Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hi,

I have bought little beaver triangle model and assembed it. When you switch it on led is on but it doesnto work. There is a strong hum. I have checked re-soldered everything but the problem is the same.

Can it be because my power supply although saying 9V is measuring 14V? I do not think os becasue when I plug the battery problem is the same?

Here is the pictures.I have switched + and - for power because my power supply has positive inside pin.

I need somebody to help me. Is there any reference voltage that I can check ? I don't have oscilloscope.

Have you used this same power hook-up successfully for any other BYOC kits?

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Yes, I have used this PS before with another kit that I built from scratch including PCB. Non regulated PSs show higher voltage when non plugged. Should I use regulated PS? I habe one that I use for my hd500 and tried with it as well but the issue is the same. If you suspect that I burned something in a first stage with non regulated PS can I check this. For example how to check transistor in a first stage. Can I remove capacitor between first stage (tone amplification) and connect directly to output to see that it is working - amplifying sound without noise. Should I test each stage like this to find out which one is not working. Is there easier way to do these checks. I don't have oscilloscope to measure different output stages

just to clarify my question regarding testing of the input stage. Can I simple disconnect wiper from sustain pot - this would separate input stage from the first clipping stage. Then to connect the same wiper to output single pin and check that sound is amplified without noise that I am experiencing. This should confirm that input stage is correct. Will this work ?

I'm by no means one of the experts here, but while you hang out waiting for some great help maybe i can offer a suggestion. Even though you have experience with this stuff, a lot of your soldering lools like it could use some re-doing or touching up. A few joints have holes in them, and in particular the joints that connect wires are pretty dull, and don't seem to coat the whole wire.

It would really suck to get help with diagnosing just to realize it was a bad connection all along. Or worse just going around in a circle. Post new pictures once you've finished so they can rule out the silly things.

Also from my experience, my POD XT Live had a 9v AC power supply, NOT DC. That's a real easy mistake to make and could have definitely done some harm.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Good advice. I would work through the process described here: http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/vi ... =9&t=52188

I would definitely switch to a regulated PS. Unregulated units are often noisy and could be the source of the hum. Poor grounding often causes that, as well.

If going through the solder joints doesn't help, your best bet would be to use a signal tester to trace the circuit path from the input through the four transistor stages and pinpoint where the signal is dropping out.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

HD 500 PS is 9V DC. I have re soldered everything 3 times. I have tried input stage disconnecting wiper from sustain pot and connecting to output. No output apart from noise so I suspect something is wrong there. Input stage is simple common emitter amplifier so I expected amplified signal when wiper is open or closed - tried both. I have checked transistor using simple diode method between collector and base and emitter and base and it looks ok. I have checked all other components that I could without removing them from PCB.

Try disconnecting lug 3 of the sustain pot from the PCB and run a wire from the #3 sustain eyelet on the PCB directly to the tip of the output jack. That would connect the output of that first transistor stage directly to the pedal output.

Troubleshooting in this mode would be MUCH easier if you either buy or make your own signal tester, which is essentially just a movable output jack. You can see how to construct & use one here: http://byocelectronics.com/signaltesterinstructions.pdf

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks. I will try this tonight although I expected to hear some signal in my test as well.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

After more than a month I tried again to resolve issue with this pedal and I found the problem. The first transistor (part of input stage) was faulty - very low voltage on collector compared to the rest three transistors.

I have swapped the transistor with the one that I have BC549C and voltage is now OK and pedal works now.

But here is the question. BC549 has much higher HFE (around 600) than 2N5133 that this pedal comes with. Will this change the sound of the pedal ? If not I would leave it s it is but if yes I have ordered a set of 2N5133 in any case. I have heard that 2N5133 HFE vary significantly. What 2N5133 HFE would you recommend to put in the first input stage or at least what HFE to avoid (e.g lower than 100) ?

Thanks,
Srdjan

Personally, I wouldn't worry about changing that transistor again. You've got the pedal working, and as long as it sounds good to you, I would leave well enough alone and just enjoy using it. Now if you don't like the tone, that's a different matter.

You may be getting a little more gain out of the first stage with the BC549 than you would with the 5133, but the difference should be all that much, since the gain is primarily set by the ratio of the values of R6 and R4 resistors (150 for the Triangle version). The main function of that first transistor stage is to establish the initial circuit gain, so having a little extra on tap shouldn't be a bad thing. The real tone shaping comes through the Q2 and Q3 clipping stages and the tone stack, while the final Q4 stage is really just a gain make-up for signal loss through the tone control.

There's also an increased opportunity for something to go wrong when you repeatedly pull the "guts" out of these little micro pedal enclosures and de-solder/ re-solder components. Only you can answer whether or not that's a risk worth taking now that the pedal is working correctly.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks for response. I have come to the same conclusion today while re-soldering some wire connections before putting everything back to enclosure. it is so fragile.