Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hi all, I just built my first BYOC kit (a Crown Jewel), but having issues. I'm looking for some help on where to check next in my troubleshooting.

I put everything together, plugged it in, and:

• I get a clean signal coming out
• The drive and boost LEDs turn on/off when I press the switches, but have no effect on the signal
• If I switch the boost to Before, I get a clean signal out; if I switch it to After, I get nothing

I read through as many troubleshooting threads as I could to look for common issues/things to test, and tried re-flowing everything. Now:

• I still get a clean signal coming out
• The drive and boost LEDs stopped turning on/off when I press the switches, and still have no effect on the signal
• If I switch the boost to Before, I get a clean signal out; if I switch it to After, I get nothing (I think this is a second issue that I'll look into next)

Testing the voltages at several points, I get some weird results with the 5V regulator and the switching IC 12F609:

• On IC3 (5V regulator), I get +8.2V, 0, and only +1.3V
• On IC1, I get +1.2V on pins 1 and 3, and 0.35 on the other pins (or 0), and 0 on pin 8 (Ground)
• Also, the 5V regulator gets really hot to the touch when the pedal is plugged in for a minute or two (not sure if this is expected or not)
• If I remove IC1 from the socket, then I correctly read +5V coming out of IC3

This leads me to believe that either the 12F609 IC is bad, or there's a short downstream somewhere. I can't see any shorts on the board. Any thoughts on where else to check? Any other readings I can compare to expected values?

I get normal readings in most other places I tested:

• +9V pin: +8.2V
• +18V pin: +16.4V
• -9V pin: -8.1V
• V drop over R21 and R22 are both 4.1V
• The OpAmps register +V on pin 8, 0 on pin 4, and somewhere in the middle on the other pins

Also, a few other quick questions:

• What are the A, B and C holes for on the board? Are they for taking readings, or for expansion or something?
• I get a clean signal out, even if the power isn't plugged in. Is this expected? I thought with a relay bypass like this, it would be dead if there was no power.

Thanks in advance for any guidance. And that for all previous responses - it was very helpful to read through everyone else's issues and what went into troubleshooting them.

First things first, some of your eyelets need some more solder. The general rule of thumb is that if you can see into the eyelet, there isn't enough solder. So hit the joints that look starved and see where you are.

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The tone is in my hands?!
Email: nick@buildyourownclone.com

OK, I've gone over the board several times and added as much solder as I can. No change in function though. Is there anywhere else that looks suspect?

I did figure out that the 3PDT switch was bad (or I broke it somehow?). Pins 1-2 weren't making contact, no matter how the switch was flipped. That seemed to be responsible for the second issue I was having, where the clean signal would cut out if I switch the boost to "after". I replaced with another switch and now I'm at least getting a clean signal, no matter how the before/after switch is flipped.

I still can't activate either stomp button, and the voltage readings coming out of the 5V regulator and at pin 1 of the 12F609 IC are still reading at 1.3V instead of 5V. Any other thoughts on how to troubleshoot this?
Is there a way to test the 12F609 or maybe even the relays outside of this circuit? Could I build something quick on a breadboard to verify that they work? Or any way to help rule one of those components in or out?

Also, any help on my general questions that for sure don't have anything to do with my soldering?

• What are the A, B and C holes for on the board? Are they for taking readings, or for expansion or something?
• I get a clean signal out, even if the power isn't plugged in. Is this expected? I thought with a relay bypass like this, it would be dead if there was no power.
• The 5V regulator gets really hot to the touch. Is this expected? or is this likely a cause or symptom of whatever is wrong?

Thanks!

I'd skip to the last of your 3 questions and say that it sure sounds like a bad 5V voltage regulator and that you should contact sales@buildyourownclone.com and ask for a new one.

For the other two questions:

• The A, B and C holes are for connecting the "dry blend board" upgrade kit.
• The clean (bypassed) signal when the power is disconnected is normal for this circuit. The relays default to the bypassed connection state when the circuit is not energized.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks for the response and the clarifications.

I did some more testing and still think it is the 12F609 chip, not the 5V regulator that is bad:

• If I pull out the 12F609 chip completely, the measure the voltage coming out of the 5V regulator, it measures exactly 5V
• If I pull out the 12F609 chip, and connect wires to the +5V and GND pins where the chip was supposed to go, and connect 2 LEDs in series, they light up. If I measure the voltage drop over the LEDs, it's exactly 5V.
• If I connect the LED to the input pins, they light up (faintly), and then if I push the pushbutton, the LED goes out
• I connected wires from where the chip was supposed to go to a breadboard. If I connect the IC into the breadboard, and connect an LED in parallel with the +5V input, the LED lights up. If I remove the IC, the LED lights up

So it seems like the 5V regulator and all the connections going into the chip are working as expected, but something in the 12F609 chip seems to be shorting out.

Or is there a chance it still could be the 5V regulator?

OK, good data there. I would agree that the 5V regulator appears to be fine, though I'd probably replace it anyway for fear of damage or reduced life from the overheating you've observed. Yes, sounds like the 12F609 has an internal short. I would recommend that you request replacement of BOTH parts from BYOC at the email link I posted above.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2