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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2020 9:58 am 
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Having some issues with my first build.

Pedal does turn on. No signal with either engaged or bypassed.

Did some multimeter readings on the chip and footswitch.

During assembly Mod 3 was made by accident, but kept it to avoid having to desolder and haven't attempted a swap yet for the 103 because I would have to desolder the tone knob as well to get to it.

I know there's some issues here, but any direction would be appreciated. Thanks.

Chip readings

1: ~17 volts
2: ~1.3 volts
3: ~4.5 volts
4: 0 (and shows continuity)
5: 8.89
6: 8.98
7: 8.94
8: 17.87

Switch:

engaged
1 & 2 show continuity
4 & 5 show continuity
7 & 8 show continuity
3 and 6 show continuity

bypassed
1 and 2 show continuity (and LED comes on)
2 and 3 show continuity
5 and 6 show continuity
8 and 9 show continuity
3 and 6 show continuity
4 and 9 show continuity


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2020 10:36 am 
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can you please post pictures of the build?

They need to be clear close, both sides of the board, include connections to the jacks as well.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2020 10:41 am 
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Are you using an 18V power supply? If so, the second half of the IC voltages look okay. Pins 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, and 7 should all be around 9V (or 4.5V if you're using a 9V power supply). You either have something wrong with the components that affect the first half of the chip or the chip was damaged.

Please post pics if you need any further help.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2020 11:15 am 
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Sure sounds like a wiring or footswitch problem if you're getting no output in either engaged or bypassed modes. You may find this post helpful: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52785

And, yes, please post photos if your problems continue.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2020 2:48 pm 
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I'm definitely using an 9V power supply.

I did char one of the wires on the in jack while soldering ... could this cause an issue?

Thanks for all the help on this!

Dan


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2020 2:49 pm 
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Here's the out jack and power supply photo. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2020 3:08 pm 
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correction: turns out I was using a 18V power supply! Still no signal. But here are the updated voltage readings from the chip.

1: 8.48
2: 1.32
3: 2.27
4: 0
5: 4.5
6: 4.56
7: 4.53
8: 9.08


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2020 8:06 pm 
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The first thing I would suggest doing is to remove all the footswitch wires from both the switch and the PCB connections, clean up the residual solder (get yourself a solder sucker and some good quality desoldering braid for that task, if you don't already have these things), and then test the function of the footswitch as described in this post: http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewto ... 66#p256766 If the results indicate a bad switch, replace it. You need to get your bypass signal working before you worry about the effect circuit itself. I'd also re-do the wires on the input jack sleeve and ring connections, which look pretty gnarly.

Here are a couple of links for information/tips you may find useful:

http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewto ... =9&t=52785

http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewto ... =9&t=52211

http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewto ... f=9&t=6401

http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewto ... 50&t=33293

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2020 7:31 am 
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I would agree with the other advice you've gotten in this tread. I think it is very likely that your problem is related to the quality of your soldering on your wires, so if the whole thing seems overwhelming, start with that.

If you only buy one tool for fixing this, it should be the solder sucker. You have too much solder on a lot of these spots, and it will be hard to remove it safely without that tool. (If you already happen to own desoldering braid, that will work too.)

Practice twisting and tinning the wire on a few extra pieces before moving on to replacing the wiring in the build. Refer to the threads duhvoodooman linked, or look it up on YouTube. You want to get wire tips that are shiny, thin, and tight, with no stray wires poking out and no excess solder.

Once you have removed the old solder and gotten nice tight tinned ends on your wires, you can reinstall them. Make sure you are cleaning the tip of your iron in between each joint. If the tip is not hot and clean, you'll get those blobs more often than not.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2020 8:17 am 
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Thanks duhvoodooman for those links and suggestions! I have a desoldering braid but am gonna get my hands on a solder sucker and then get to work on the wiring.

Can anyone tell me how much slack I should leave on the solder side of the components when I’m clipping them? Wasn’t sure if I was making them too short?


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2020 10:03 am 
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I'm not sure what you mean by slack on the solder side. If you're talking about how much the wire should protrude, the answer is very little or not at all. You can cut it down as close to the joint as you can without breaking the joint itself. If you mean extra slack between the joint and the component it's connected to, then the answer is that it doesn't matter too much. I keep them as short as I can, but especially on your first build, it makes things easier to have extra wire to work with. It looks messy, but it doesn't affect the functionality.

Looking again at your photos, I can see a big blob on the solder side of the PCB where lug 7 connects, and a smaller but still problematic one at the connection for lug 8. Lug 7 only affects the "on" state of the effect, but lug 8 is the point of output whether bypassed or on. If you're lucky, cleaning up just that one joint could get you working. Just reheat the joints with a clean hot iron until they melt, and then remove the iron. It's ok if some of the solder comes off with it; just wipe it clean before going on to the next one.

