was on or not, so the build seems to be out of the question. The problem definitely comes from the boost module. What could be the problem?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2018 11:36 am 
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karish63 wrote:
Ok I have just try the pedal with the jumper in the socket and, as expected, the pedal did the same thing wether the boost was on or not, so the build seems to be out of the question. The problem definitely comes from the boost module. What could be the problem?


The MOSFET boost is about as simple as a circuit can get. If you are absolutely certain that you have all good solder joints, and the voltage on the gate is correct, then I would assume that the BS170 is bad.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 11:41 am 
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Ok, I finally had the time to buy a new BS170 and a new switch. I have changed these components, and the crown jewel is finally working like a charm, thank you guys for your support, I have now to dig the many tone possibilities of this little pedal :)


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