Build Your Own Clone Message Board

I have a Large Beaver v 2.0 with rotary switch.
When the volume is at noon the level is much lower than when the pedal is bypassed and i have to turn it full clock-wise to get close to unity level.
Also, the tone pot gives a very muddy and dark sound almost until 3 o'clock and then i get lots of treble. Almost too much.
The sustain pot just makes everything more fuzzy, but with no indrease of volume.

Is this how it's "supposed" to work or do you think something is wrong with the pedal? For now, i have to put an OD-2 afterwards just to get above unity level.
I have double checked everything and all the components are in the right places.
The pedal is built by Rams Head specs and is powered with an adapter (Gator G-bus).

sounds like you might have swapped your volume and tone pots or otherwise misplaced some components.

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Please post a set of photos. They need to be LARGE, well-lit, well-focused shots of BOTH sides of the PCB and all of the jack and switch wiring.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

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The reason I've soldered sockets is I had an idea I might want to change to triangle specs someday.

Bump

have you checked to make sure your volume and tone pots aren’t swapped?


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Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

I'm sorry no one got back to you since you posted photos. That's unusual. Thanks for bumping the post; it never hurts to do that.

I would say there's a decent chance that all of those sockets are causing a problem for you somewhere. My advice for next steps (again assuming you have triple-checked your pot placement) would be either to remove the sockets and get it working in stock form, or to build/purchase a signal tester and see if you can track down the exact spot where the problem arises. It's probably not what you want to hear, but if it were my build, I'd choose option 1.

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Testing the signal would really help pinpoint where your problem is. The BMP has 5 distinct sections. The first is a boost, so signal should be really loud at the output of that. The sustain knob is really just a volume knob for the output of that first boost, so turn that all the way up. The next two stages are boosts with clipping stages, to the output should get progressively louder out of each of those (really loud so turn your amp way down). The 4th section is the tone control. It's passive, so there is a massive volume drop here. It should bring your overall volume back down to about unity gain. The last stage is another boost.

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*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

While your photos are certainly large enough, the lighting and focus are a problem and make it difficult to see the level of detail we need to be able to effectively troubleshoot. Better quality photos would help, but that said:

1. Using that many sockets in one build is asking for trouble. The component contact with each socket is purely mechanical and depending upon the diameter of the component leads and how clean they are, you can easily run into connection issues.
2. Working through this process is often useful (though it wouldn't help with a socket/lead connection problem): viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188
3. Question: Did you measure the value of the 120R resistor installed at R1? That resistor color code can't be distinguished visually from a 10K resistor because the color band order is just reversed (brown-red-black-black-brown vs. brown-black-black-red-brown).
4. To expand upon Keith's comments, here are a couple of diagrams showing how those 5 sections of the LB circuit lay out:

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks for helping out!

Strange thing happened. I disassembled The PCB, switch and jacks frpm the enclosure and all of a sudden it sounded and worked just fine.
Could there have been some kind of minor shortcircuit due to all the sockets or was it just simple old witchcraft? I have no idea.
Anyhow. Since it was out of the box I changed all necessary components into Triangle specs and now teams up better with my amp.

Thanks again!

Well, seeing as how there's no such thing as witchcraft, I'll go with the short circuit theory as much more plausible. We see that kind of thing quite often here.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

thats your opinion, I’ve seen bewitched, I know it’s real....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex. All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.