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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2022 11:55 pm 
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hello again, and thank you for the help with the Segundo thread. unfortunately, I'm having trouble with my orange distortion. The bypass works fine, the battery is powering it fine, power via wall wart is fine, battery disconnects properly when the input cable is removed, and the LED functions correctly... But when the pedal is engaged the volume massively drops and all I can get is a buzzy, farty, barely audible guitar sound. It's the first time in the last decade I've ever put together a byoc and it didn't work properly right away

I did the "more distortion" and "less shrill highs" mods. Anything look bad?

Image

A million thank yous to any and all


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2022 11:50 am 
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I don't expect you'd accept the response that the Orange Distortion is supposed to sound "like a quiet, wet fart?" Yeah, didn't think so.... :wink:

Seriously, I don't see anything out of place or other obvious error/problem. Three comments:

  1. Though your soldering quality looks very good, solder joint issues are often not visually apparent. Also, we haven't seen the back of the PCB where a solder defect could be lurking. So a TOTAL SOLDER REFLOW could be a useful thing to try, and often solves puzzling problems like yours, and only takes a few minutes.
  2. A longshot, but you might want to just double-check that the four pots are in the correct places. Though I don't think a swap would cause this kind of issue.
  3. If those two don't pan out, I'd suggest grabbing a set of DC pin voltages on the TA7136P op amp and the three transistors. When nothing else pops out as the probable cause, a funky NOS IC or mis-biased tranny is a likely suspect.

Beyond those approaches, I'd recommend going through the signal path with a SIGNAL TESTER. BYOC is out of stock on those, but it's simple to make your own. Refer to the instructions HERE.

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My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2022 1:10 pm 
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Location: Richland, WA
Where/when did you purchase this kit?

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Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2022 8:02 pm 
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I just reflowed everything but, unfortunately it's all da same. whomp whomp

More pics here:
https://imgur.com/a/DvE9Gbd

I found the kit on reverb last month and to my surprise when it arrived it was completely unmolested and in standard byoc factory sealed condition.

Gonna have to Google how to get these pin voltages. I have a DMM but I've never had to use it for an op amp or transistor so far lol


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2022 8:40 pm 
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LegalizeRanch wrote:
Gonna have to Google how to get these pin voltages. I have a DMM but I've never had to use it for an op amp or transistor so far lol

It's pretty easy: To measure the DC voltage level on the IC pins, set your multimeter to the DC voltage mode, indicated by a solid line above a dotted one. Use the 20VDC range setting if it's not an auto-ranging meter. Your power source needs to be connected and there needs to be a cable in the input jack. If the pedal is assembled into the metal enclosure, put the black probe into one of the corner screw bosses of the enclosure--this is your ground connection. If the "guts" are out of the enclosure, use the sleeve tab of the input jack for the ground connection. Then touch the red probe to each point that you want to measure. Report your results for pins 1 through 7 here. Pin 1 is at the bottom--refer to page 12 of the instructions. Don't worry about the three transistors until we see how the IC looks.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2022 6:10 pm 
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Here's what voltages I came up with, starting from pin 1

7.31
5.42
5.27
0.00
6.92
6.87
9.38

Is that zero volts middle pin a problemo?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2022 6:36 pm 
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new development

just tried taking my readings again, but now the chip is super hot. like i can't even keep my finger on it for more than a few seconds. these are the new numbers, is my chip just borked? i don't remember this temperature issue being an... issue... last time. and the numbers are clearly different.

starting from pin 1:
2.85, 3.25, 1.79, 0.00, 1.94, 1.84, 9.34


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2022 10:54 am 
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If the chip is getting hot, it's a pretty good indication that the chip is no good.

Unfortunately, we haven't been able to produce this kit at least 2 years due to the shortage of TA7136P chips. We don't have anymore, so we cannot send you a replacement. I'm really sorry. I can't really help you with telling you where to buy a replacement. I've tried several sources and all have been counterfeit. I would expect you'll have the same experience if you find them on ebay or amazon or somewhere like that. I don't know of any pin-for-pin work-a-likes. Your best bet probably is to build an adapter on a bit of perf board. I think someone also sells adapters if you search online.

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Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2022 7:36 am 
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dang, i had a feeling the hotness was a bad sign #cryemoji

it's alright, though, i get it. that's kinda the risk with obsolete electronics lmao

like, i took chance on the kit on reverb and it turned out to be a bust this time. oh well. maybe i'll just salvage the pots, switch, jacks, and case and get a 4-hole byoc kit without an enclosure on my next paycheck. that'll scratch the itch lol


thanks again for all the support


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2022 9:00 am 
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wait, what would actually happen if I did throw a counterfeit chip in this box?

It would sound bad?
It would sound "inauthentic" ?
It also wouldn't work?

Might be worth the $5 on ebay just to see what happens, just for lulz


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2022 11:36 am 
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LegalizeRanch wrote:
wait, what would actually happen if I did throw a counterfeit chip in this box?

It would sound bad?
It would sound "inauthentic" ?
It also wouldn't work?

Might be worth the $5 on ebay just to see what happens, just for lulz



In my experience, they just don't do anything.

Email sales@buildyourownclone.com I'll send you the last chip out of my own pedal. I guess I don't really need it since we aren't making the kit anymore, and if I'm being honest, it's probably never going to be played again. Give it a good home.

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Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2022 1:38 pm 
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I truly appreciate the offer but I couldn't possibly impose that upon The Great One. Plus unsoldering replacing a chip is by far the weakest, most riskiest part of my modest skillset and I fear ruining the board, the chip, or both. Again, super #appreciate you, but it's okay.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2022 1:52 pm 
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LegalizeRanch wrote:
I truly appreciate the offer but I couldn't possibly impose that upon The Great One. Plus unsoldering replacing a chip is by far the weakest, most riskiest part of my modest skillset and I fear ruining the board, the chip, or both. Again, super #appreciate you, but it's okay.


Well....I don't want to twist your arm. But you're going to have to remove the chip anyway, otherwise the pedal is useless. So what's the difference if you damage the PCB desoldering it, or if it sits in a box collecting dust. Me personally...I wouldn't "desolder" it. I would use some clippers and nib away the body of the chip so that just the pins are left. Then heat each pin one at a time with your iron and use tweezers to pull them out. Then once you have everything out of the PCB, you can suck up the remaining solder much more easily. I'll send you some SIP sockets too. It's a little bit like closing the barn door after the horse is already out, but....anyhow, the offer still stands.

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Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com


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