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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2019 9:27 am 
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Hi everyone. I just completed my first attempt at at pedal build following completion of the confidence booster kit. All seemed to go pretty well, and I was happy to hear normal sound in bypass and to see the LED light up when I engaged the pedal. Unfortunately, when engaged there is no sound coming from the pedal.

I do have the multimeter which came with the starter pack from BYOC, but despite watching some youtube videos and reading through posts, I don't know how to begin testing and debugging the build. Below are photos.

I look forward to your feedback -- I had a fun time putting the pedal together (until it didn't work), but didn't actually learn that much -- so I'm hoping to bone up on some skills in addition to getting the pedal fuzzing. Thanks in advance for your help!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2019 9:37 am 
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Couple of things:

1) Really need to see bigger photos than that to be able to make out the level of detail needed to troubleshoot effectively.

2) That said, your soldering could definitely stand some improvement. I would start by working through this process: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52188

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2019 10:06 am 
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Since you mentioned wanting to learn a few things, here's some that might be instructive. Feel free to ignore this if you find it confusing; you can definitely troubleshoot without it. I only add it because you asked. :)

We find that your set of symptoms—bypass and LED working, but no effect—is usually related to soldering problems. Occasionally a misplaced component can also be the culprit, hence the need for larger photos, but usually it's a bad solder joint. Here's why that is true:

As explained in the link duhvoodooman shared, the signal path for bypass is very simple: in at the input jack, wired to the IN pad, down through a trace in the PCB to the eyelet marked 4, into the footswitch and back to the PCB at the pad marked 8, back up through the PCB trace to the OUT pad, and on to the output jack. When you engage the footswitch, the signal is instead routed into the PCB components that make up the effect circuit before going on to the output path. At the same time, the LED connection is made, and the light comes on. (You can read about mechanical bypass switching in detail in this excellent thread by Stephen.)

What often happens when you have a poor solder joint is that the audio signal hits an electronic "wall" at that point in the circuit and can go no further. You mentioned your multimeter. It is useful for testing continuity, but it won't help with your audio signal. (Continuity is the absence of resistance, so, for example, one end of a piece of wire should have continuity with the other end.) You can use the multimeter to make sure of a good connection between two spots in the circuit, but you can't test to see if audio is going through. For that you'd need a signal tester, aka audio probe. You could buy or make an audio probe to determine exactly where you are losing the signal, but it would take less time to simply reflow all your solder joints, especially with an effect this simple. And it would be very likely to solve the problem.

Hope that's helpful and not too wordy. Let us know if you have more questions!

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2019 11:24 am 
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Here are a bunch more educational posts for you to check out as time allows:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6401

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52211

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=54691

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52139

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19168

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2019 11:00 am 
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I really appreciate the assistance and several of those educational links which I had not made it to quite yet -- there is a ton of great content available here thanks for all the work on it.

Of course reflowing the solder solved the issue, and I can tell that I still have several janky connections that could stand another pass. Also thanks for clarifying the need for an audio probe to test audio signal flow -- I was indeed under the impression that the multimeter was the key to figuring out where my bad connections were.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2019 12:49 pm 
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Glad you got it working!

asimplenoise wrote:
I can tell that I still have several janky connections that could stand another pass.

This may be true. My advice, though, is to leave well enough alone unless it stops working. You never know when one more pass could mess something else up. (So buy another kit and improve your technique on that one! :mrgreen: )

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My band, Austin Hollow


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