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 Post subject: Help w/Chancellor build
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 7:08 pm 
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Hey folks, my 13 year old and I just finished the Chancellor and we're getting no sound. The bypass obviously works ok, but no sound when engaged. The two LEDs aren't flashing at all..... I'm getting 9 volts to the board from the ac jack...... Re-flowed all connections and triple checked all the wiring. Here's the thing, somehow we soldered the IC socket in backwards. The notch faces the switch and not the jacks. Does this make a difference ? That's going to be a bugger to de-solder and wick to turn that around if so. My boy's getting a good education in basic soldering and pick and place components. Now he's getting a taste of troubleshooting !! Thanks for any help or tips on how to proceed.

Jim


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 7:53 pm 
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The orientation of the IC socket doesn't matter, as long as the IC itself is properly oriented per the notch in the silkscreen on the PCB.

Please post photos of the build. They need to be LARGE, well-focused, well-lit shots of both sides of the PCB and all of the switch and jack wiring.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2018 11:19 am 
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As already stated, it doesn't matter if the socket is in backwards, as long as you have the chip oriented correctly. However, if you had the IC in backwards at anytime with the power on, the IC is most likely fried. So even if the IC is oriented correctly now, it's not going to work.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 4:30 pm 
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Sorry it took so long to get back to you guys, had a log in issue that Nick and Keith made easy work of. THANKS GUYS !! Anyway, here are some pics as requested. I metered all the resistors and they are all reading what they should be and are in the right place. The IC (Thankfully ) was never placed in the socket wrong, just the socket is oriented backwards like I said. The one thing that is puzzling me is, when compared to the ' your board should look like this ' pic in the directions, my capacitors are different sizes than what's pictured. I triple checked and they are all in the right spots and the #'s on the IC's themselves match the plan. Just physically, they are a different size... Again, power to the board from a battery and ac adaptor, but nothing else . Also there is no continuity on the wire jumping poles 4 > 9 on the switch, it jus tlooks that way in the pic, they are isolated.This one has me puzzled a bit. but still a GREAT Father / Son project !!

Thanks for any help !!

Jim

Image

Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 5:46 pm 
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The IC is installed backwards in your photos--the dot on the top should be up toward the DC jack. You can try switching it around, but don't be surprised if it still doesn't work and needs to be replaced.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 6:39 pm 
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DOH !!! If I Installed the socket backwards, and installed the IC according to the dot/notch orientation, then the IC will be upside down !! I'll grab a new one and let you know how it goes ! Feeling Silly !! :oops:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2018 4:20 pm 
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Ok, one problem solved. Popped a new IC in and I'm getting sound. The problem is, the sound kind of 'swells' .. almost like heavy compression on the initial attack....If I hit it hard, the sound gets clipped and comes out really low, then rises to a regular level, with a lot of intermittent breaks... there's some crackling as well..... also if it's in effect mode w/no guitar plugged in, there's a high pitched whine.....goes away when I plug in though.... just trying to give as much info as possible.....

Thanks again for taking the time to help straighten this out...... it's getting there, and I can tell the pedal sounds GREAT....

Jim


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2018 7:04 pm 
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I would try this next, if you haven't already done it: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188

It looks to me like many of the solder joints don't have enough flow; there should be a bit of solder poking through the eyelets around the component leads on the top side of the board. I'm not seeing much of that. Take a look at the photo below of my own Chancellor to see what I mean about the solder flowing through the eyelets around the component leads.

Attachment:
chancellor_PCB.jpg
chancellor_PCB.jpg [ 197.77 KiB | Viewed 6779 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2018 7:40 pm 
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Just to chime in on solder, put some more heat on that input jack. Those large tabs take a bit more heat to flow well.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 6:46 pm 
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Re-soldered everything once again...beefed up those 1/4 inch jack connections.... still not right.....soI did the old ' wiggle each component while strumming' trick ......I noticed one of the clipping leds wasn't flashing as strong as the other.......wiggled that one a little more aggressive and it didn't feel ' solid'...re-soldered both sides of that one, kind of scary bending the pot out of the way to gain access to the joint underneath, plugged it in.... VICTORY !! Rippin' sounding pedal !! THANKS for you help guys !!! Point on !!! My Sons already asking to build another one !! :D

Jim


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 7:11 pm 
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Cool! Enjoy!!

