Build Your Own Clone Message Board

I have no bypass signal and no LED. I am using a trusted power source. I have relocated the capacitor and the LED the first picture. I checked the solder joints carefully before installing the pots and switches. I'm hoping another set of eyes will help me find the issue.

The issue is your opamp placement. the MCU goes in the lower spot. swap those and see what happens.

Edit: Also, the top IC is your charge pump LT1054, not a TL072.

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The tone is in my hands?!
Email: nick@buildyourownclone.com

^ This. All four of your IC's are in the wrong spot, though switching the TL072 and the 4558 won't hurt anything. As Nick said, the MCU (12F609) goes at the bottom and the charge pump (LT1054) in the uppermost socket.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Also, make sure the IC's are all seated properly. The misplaced 4558 was wonky in its socket...

If you were that far off with your ICs, you'll probably want to double check all your transistors as well.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Thanks for the help.
I now have the IC’s installed as follows:
Top-LT1054
Left-4558
Right-TL072
Bottom-12F609

The LED’s now light up.
I still do not have bypass signal but have a constant loud howl, like a siren.
The howl is affected by the pots and switches.

I do not have the unit installed in the enclosure?
I do not have the boost module installed.

The transistor locations check out.

Do the LEDs turn on and off when you press their respective footswitches?

Can you hear the relays clicking when you press the footswitches?

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

I am now getting a guitar signal with both LED's off. It is distorted and the pots and switches affect the squeal. This should be the clean bypass. When I depress either the boost or the drive switch, the LED's come on and the squeal is not changed from the "bypass" mode.
I have the hard clipper boost module now built and installed.
The transistors are in the correct locations.
The IC's are in the correct location and seated correctly.

Thanks for helping..and let me know if I need better pictures.

I guess this is a bump for my previous post.
I'm not sure where to start looking for the problem.
Let me know if other pictures or different views would be helpful.
Thanks....Joe

Do you have access to a multimeter and know how to use one to measure DC voltage?

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Yes, I have a multimeter and I can set it to read DC volts. I would need help in where to probe. I also have a signal tester (BYOC).

I would start by reading the voltage levels on the two dual op amps (4558 and TL072). With your power source connected and a cable inserted into the input jack, stick the meter's black probe into one of the four corner screw bosses of the enclosure (this is your ground connection) and then touch the red probe sequentially to each of the op amp's 8 pins. Pin 4 should read zero (ground pin), pin 8 should be about +9V and the other six pins should read just about 1/2 of the pin 8 value. Report your results here, and we'll go from there.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

4558
1=4.15
2=4.16
3=3.04
4=0
5=4.02
6=4.08
7=4.07
8=8.17

TL072
1=4.12
2=4.14
3=3.03
4=0
5=4.01
6=4.07
7=4.06
8=8.15

Those look good. Pin 3 runs a bit lower, so no voltage issues evident there.

Check to make sure that you have 5V on pin 1 (square solder pad) of the MCU chip at the bottom of the board.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Pin 1 on the MCU reads 5.02v.

That's right one the mark.

Are you familiar with how to use the signal tester?

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

No experience with the signal tester, however I have one (BYOC).
What do I need to do?

Start by reading the instructions, if you haven't already done so. The last page is a summary of how it operates: http://byocelectronics.com/signaltesterinstructions.pdf

Think of it as a movable output jack--it will output to your amp whatever signal is present at the test point. With the black wire's alligator clip attached to ground (the sleeve solder tab of either the input or output jack works well for this purpose), strum a chord or pick a note on your guitar while touching your red probe to the following points in the order shown:

1. pin 5 of the 4558
2. pin 7 of the 4558
3. pin 3 of the 4558
4. pin 1 of the 4558
5. pin 2 of the TL072
6. pin 1 of the TL072

The pedal needs to be powered & engaged, with typical playing settings.

Report on whether or not signal is present at each of these points, and its relative volume.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Status before signal test:
Powered up with guitar in and out to amp. LED’s off = loud howl/squeal with some guitar signal coming through. Knobs and switches vary the tone and volume of the squeal. This should be bypass mode.
I depress the switches and the LED’s come on with no change to the squeal.

Signal test:
I have clean bypass signal touching the probe to the Tip of the input jack.
Both LED’s are off.
4558
1=loud clean signal (boosted)
3= loud clean signal (boosted)
5= Lower volume clean signal
7= loud clean signal (boosted)

Tl072
1=Loud Squeal (boosted)
2= Loud Squeal (boosted)

Hmm, those TL072 results are concerning. Let me check my own with a signal tester and see what I get.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Why would I have the effect of the pedal (squeal and howl) with the LED’s off? The pots and switches affect the squeal at this point. This should be clean bypass.

Why would there be no change to the sound when the LED’s are activated with the foot switches?

Thanks for helping duhvoodooman.

With this type of switching, the indicator LED is totally separate from the circuit. Both the effect and the LED are activated at the same time by the same switch, which can be confusing, but they are not connected to each other. If you look at the schematic on p. 25 of the instructions, you can see both LED circuits sorta dangling off below the rest of the circuitry, bottom left and bottom right. Sw1a and Sw2a are your footswitches, and lugs 1, 2, and 3 of those switches operate the LED circuit, which also includes the 4k7 current limiting resistor (CLR).

All that to say, it's entirely possible for the LED to work and the effect not to work, or vice versa.

_________________
Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Well, I’m hopeful we’ll get to the solution of the issue. I’m just at a loss right now.

Are we still talking about the Crown Jewel, because if so, this isn't the case? This is how all true bypass pedals that use a 3PDT work, but the Crown Jewel uses a microcontroller and relays to do the switching.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com