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 Post subject: Crown Jewel sound issues
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2020 6:06 pm 
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Hello,

I tried my hand at putting together the pedal... I put the wrong switch at in one of places at one point and had to desolder and resolder them..

Bypass works.

When I click on Drive, I get a pretty noticeable volume drop, even at full level and drive I'm not really getting a good amount of volume.

The middle position of the LED SOFT SI switch also does nothing.

Boost seems to be working well.

Also there's a good amount of noise when I flick switches, or turn knobs..

Any help would be awesome!

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

Here's a few pictures of the inside, can post more if needed!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2020 11:12 am 
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I'm not seeing anything out of place. Can you please post voltage readings of the 4558 chip? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRFtlUn4eBg This explains how to use your DMM if you aren't familiar.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2020 9:34 pm 
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Have a DMM in the mail, will update when it comes in. Thanks for your help!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2020 9:56 am 
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Here's the readings from my 4558 chip :
1.  4.25
2. 4.25
3. 3.10
4. 0
5. 4.19
6. 4.25
7. 3.61
8. 8.51


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2020 11:04 am 
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fpsjl wrote:
Here's the readings from my 4558 chip :
1.  4.25
2. 4.25
3. 3.10
4. 0
5. 4.19
6. 4.25
7. 3.61
8. 8.51


Those voltages look okay. Please take readings of the TL072.

Are all the knobs working as you would expect? You're just not getting very much output? You probably won't hear a huge difference between the soft LED clipping and none unless you have the gain cranked. Even then, it's a subtle change. You should however, hear a significant change between soft Si and soft LED.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2020 11:49 am 
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TL072

1. 4.24
2. 4.24
3. 2.10
4. 0
5. 3.81
6. 4.24
7. 4.24
8. 8.5

Level works
The EQ controls (treble mid and bass) all work
M Freq seems to be working (I can hear a change when I turn it from one way to the other)

Presence and Drive both don't seem to be doing anything

For the Switches 18v and 9v seem to have a subtle change when swapping between them
LED SOFT SI : When it's in the middle (soft) there's no sound, it just cuts right out, the other two extremes have slight differences between them.
MID Q : subtle changes when cycling through the three options
SI HARD GE : small subtle changes between them.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 11:13 am 
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You've probably got a cold solder joint somewhere within the clipping portion of the circuit. You should reflow the solder joints on your PCB, paying close attention to the area around the 4558, toggle switches and drive/presence pots.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 11:55 am 
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byoc wrote:
....You should reflow the solder joints on your PCB, paying close attention to the area around the 4558, toggle switches and drive/presence pots.

Here's some detailed guidance for that process: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 1:16 pm 
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I can't access some of the PCB without removing the pots... and as a relatively noob to soldering, is there an easy way to do this? Should I bother?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 2:20 pm 
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You can slowly/gently bend the pot legs back and pivot the pots up from the PCB to get at the solder joints underneath. But I would start by doing everything else that you can reach easily and then see where you're at before doing this.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 6:05 pm 
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Got it working temporarily... reflowed what I could see and get at, all the switches. Everything seemed to be in working order, then had to put it down to get some work done... by the time I got back to it, put the pedal back together it was back to doing the same thing as before.

Very annoyed by this... assuming it's a solder issue somewhere, but what would have made it temporarily work and then not all of a sudden??


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 6:27 pm 
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fpsjl wrote:
....assuming it's a solder issue somewhere, but what would have made it temporarily work and then not all of a sudden??

Exactly what you said--a solder joint issue somewhere, making intermittent contact. I usually check the wire connections first--wiggle each wire and listen for the signal to come and go. If that doesn't locate the problem, start poking around at the various components with a non-conductive probe of some sort--a chopstick or plastic pen body is good for this. again, you're listening for the signal to cut in and out. Wiggle the pots as well after loosening their nuts.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 7:17 pm 
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When LED mode is on, should both LED's light up?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 7:19 pm 
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The LED's may flash on momentarily when clipping a strong signal, but they won't light up steadily; that's not what their function is in a clipping circuit.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 9:16 pm 
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When I switch to LED, the bottom LED is always on, the top one doesn't flash at all... when I got it to work originally the LED's were sorta... pulsing? I guess?

For a moment earlier I was able to get the drive to work at about a quarter turn, and then the signal would cut out again...

