Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hey all,

So I just finished the Li'l NYC kit. When I went to plug it in and engage the stomp, the LED did not turn on (I made sure the long lead went into the square hole like the instructions said), but signal comes through from my bass. However when the stomp is not engaged, the signal is completely cut and nothing comes through.

So, Bypass mode and LED are not working.

Additionally, the Tone and Sustain knobs don't seem to work at all. Just the volume.

Here are several pictures of the wiring, solder joints, and the wire connections from pots to board. I am fairly confident that all wires are going to the correct places, and I tried to show that in the pictures.

https://imgur.com/a/ldlaACf

I've already desoldered the stomp switch and took the PCB off. I also think I cut the wires a bit too long and I had to really shove everything into the enclosure to get it to fit (confirmed no wires above the jacks when I did that).

Does anyone know what would cause the LED to not be on when the pedal is on, the two knobs to not work, and the signal from my bass to come through when the pedal is engaged but not when the pedal isn't on?

Just need to know where to start troubleshooting - I assume I'm gonna have to desolder the wires as well?

I appreciate any help - thanks all.

Edit: So, weird thing, when I check for continuity (using DMM continuity setting), from the Positive 9V adapter joint to the negative LED joint (flat side) the LED lights up? I have no idea why this would happen but maybe provides some insight? If there are specific areas to check for continuity between then I can do that, just not sure where to start. I checked several and they all seem to work but it's hard to see exactly what's up

It sounds to me like it's bypass that is working, not the engaged mode. Why do you think that bypass doesn't work?? You have no LED lighting up to indicate which mode is which.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

very good point - I just assumed that since one of the knobs (volume) seems to work, that that's when the pedal was engaged and when it was not engaged it was just not working. Is that right?

I am VERY new to all of this

That is usually true, but there are possible errors that could cause the volume pot to work in bypass, since it is the last component of the circuit before the output to the footswitch.

Do you have access to a multimeter and know how to use one?

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I do have access to one and generally know how to use it yea - are there a few things I can check for that will help narrow it down? I added an edit to the OP as well - I've been messing in continuity mode and haven't found anything suspect yet. I can even get the LED to turn on when going from V+ to the flat side of the LED hookup.

Let's start by testing the function of the footswitch. Use the continuity mode of the meter for this purpose. Refer to the labeled footswitch diagram below for the lug numbering. When engaged, you should have continuity between the following pairs:

1 & 2, 4 & 5, and 7 & 8

There should be NO continuity between these pairs:

2 & 3, 5 & 6 and 8 & 9

When in bypass, the results should be the exact opposite of this--no continuity between the first set of pairs and continuity between the second.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Ok - I'm getting continuity in all the right places per that instruction in both modes (well I tried it, switched it, then tried it again and got the correct opposite readings)

OK, good.

Next, we need to confirm that you're getting power into the circuit. Here's how to measure DC voltage:

Set your multimeter to the DC voltage mode, indicated by a solid line above a dotted one. Use the 20VDC range setting if it's not an auto-ranging meter. Your power source needs to be connected and there needs to be a cable in the input jack. If the pedal is assembled into the metal enclosure, put the black probe into one of the corner screw bosses of the enclosure--this is your ground connection. If the "guts" are out of the enclosure, use the sleeve tab of the input jack for the ground connection. Then touch the red probe to the point that you want to measure. It's OK that the footswitch is disconnected for this test, as long as the jacks are all still wired to the PCB. Test the voltage at the top lead of the 390K resistor (labeled 394) near the top of the PCB. That should read the same voltage as your power source.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Ok, thank you very much for helping with this by the way, I am really grateful.

I'm getting a reading of 9.86 on the 20V threshold. The power adapter says it's a 9.6V (it's the stock supply that comes with an EHX Nano POG).

And just to confirm, I'm touching the black probe to the sleeve of the input, AKA the slanted corner tab that's been soldered - to the top lead of Resistor 394 (the lead closest to Resistor 223 above it near the top top edge of the PCB).

Yes, that is correct. Voltage there looks good.

Next I would recommend getting the voltage levels on the collectors of all four transistors. The collector is the right-most leg of the transistor when looking at the flat side:



These should all run somewhere right around 3.5 - 4.5 volts.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Ok, using the same methodology as above, I got roughly 3.93 on all of them. The one closest to the top seemed like it was a bit harder to get a reading on but it was also the most cramped. I was able to get a steady reading after a bit. So they all seem okay.

Just a brief update, I checked all the individual solder joints for continuity by probing the top and bottom of the PCB at each joint. As far as I can tell all the joints are good. Components and wires

Have you gotten the LED to work correctly yet?

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Hey - I'm not exactly sure how I'd try to get it to work with the PCB not connected to the stomp switch anymore. I can get it to turn on with the DMM by touching the V+ joint to the negative LED joint, but not sure how to go about testing otherwise


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Is it possible that the wires are too long and that trying to shove them in to get the stomp soldered caused two to run against each other and short?


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Ah. I didn't realize that you had removed the foot switch.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

It's possible. If it was working out of the enclosure, but not in the enclosure, then I would assume you have a wiring short.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Yea sorry, I did that to test all of the other stuff before this since I wouldn't be able to touch the jacks and power adapter without lifting the PCB. That said, everything I tested so far from previous messages seemed fine. I was waiting to take any further significant action Bc it seemed like there was a methodical approach I should be taking advantage of.

I am wondering if I should just cut the wires shorter and re-solder and see if that does the trick but that might be over simplifying.


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I'm kind of unable to test if everything's working while it's outside of it other than confirming power is getting through. But yea having two pots give no response and no LED, to begin with I'm just not really sure the best way to approach


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If you do have a wiring short that is only presenting itself when the wires are jammed into the enclosure, then this is the step most likely to help. If you do it, make sure you are twisting and tinning your wires and making the connections as cleanly as possible.

_________________
Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Yea i just want to make sure there's nothing else I can't do before doing this because if I solder the footswitch again it's tough to get off and I already kind of burnt some of the pads around it on the first time around (I have confirmed they are all still having continuity to where they should be though using the traces)


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The quality of your soldering is good, including the off board wiring. I suppose you could wiggle the wires while you test it, and perhaps you could isolate a short that way. I'm not sure you're going to be able to get a clear result until you resolder the foot switch, however. You could run some temporary wires from the PCB to the switch lugs, which would be a lot easier to remove than the whole switch.

By the way, check the orientation of your indicator LED. It's blurry in the photo, but it looks like the flat side might be facing out. Follow the PCB printing: it should be facing in toward the switch.

_________________
Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

I'm pretty confident it's in the correct way - long lead to square hole. I can also get it to light up with the DMM in continuity mode by touching it to the LED and V+ at the same time.

In this case if I were to wire the stomp up I'd essentially have changed nothing. Now I know next to nothing about electronics and I want to make sure (as much as might be possible) that all of the problems I'm experiencing could be from a shorting wire or two. If there's nothing else to check with the DMM and whatnot, then yea maybe I can use some hookup wire to rig the stomp switch temporarily and test it out

Edit: also can confirm the flat side of the LED is facing the stomp switch


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Just wanted to add some supporting images:

https://imgur.com/a/VsIvScc

First you can see the LED orientation a bit more clearly.

Second I just wanted to highlight that I burned the stomp switch area a bit when desoldering so I'm kind of scared to wire temporary hookup wires if i need to do it again. I can try but just not sure if it will damage even further

Could this wire sticking off the volume pot lug close to Sustain be suspect?

https://imgur.com/a/YcmQ6NP

also added a full shot of the wires for context on length