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 8:13 am 
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:evil: Spoke to soon...... Worked great last night..sounded fantastic...played for an hour.......this am, I'm getting a high pitched variable sinewave on the gain knob throughout the pot. Ear piercing.... the first few minutes it was only between 3/4 and full gain......now it's throughout the entire range of the pot.....The clipping leds are solid red now as well...... changed nothing......patient but frustrated as this pedal sounds GREAT !! I thought I had it, any ideas ??

Jim


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 2:14 pm 
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:oops: I probably should have re-soldered all the switch wires as well huh ?? DOH !!! Back up and running again !! LOVE this pedal !!


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 3:46 pm 
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OK, now I'm starting to get P'sd off here......either that or this pedal's haunted !!! I played for over an hour, no problem, sounded great....broke for lunch and a few other things, went back to it, and that damn variable sinewave is there on the gain pot again. And now I noticed another thing.... the pedal will turn off and on with the OUTPUT jack connected and nothing in the input jack.... What gives with this thing ?? FRUSTRATED as all Hell right now..... :evil:


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 12:32 pm 
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JCombra wrote:
And now I noticed another thing.... the pedal will turn off and on with the OUTPUT jack connected and nothing in the input jack

This is normal behavior--the power jack can ground through a cable in either of the I/O jacks when there's a DC adapter plugged into the jack. But if you're running off a 9V battery with nothing plugged into the DC jack, then there must be a cable in the input jack for the battery to work. (There's a mechanical disconnect for the battery + terminal inside the DC jack that is activated when an adapter plug is inserted.)

Re: your on again/off again problems with the pedal, all I can tell you is that this is almost always due to a solder connection problem somewhere, Finding it is the hard part, obviously. Poking around inside the energized & engaged pedal with a non-conductive probe (a chopstick or fine paintbrush handle are common tools for this purpose) is probably the best way to locate it. Pay special attention to the footswitch and pot connections. I would also check to make sure that the IC is straight and fully inserted in the socket.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 10:40 am 
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Definitely sounds like you just have a bad solder joint somewhere. Did you try applying a touch of fresh solder when you resoldered previously? Sometimes it helps to get a little fresh flux in there. Also, you may want to try cleaning your PCB with some flux cleaner or isopropyl alcohol if you haven't already. We've been seeing some issues lately, similar to this, that were resolved by simply cleaning the PCB. Certain companies must have started using a different chemical in their flux that has some dielectric properties. Your PCB doesn't look like it has that much flux on it, but it couldn't hurt.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 8:24 pm 
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I'm certainly not qualified to trouble shoot anyone's pedal, and those already in this conversation are smarter than I am about this stuff.
However I see something that looks like potential trouble to me.
Go to the image of your footswitch and zoom way in...look at the the bare wire that runs at an angle from the upper right lug to the middle left lug. It looks like the bare wire may have gotten quashed a bit and is maybe also touching the Centermost lug...
I usually leave the insulation on that wire for that reason. I know most experienced builders don't do that, but for a less experienced builder like me,it helps reduce the chances of that short happening. Just a thought.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 4:16 pm 
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Thanks for chiming in hylandren, believe me , the more eyes / suggestions.... the better..... I saw that connection when I re'flowed the first time, it was clear of all other contacts, just not very pretty snaking it's way around the other contacts. . Interesting timing though, just to be safe, I redid that jumper last night , and no improvement. I'm taking a different approach here now, instead of getting down on myself, I told my son, ' who needs another over-drive pedal, we built a killer Theramin ' !!! :P :D


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