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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 3:52 pm 
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Hi all

Built CJ over Christmas and it sounds great. Bought the Germanium boost for it but I am having trouble with the orientation of the germanium diode.
So drive works fully although when Mids pot is at or past 3o'clock I get feedback which I have read is normal.
When the boost switch is on (LED lights up) but there is no sound with or without the drive engaged.
Bypass works fine also ( drive and boost off)

Rookie mistake/confession. I installed all ICs direct onto the board, soldered in and not on their carriers. I know !!!! However, the pedal works fine. But could this effect the boost ?

Can you confirm what I have done wrong ?

Cheers.

John67


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 3:55 pm 
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Please post a set of photos of your build. They need to be LARGE, well-focused, well-lit shots of both sides of the PCB and all of the switch and jack wiring.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 2:02 pm 
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Pics attached. Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks very much.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 2:30 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 2:31 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 2:33 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 2:34 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 2:35 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 2:36 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 2:37 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 2:38 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 2:40 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 2:51 pm 
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Can't seem to add any more photos.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 6:26 pm 
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If you remove the fuzz module and jumper the "I" and "O" holes on the upper boost socket, does the pedal pass signal (un-fuzzed or boosted, of course) when the boost footswitch is engaged?

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My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2019 2:41 pm 
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Ok. With no Ge boost module added the following g happens.
Nothing on = bypass giving normal guitar noise
Drive on = distorted guitar noise
Boost on = no noise
Drive and boost on = no noise

So any combination where the boost switch and LED are on = no noise

Hope this helps.

Cheers


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2019 2:43 pm 
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Did you jumper the I and O header spots?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2019 3:19 pm 
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Just performed the jumper across the I and O sockets and there was no bypass.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2019 3:21 pm 
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Just performed the jumper across the I and O sockets and there was no bypass when the boost switch engaged. There is still bypass when all switches off.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2019 3:24 pm 
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Just to be clear, you had the boost volume up, jumped the I and O, and had the boost LED on, correct?

If so, did you hear the relay click? You should hear the relay actuate when turning the boost side on and off.

If you did all this, and you still had no sound, take a close look at the components surrounding the boost relay, take a look that the BS170s are actually BS170s, and that the 2N3904 on the right side of the relay is correct. At the same time, make sure the solder joints are good, and that there are no shorts anywhere in that section.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2019 3:57 pm 
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Yes jumped I to O, boost volume up, LED on and no relay sound. There is no sound when I switch on the drive switch either but that works !!

I will check out the components you have listed. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:42 am 
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With the boost channel ON, test for continuity between the pin in the upper right hand corner of the first/last switch and the upper eyelet of R3. R3 is the 470 ohm (471 or yellow/purple/black/black/brown) resistor located just above the "A100K" of the boost pot.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2019 3:41 pm 
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I have a multimeter now. With boost channel on, I placed the black lead of the multimeter on the upper right hand corner of the first/last switch and the red cable on the upper eyelet of R3. (both marked in the picture) and I got continuity (sound) :lol:

Hopefully this is a good sign. What next ?

I will now check the other connections for dry solder joints of course but any other suggestions ?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 11:34 am 
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Do you have a signal tester?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 12:42 pm 
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Also, I'm still seeing a lot of solder joints that look cold and dirty. A good solder joint should be very shiny and sort of the shape of a Hershey's kiss.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 12:57 am 
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Yes I have a signal tester. I agree with some of the solder joints so will test all for co trinity and redo those that dont. Once all joints have continuity should the pedal work fully ? Remember it's just the boost that doesn't work at present. Thanks.


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