If you want to get a little nerdy, you can read about mechanical bypass switching in detail in this excellent thread by Stephen. It explains the image below.

Image

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 8:14 pm 
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Thanks for all the help so far! After a lengthy break, I returned to work on the pedal and have now gotten it working when not bypassed. When bypassed, the LED flickers on and off on every few seconds. Does this make any help in indicating how to move forward?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 8:58 pm 
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danevy wrote:
When bypassed, the LED flickers on and off on every few seconds.

Is it passing the clean/unprocessed signal when in bypass? The LED flickering is not directly related to the effect circuit.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 9:16 pm 
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Sorry, I meant when ENGAGED the LED flickers and no sound. When bypassed, the signal runs through unprocessed.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 9:33 am 
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I tried operating the pedal with a battery and that resolved the flickering LED, but still no signal when engaged.

I was then attempting to take readings from the chip with my multimeter and discovered that the chip is getting very hot to the touch. I can get a few readings from the chip, a few of them are off. But the heated chip concerns me. Could it have been damaged?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 10:28 am 
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A hot chip is usually indicative of a short somewhere. Don't leave it connected to power longer than it takes to feel the heat until you've sorted that out. It's possible/likely the chip is damaged, but it's not a foregone conclusion.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 10:29 am 
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So: carefully inspect the board, looking for solder bridges or stray wires, especially near the IC chip. Carefully remove the chip from its socket and clean up the soldering there. Then you can test again.

BTW, what kind of power supply was it?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 11:52 am 
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sjaustin wrote:
...Carefully remove the chip from its socket and clean up the soldering there.

And before you reinstall the IC, I would recommend getting a set of voltage readings on the socket pins and report them here.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 6:24 pm 
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The readings from the chip are as follows

1: 8.7
2. 8.67
3. 8.67
4. 0
5. 8.43
6: 8.64
7: 8.64
8. 9.15

I MAY have put the chip in the wrong way which may have resulted in the hot chip ... ? As of right now I flipped the chip over to I believe the correct side, and it has stopped over heating. It looks like these readings are off as well.

I do believe I've made a bit of a mess, but still really want to get this thing working!


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2021 2:22 pm 
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(Reposting this to see if I can get some input.)

The readings from the chip are as follows

1: 8.7
2. 8.67
3. 8.67
4. 0
5. 8.43
6: 8.64
7: 8.64
8. 9.15

I MAY have put the chip in the wrong way which may have resulted in the hot chip ... ? As of right now I flipped the chip over to I believe the correct side, and it has stopped over heating. It looks like these readings are off as well.

I do believe I've made a bit of a mess, but still really want to get this thing working!


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2021 2:34 pm 
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Looks like you fried the chip when you installed it backwards, which is often what happens. Suggest that you replace the IC, which is a TL072. But any general purpose dual op amp will work just as well. JRC4558D, RP4558P, TL082, NE 5532, OPA2134, etc.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2021 3:10 pm 
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Thank you! Just ordered a few of these chips. We'll see if that does the trick!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 9:38 am 
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Replaced the chip. Works in bypass. Still no signal when engaged. Here are my new chip readings.

1: 8.12
2: 1.34
3: 2.16
4: 0
5: 4.32
6: 4.37
7: 4.34
8: 8.74

Did some poking around the PCB checking for continuity with the chip (following the trails on PCB) and it seems that one of my 1M resistors is not showing continuity with it chip pin 3 (where the trail leads me). Tried to re-solder but I think it might be faulty.

Let me know if it looks like I'm in the ballpark here. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 11:41 am 
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The 1 - 3 pins should be in the 4.5V (i.e. "1/2V") ballpark, same as 5 - 7. If you're not getting a connection between that 1M resistor and pin 3, that's the likely cause, because that's where that first half of the dual op amp gets the 1/2V supply voltage. I'd start by reflowing the solder joints on the resistor and the op amp's socket pins (remove the op amp before doing this). If still no joy, there may be a break in the PCB trace or one of those eyelets, preventing the connection. In that case, I'd run a jumper wire between that resistor and pin 3 of the socket. Test for continuity with the op amp still out of the socket.

BTW, when you're checking continuity or measuring resistance, you need to disconnect power to the circuit. If there's power present on the point in the circuit you're trying to measure, it will render the meter's reading meaningless.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 12:59 pm 
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How do I wire the jumper? Gave it a shot (picture attached) but now my pin 2 &3 readings are around 8V.


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