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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 2:20 pm 
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Built the CJ. Works great!
Built the Hard Clipper Booster, when I engage boost: LED on, no sound at all. Nor in first or last position. When disengaged, CJ works perfectly.
I resoldered Hard Clipper solder points. I switched the IC over and back. No cure.

I try to post some pics...


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 2:42 pm 
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Drive works great, when I engage Boost, no sound when switch is in first
when I engage Drive and Boost when switch is in last position I hear a big hum and no guitar sound. All the controls including boost and drive level affect the hum (make it louder or softer).


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:08 pm 
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I'd try adding a bit of solder to the bottom pins of the IC socket and to one side of the 103 cap--those joints look a bit "thin" to me.

Can you take DC voltage readings with a multimeter on the pins of the IC?

Peter Denissen wrote:
I switched the IC over and back.

What exactly do you mean by this?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:17 pm 
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That I changed the orientation of the IC into the socket. I now have the dot on the IC at the notch side.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:19 pm 
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You had it in backwards first, then. And it's fried! Yay! You need a new op-amp, me thinks.

How many times have I done this? :oops:


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:20 pm 
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:( Your suggestions didn't help. Still no sound.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:21 pm 
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Did you replace the op-amp with a new one, correctly oriented?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:31 pm 
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Can you please guide me how to read the DC voltage on the pins?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:33 pm 
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@mmarch I had the opamp first in with the dot at the notch side. Then I changed it over. Now it's back in it's first position. Do you think it's fried?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:34 pm 
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Yes. Putting an op-amp in backwards and applying power will kill it :(


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:39 pm 
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Did I have it in correctly the first time then, with the dot at the notch side? Can I measure whether the opamp still works?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:53 pm 
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Ok, I tried measuring the DC voltage on the pins. Hope I did it right. Google is your best friend right?

1: hard to read, something like 0 or 00.3 (on 200m setting)
2: 3,2 V
3: 3,14 V
4: hard to read, something like 0 or 00.3 (on 200m setting)
5: hard to read, something like 0 or 00.3 (on 200m setting)
6: 3,12 V
7: 6,58 V
8: 00.3 (on 200m setting)

Hope this make sense?

Also, with the IC out, the hum in last position when both Drive and Boost are engaged is less.


Last edited by Peter Denissen on Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:54 pm 
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The way it is sitting in the photos is correct. If you switched it and applied power, no use testing it, it is toast.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 4:12 pm 
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Peter Denissen wrote:
@mmarch I had the opamp first in with the dot at the notch side. Then I changed it over. Now it's back in it's first position. Do you think it's fried?
mmarsh wrote:
Yes. Putting an op-amp in backwards and applying power will kill it :(

I would amend that slightly to "Putting an op-amp in backwards and applying power will USUALLY kill it." I've seen them survive this treatment, but not if it was run that way for more than a couple of minutes at the most. And it seems to depend upon the op amp type. Unless you have another TL071 or equivalent single op amp available that you know is functional to swap in to the module, there's no easy way to determine if it survived the reverse installation. Particularly since you don't know if there's a problem somewhere else in the boost circuit, which is a definite possibility.

It's inserted correctly when the dot is at the same end as the notch mark on the PCB silkscreen. So facing left as in your second photo is correct.

Your voltages look low, though they appear to be proportionally correct. Pin 7 should show your power source voltage, which I would expect to be right around +9V. Your reading of +6.6V is quite low. How are you powering the pedal? If you remove the boost module, insert a trimmed component lead or piece of bare wire from your build process into the +9V hole of the 4-pin socket in the bottom right corner of the main PCB. With the pedal powered, what voltage do you measure on that wire/lead?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 4:24 pm 
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I'm powering it with a 9V battery in a external housing. Battery measures 7,5V

Just connected a Pedal Power. New measurings:

1:
2: 4.2 V
3: 4.06 V
4:
5:
6: 4.03 V
7: 8.51 V
8:

Component lead into +9V holder also measures 8.51V

Do you think there's something wrong with/on the Boost Module or in the Crown Jewel itself?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 7:55 pm 
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The problem appears to be with the boost module, since the CJ is working well for you, and its overdrive circuit is separate from the boost. It just provides the contacts for the various voltage supplies (+9V, -9V, +4.5V, +18V), the ground connection, and the signal in and out.

