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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2022 3:05 pm 
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Hello, I'm having an issue with the gain channel on a Silver Pony 2 I built yesterday. Pedal passes signal, clean boost appears to work correctly, both leds work. Gain channel has a sort of white noise, and begins to squeal if turned up too much. What signal does pass through sounds honky and quiet.

I have double checked all my diodes, ICs, and directional caps. I found a very similar issue as described in this thread, I swapped around the 1072s like a moderator suggested, and it didn't make a difference.
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=60196

Any insight would be most appreciated!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2022 11:26 am 
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What does it sound like when you turn the gain all the way down. When you have the gain all the way up and switch to LED clipping, do the LEDs on the inside of the enclosure light up?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2022 10:20 pm 
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Thanks for your response. I'm now realizing there is a substantial volume drop, with the pedal in the chain vs not, even if the unit is bypassed. At a low gain setting, without the boost on, the guitar is hardly audible. Engaging the boost or turning up the gain channel make the signal audible, but with increased noise.

The LEDs do not light up when switched on. Thanks again for the help.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2022 10:36 am 
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pwshults wrote:
Thanks for your response. I'm now realizing there is a substantial volume drop, with the pedal in the chain vs not, even if the unit is bypassed. At a low gain setting, without the boost on, the guitar is hardly audible. Engaging the boost or turning up the gain channel make the signal audible, but with increased noise.

The LEDs do not light up when switched on. Thanks again for the help.


Then you've likely got a problem in your jack and/or footswitch wiring. It's difficult to see wiring mistakes in a 2D picture, so you'll need to go through that with a fine tooth comb, or remove the guts from the enclosure, fan the wiring out, and take more pics.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2022 9:18 pm 
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I went through everything again, the switches seem right. The areas that I wonder about are the power jack, and the wire from OUT on the circuit board to the output jack. Will have to post pictures in multiple posts.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2022 9:20 pm 
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pictures part 2


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 11:26 am 
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First I'd start by reflowing your solder joints on all of your wiring. If that doesn't fix it, the we'll try to isolate the problem.

First pull the wires from just the PCB at eyelets 4 and 8 on the drive side. Then stick a jumper between eyelets 4 and 8. This will bypass the drive channel and essentially make just a boost pedal. Does bypass work as it should now?

If not, put the drive side back as it was to start with and do the exact same thing on the boost side. Does bypass work as it should now?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2022 1:36 pm 
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Hello, thanks again for the assistance. I've been able to make some progress, I reflowed everything, bypassed the gain channel, and true bypass worked as it should.

I removed the jumper and rewired the switch, and tested the circuit before putting it back in the enclosure. It sounded great, LEDs on inside light up, and appeared to be working correctly.

I put everything back in the enclosure, and now the issue has returned. So I assume I'm shorting out on the enclosure somewhere? I'll go back through and make sure all of my ends are trimmed cleanly...


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2022 7:08 pm 
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pwshults wrote:
I put everything back in the enclosure, and now the issue has returned. So I assume I'm shorting out on the enclosure somewhere? I'll go back through and make sure all of my ends are trimmed cleanly...

In my experience, this behavior commonly comes from one of two different sources:

  • Something shorting against the metal enclosure, as you mentioned. A very common one is the back of one of the pots shorting against something on the PCB once the pots and switches are torqued down. Slipping a thick piece of paper like a business card between the offending pot and the PCB generally takes care of that one.
  • The second one also relates to torqueing the hardware down, since this can impart deformation stress between the PCB and the solder joints. If there's a cold joint present, that can be enough to interrupt the connection to the PCB and cause the problem. I've also seen cases where the pots weren't properly aligned when soldered to the PCB and have slightly different heights. Tightening them down can deform a "short" pot enough that the wiper doesn't make contact with the resistance track in parts of its sweep arc.

Something to try is to insert the "guts" into the enclosure and then tighten each mounting nut just to the point where you first feel resistance. Then test the pedal. If it works, tighten down the nuts and retest, then check again. This should give you some idea of how the signal loss is occurring.

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