Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hi all,

Recently completed my very first ever build, a BYOC British Blue OD. Other than my tone pot shorting out about 6 solder joints (facepalm- used a slice of plastic to insulate and she's up and running) it went pretty much perfectly. I left some leads long as I intend to mount it in a different box, as I mentioned in another thread.

I like the tone a lot. One thing I did while I built it was the first "mod" listed, just to increase the bass a little.

I like the amount of gain present at minimum and the amount at max is plenty, what I'd like to improve is the way it 0-9 on the knob goes from what seems like 0-30% then 30-100% seems to happen between 9 and 10 right at the last second. Of course I'm not measuring that scientifically in any way, just to kind of describe what I mean.

Is there a different pot value/type that would spread that range out more over the travel of the knob?

First, we need to confirm what pot is installed. Nominally it should be a linear taper 100 Kohm, and be labeled "B100K" on top side of the pot. But you probably can't see that unless you disassemble the pedal from the enclosure. So do this instead, with your power source disconnected from the pedal:

• Measure the resistance between the two outside solder connections to the pot on the PCB.
• Turn the pot to the midpoint of its sweep (as close as you can estimate it) and measure the resistance between the middle solder connection of the pot and either one of the outside connections (doesn't matter which one).

Report the two resistance values you found here.

Incidentally, what you've described that you wish to change isn't the range of the gain control (which you've specifically stated is good from min to max), but rather the rate at which the gain changes as the pot is turned.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

It was definitely the B100K, I'll take a couple readings and report back.

92.5k ohm outer two posts
14.6k inner post to outer with control at approx half.

Well, that would indicate that it's NOT a B100k, but rather an A100K. A linear taper pot would show half the resistance of the full pot range when set halfway. So you should be seeing more like 46K on the second value. And since audio taper pots change the resistance slowly at the beginning of the sweep and rapidly at the end, it would explain what you've described as the problem you wish to fix.

I'd suggest that you do the same resistance test now on the Level pot, which should be an A100K. It's always possible that the two were switched when installed (it's a pretty common mistake, one that I've done myself, more than once ). Also, be sure that what you reported above was definitely the Drive pot--it's easy to get them confused when you turn the pedal over and they're on opposite sides.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Level pot reading was 94/46.



Well, I don't believe I'll be able to de-solder and swap those two. I have a solder sucker but can't seem to get it to do much and I am confident heating one leg at a time will not work.

In addition to the solder sucker, it's a good idea to have some high-quality desoldering braid on hand. Best I've found is this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VLA2/

The solder sucker should remove most of the solder from those large eyelets for the pots. You might want to check YouTube for some helpful videos on how to use one most effectively. In general, I get most of the solder out of a joint with the sucker and then clean up the residual with the braid. Done correctly, the pot will literally fall out of the PCB. Just don't force anything--that's how PCB eyelets get damaged.

P.S. No need to feel embarrassed. Your mistake only involved TWO pots. It takes a real professional to screw up FIVE of them in one build: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=21886

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Not sure what the etiquette is here, I have a further question but unrelated to the gain pot. Forgive me if I should have started a new thread.

I always use batteries with my gain pedals, never adapters. When I re-house my BBOD, if I wanted to remove the 9v adapter socket altogether, I’m not sure which of the 3 terminals would need a jumper wire. I assume there is something in the 9v socket that opens/closes the main power to battery in the event I’m not using wall power hence the (2) + and (1) - contacts on the board?

The normal connection for the battery adapter to the circuit's power rail is through the DC jack itself, so you'll need to jumper the two + eyelets at the top of the PCB. See marked up PCB diagram below. Be sure to leave the RING eyelet connected to the ring tab of the input jack, as this is the needed ground connection for the battery to work when a cable is inserted in that jack. And you can save battery life by pulling the cable out of the jack when you're done using the pedal.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Voodoo man I owe you a cold one, thank you a billion. You’re like having a wizard on auto dial, I appreciate this help immensely.

I’m going to get this OD aim a big box and I think I may have been bit by the big, I’m considering a Leeds fuzz next. I have an 80s Rat already and a Green Rhino for TS flavours, and a green muff so it’s kinda all I can think of that I might use? I don’t even really use any of the above, I’m just more interested in making another pedal I think.