When the boost module is inserted into the two sockets, is there some clearance between the solder joints on the bottom of the module and the two electrolytic caps lying on their sides? If they touch, you could be shorting out the boost signal. You can always put a layer or two of electrical insulating tape over the two caps to prevent contact.

If that's a dead end, I'd get a replacement for the IC as the next step, because you don't know if it's working anymore.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 12:50 am 
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Thanks. Ill try both today.

Can i use ducktape to insulate?

When buying a new IC, a TL071 right? Does it matter which brand etc or are they all alike? Does it alter the tone? I have this site and they sell TL071DR, TL071CD, TL071DCP, TL071ACP and more versions. Don't have a clue ;-). Brand is Texas Instruments.

Are there any components worth buying with the IC like diodes or something to experiment with? Or other ICs i can click into the Cj to get even more different sounds ;-)? Shipping costs are such much higher than those few pennies for the IC ;-) ;-) ;-)

Do you think the I was broken from the start and it didnt work hecause of that?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:34 am 
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Got a replacement IC TL071 at the local shop.
I've also 'insulated' the two lying caps with a piece of paper (the bag in which the IC's came...)

Still no sound :-(


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 12:17 pm 
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Hang in there--we'll figure this out.

Question: Is this the first boost module that you've tried in your CJ?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 3:30 pm 
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Yep

Im planning on making the mimosa. Its laying around here somewhere...

Initially i soldered the 103 resistor on the 103 spot. So i had to take out resistor and move it to the right spot. Since the 103 cap spot already had solder on it i needed to fiddle/wiggle in the 103 cap. Could this have damaged the resistor and or cap?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 5:08 pm 
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Peter Denissen wrote:
Initially i soldered the 103 resistor on the 103 spot. So i had to take out resistor and move it to the right spot. Since the 103 cap spot already had solder on it i needed to fiddle/wiggle in the 103 cap. Could this have damaged the resistor and or cap?

Doubtful. Resistors and caps are very durable components.

Since you haven't used the boost stage up to this point, we need to validate that the connections in the two 4-pin sockets are functional. You already showed that the +9V connection is working. So please do the following:

1) As you did with the +9V socket, place a piece of bare wire or trimmed component lead in the +18V socket and with your power source connected to the pedal, measure the voltage on the wire/lead. Repeat this procedure for the +4.5V and -9V sockets. Report the values you measured for the three sockets.

2) Place a piece of wire of component lead into the Ground socket. Switch your multimeter to resistance mode, and to the lowest resistance range, if it's not an auto-ranging meter. Disconnect your power source from the pedal. Measure the resistance between the wire/lead and the pedal enclosure; I recommend using one of the four corner screw bosses for the enclosure ground. The resistance between the two points should be nearly zero, and certainly no higher than an ohm or two.

3) Bend a piece of wire or component lead into a narrow V shape. Insert one end in the I socket and the other in the O socket--in other words, you're jumpering the input and output for the boost socket together. Apply power to the pedal, and connect it between your guitar & amp. Leave the overdrive side in bypass and engage the boost side. Strum your guitar and you should get "dry" (unprocessed) signal coming through your amp. If it doesn't pass dry signal, then there's a problem somewhere in the input or output circuitry to the boost stage on the CJ board.

Please report back when you've done these three tests.

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My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 11:47 pm 
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+9V socket: 8.48 V
+18V socket:12.29V
+4,5V socket: 4.24V
-9V sockedt: -8.28V

In resistance mode (ohm), on the 200 setting (is that a max of 200 ohms??) of my multimeter the result is 00.4. Does this mean 0.4ohm? It's the setting to also check continuity and it beeps so there's a connection.

Jumpered I & O, with power and guitar => pedal => amp. Boost volume up. Drive off. Boost on. NO SIGNAL :-(


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 7:19 am 
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Time for a signal probe.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 9:18 am 
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What's a signal probe?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 9:54 am 
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This…
https://buildyourownclone.com/collectio ... gnaltester
or you can make one yourself out of a cap and an old instrument cable you don’t need or use anymore.

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