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jcamastra
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 12:32 pm 
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Hi I recently completed a Large Beaver build. The only issue I have is when the tone pot goes past a certain point the sound cuts out, it also felt like it was "notched". I disassembled it, made sure all soldering points were good. I re-flowed the solder. When I put it back together the "notch" issue was fixed in that it turns smoothly now, but it still was cutting out. I made a YouTube video so you could see exactly what I mean.



Thank you,
Joe
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byoc
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 1:05 pm 
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I'm not getting your video to play.

Please post pics of your build regardless.

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jcamastra
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 2:05 pm 
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byoc wrote:
I'm not getting your video to play.

Please post pics of your build regardless.



OK I will take photos after work.
In the mean time, see if this link works for the video:
https://youtu.be/YmOXBrlJr5k

Thnx
Joe
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duhvoodooman
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 2:16 pm 
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byoc wrote:
I'm not getting your video to play.

Fixed. Wasn't coded right for embedded play here in the forum.

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jcamastra
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 2:25 pm 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
byoc wrote:
I'm not getting your video to play.

Fixed. Wasn't coded right for embedded play here in the forum.


GOTCHA!
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duhvoodooman
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 2:29 pm 
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Does the Tone pot problem go away if you switch the left toggle to "on"??

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jcamastra
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 2:59 pm 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
Does the Tone pot problem go away if you switch the left toggle to "on"??


Yes it does.
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jcamastra
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 3:08 pm 
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byoc wrote:
I'm not getting your video to play.

Please post pics of your build regardless.

Here are pics of the PCB.
Attachment:
20200812_165106B.jpg
20200812_165106B.jpg [ 311.66 KiB | Viewed 4263 times ]

Attachment:
20200812_165126B.jpg
20200812_165126B.jpg [ 246.73 KiB | Viewed 4263 times ]

Attachment:
20200812_165148B.jpg
20200812_165148B.jpg [ 211.2 KiB | Viewed 4263 times ]


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jcamastra
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 3:09 pm 
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Attachment:
20200812_165239B.jpg
20200812_165239B.jpg [ 220.13 KiB | Viewed 4263 times ]


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byoc
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 3:17 pm 
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the muff tone knob is a blend between a high pass filter and a low pass filter. Sounds like no signal is going through the low pass filter, which is comprised of R18/C13. If you turn the tone knob all the way to the right, does the flat/scoop/hump switch have any effect?

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byoc
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 3:18 pm 
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jcamastra wrote:
duhvoodooman wrote:
Does the Tone pot problem go away if you switch the left toggle to "on"??


Yes it does.


That's the tone stack bypass. It should cancel the tone pot completely.

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jcamastra
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 4:20 pm 
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byoc wrote:
the muff tone knob is a blend between a high pass filter and a low pass filter. Sounds like no signal is going through the low pass filter, which is comprised of R18/C13. If you turn the tone knob all the way to the right, does the flat/scoop/hump switch have any effect?


Yes everything works as it should once the tone knob goes past 2 O'clock.
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byoc
PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2020 11:57 am 
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jcamastra wrote:
byoc wrote:
the muff tone knob is a blend between a high pass filter and a low pass filter. Sounds like no signal is going through the low pass filter, which is comprised of R18/C13. If you turn the tone knob all the way to the right, does the flat/scoop/hump switch have any effect?


Yes everything works as it should once the tone knob goes past 2 O'clock.


I would have to assume that the problem is either a cold solder joint at R18, C13, or lug 1 of the tone pot. Or one of these components is faulty...most likely the pot.

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jcamastra
PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2020 12:00 pm 
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byoc wrote:
jcamastra wrote:
byoc wrote:
the muff tone knob is a blend between a high pass filter and a low pass filter. Sounds like no signal is going through the low pass filter, which is comprised of R18/C13. If you turn the tone knob all the way to the right, does the flat/scoop/hump switch have any effect?


Yes everything works as it should once the tone knob goes past 2 O'clock.


