rockybottom16 wrote:
duhvoodooman wrote:
rockybottom16 wrote:
If most true bypass pedals pop like this one, I really don't understand why people like them.
It's certainly
not the case that "most true bypass pedals pop"--in fact, it's quite unusual in my experience. I've built well over 200 BYOC kits that are true bypass and have only encountered switch pop on a handful. True bypass pedals remain so popular because they avoid a variety of sonic problems that can occur when effect circuits are not isolated from the signal path when not in use. But the unfortunate truth is that when switch pop does occur, it can be very difficult to chase down & eliminate.
I'll defer to Keith/byoc to describe how best to convert your SP to non-true bypass.
Do you think it would be worth my while to replace the input and output capacitors in case one of them is not quite up to the task? Seems to me that might be a good place to start. Adding resistors seems to have no effect.
If you have the time, the caps, and feel confident in your desoldering capabilities, it can't hurt to try. But just understand, you're taking a shot in the dark. You can poke around online and see that there are a lot of theories as to why foot switch pop occurs, but the truth is, no one has yet been able to truly identify the cause, nor come up with a solution.
I'd try this first: Take the pedal somewhere else and test it. Like to a friend's house on a completely different rig or if you have a rehearsal/studio space. Somewhere completely different, particularly with a different amp and totally different AC wiring in the walls. If it behaves the same, then you can start to assume (but still not be entirely certain) that the problem is in the pedal. Because, like I said early, in my experience, this problem has more to do with environmental variables.
If you still want to convert it to non-true bypass after that, then I'll explain how.
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