This has been an extremely frustrating venture! But I'll endure! Thanks so much for your help, I truly truly appreciate it!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 9:23 pm 
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HTXcSY ... p=drivesdk

So here's the progress. Sorta works, cuts out intermittently, especially on the soft setting (can't turn drive past noonish).
Gonna try to replace the wires on input and output tomorrow.. although it works on bypass so I'm not sure that's an issue? Maybe someone can elaborate. If I had to make an educated guess, things working on bypass means the issue is somewhere else in the signal chain.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2020 10:24 am 
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fpsjl wrote:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HTXcSYcaDaSbgx2mCilW8VHpaW03ciQd/view?usp=drivesdk

So here's the progress. Sorta works, cuts out intermittently, especially on the soft setting (can't turn drive past noonish).
Gonna try to replace the wires on input and output tomorrow.. although it works on bypass so I'm not sure that's an issue? Maybe someone can elaborate. If I had to make an educated guess, things working on bypass means the issue is somewhere else in the signal chain.


The problem you're describing is almost certainly due to a poor solder joint somewhere. And yes, since bypass seems to be working fine, I think it's okay to assume the problem isn't with your wiring, but rather somewhere on the PCB.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2020 10:55 am 
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Would it be logical to use a signal tester down the board? Perhaps identify the issue in a more obvious manner? I've been considering picking one up from my retailer here in Canada... but I'm not exactly sure how to go about testing the drive circuit.

Could it be any solder joint, or do you think only one somewhere down the drive circuit (since many of the dials and switches seem to be doing something, I assume they are working correctly?).

I noticed that two of my diodes seem to have a solder spot together... They were super close on the circuit, could this be an issue as well?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HUdG5e ... sp=sharing


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2020 11:29 am 
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fpsjl wrote:
Would it be logical to use a signal tester down the board? Perhaps identify the issue in a more obvious manner? I've been considering picking one up from my retailer here in Canada... but I'm not exactly sure how to go about testing the drive circuit.

A signal tester is a useful tool to have on hand, but it's really not particularly well suited for finding intermittent problems. I really think the "poke and wiggle" method I alluded to earlier is the best way to find that kind of defect. The fact that it worked out of the enclosure and then started acting up when re-assembled is pretty typical of an issue with one of the pots or switches--tightening them down in the enclosure puts stress on the solder joints or possibly internally within a pot. You might want to consider taking the "guts" back out of the enclosure to relieve any such mounting stress and then work through the poke & wiggle process.

fpsjl wrote:
Could it be any solder joint, or do you think only one somewhere down the drive circuit (since many of the dials and switches seem to be doing something, I assume they are working correctly?).

Well, it couldn't be ANY solder joint, but it could conceivably be at almost any point in the main signal path, since it results in a sound cut-out.

fpsjl wrote:
I noticed that two of my diodes seem to have a solder spot together... They were super close on the circuit, could this be an issue as well?

Not a factor. Those diodes are already connected together, which is why it doesn't matter if the eyelets are touching.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2020 12:08 pm 
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I've gone to working on it out of the enclosure, I'm at a loss, I think it must be one of the joints that I can't reach. I thought maybe one of the capacitors was making a short against a pot, I've reflowed all the joints I can reach, I figure there are 1-2 under the switches and maybe a few more under the M.Freq pot that I can't reach. I ordered a signal tester to have on hand for future builds..

Could it help identify at what point in the signal things drop? I need a more systematic approach I think at this point, because I feel like I'm just spinning my tires doing the same things over and over again.

Boost works, so I'm guessing that portion of the board I can leave alone, as well as the EQ controls. Do you think there's a particular area of the board where I need to focus my efforts?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2020 12:46 pm 
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fpsjl wrote:
...I ordered a signal tester to have on hand for future builds...Could it help identify at what point in the signal things drop?...Do you think there's a particular area of the board where I need to focus my efforts?

The signal tester can work for this, but first off, you're going to need to get the pedal in a state where the output has cut out and stays that way. Hopefully, you can do that and then work through key points in the overdrive signal path until you locate the area of the circuit where the drop-out is occurring. I think what works best is to identify maybe a half dozen test points across the circuit (and we can help you identify those) to start with, and locate two consecutive test points where the signal is present at the first and gone at the second. Then you home in on where the specific failure is occurring in that part of the circuit with additional testing. So maybe you want to just set the pedal aside until your signal tester arrives.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2020 4:20 pm 
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Perfect, I think a break will do some good! Will update a bit next week! Thank you again, I appreciate it!!


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