I would have to assume that the problem is either a cold solder joint at R18, C13, or lug 1 of the tone pot. Or one of these components is faulty...most likely the pot.


OK I will re-flow the solder at those 3 locations and let you know what happens.....
Thnx!!
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jcamastra
PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2020 2:21 pm 
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jcamastra wrote:
byoc wrote:
the muff tone knob is a blend between a high pass filter and a low pass filter. Sounds like no signal is going through the low pass filter, which is comprised of R18/C13. If you turn the tone knob all the way to the right, does the flat/scoop/hump switch have any effect?


OK I pulled out the build instructions and I can't locate where R18, and C13 are.
Can you let me know where these are located?
Thnx!
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duhvoodooman
PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2020 7:50 pm 
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Attachment:
LB-RH_C13_R18.jpg
LB-RH_C13_R18.jpg [ 90.29 KiB | Viewed 4232 times ]

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jcamastra
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 7:30 pm 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
Attachment:
LB-RH_C13_R18.jpg

I re-flowed all 3 locations that you suggested, nothing changed as far as the tone knob issue.
I did notice that if I put my ear up to the tone knob and turn it, it has a "scratchy" sound to it, like something inside is grinding up against something else. It has to be a bad pot, I think.
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duhvoodooman
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 8:25 pm 
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Sounds like a good idea to me.

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byoc
PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 12:25 pm 
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If you need a new pot, you can email sales@buildyourownclone.com and we'll send you one.

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Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com
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jcamastra
PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 12:29 pm 
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byoc wrote:
If you need a new pot, you can email sales@buildyourownclone.com and we'll send you one.


on it!!
Thnx!
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duhvoodooman
PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 1:02 pm 
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Just a word of caution re: removal of the original tone pot--

Removing a component like a potentiometer with three or more PCB connections is a bit tricky, because you can't pry it up from side to side while applying the heat, like you can with a 2-lead component like a resistor or capacitor. You want to be sure not to force it loose as this will often damage the solder pads and eyelet or break a trace on the board. Two things are key in desoldering and removing a pot: patience and the proper tools. I strongly recommend a solder sucker to remove most of the solder from each joint and then some good desoldering braid to remove the residual. When the solder has been thoroughly removed from all three eyelets, the pot should pretty much just fall out of the PCB.

Here are a couple of links for these tools:

https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-So ... 0002KRAAG/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VLA2/

The MG Chemicals desoldering braid is the best I've ever used--it soaks of molten solder like a sponge. I doubt that I'll ever use another brand. Highly recommended!

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byoc
PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 1:16 pm 
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You can get a pot out without having to desolder. You just got to get its legs really hot. It will take a minute or two of repeatedly heating each leg, but eventually, all three legs will get hot enough so that the solder will stay melted and you can just pull the pot out.

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byoc
PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 1:18 pm 
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Or if you know it's going in the garbage anyways, just snap the phenolic board off the pot, separate the legs, and then you can pull them out one leg at a time.

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jcamastra
PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 1:33 pm 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
Just a word of caution re: removal of the original tone pot--

Removing a component like a potentiometer with three or more PCB connections is a bit tricky, because you can't pry it up from side to side while applying the heat, like you can with a 2-lead component like a resistor or capacitor. You want to be sure not to force it loose as this will often damage the solder pads and eyelet or break a trace on the board. Two things are key in desoldering and removing a pot: patience and the proper tools. I strongly recommend a solder sucker to remove most of the solder from each joint and then some good desoldering braid to remove the residual. When the solder has been thoroughly removed from all three eyelets, the pot should pretty much just fall out of the PCB.

Here are a couple of links for these tools:

https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-So ... 0002KRAAG/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VLA2/

The MG Chemicals desoldering braid is the best I've ever used--it soaks of molten solder like a sponge. I doubt that I'll ever use another brand. Highly recommended!


Thank you!!
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jcamastra
PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 1:34 pm 
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byoc wrote:
Or if you know it's going in the garbage anyways, just snap the phenolic board off the pot, separate the legs, and then you can pull them out one leg at a time.


Thank you!!
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