Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Read thru previous postings. Went back and cleaned up soldering contacts. Used multimeter and checked the following:
Pot legs Left mid right
A100k ccw L .00 M .00 R.00. Cw L .00 M .00 R .00
B10k. Ccw L .55 M .55 R .36. Cw L.55 M .55 R .55
B1k Ccw L .00 M .00 R .01. Cw L .00 M .01 R .01

Q1 cw C .56 B .01 E .00 ccw C .55 B .01 E .00
Q2 cw C .46 B .56 E .01 ccw C .27 B .56 E .01

Note: transistors are 2N5088

Content deleted to put in new thread —SJA

Did you try just using a 9v? I'm curious if that works like it did for me.

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I’ve checked it both with a 9v battery and one Spot power supply but to no avail.

But the LED lights when you engage the footswitch?

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Do you have a link to the "previous postings"?

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*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

It's always preferable to start a new thread, even if the problems appear to be exactly the same. The reason is being shown above: two sets of photos, two diverging troubleshooting paths that become hard to keep track of.

If you can start a fresh thread, we'd appreciate it. You can copy and paste most of what you've written, and the IMG tag for your photo. Once you've done that, I will come through and delete your posts in this thread so we can better help the OP. Thanks!

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

That's okay. You can delete and I'll repost. Thanks.

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OK! Please do—we are more than happy to help however we can.

_________________
Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

I have looked at several of the postings to see if there were similar issues. All had noted that the bypass worked, led worked but no output. Not being familiar with resistors and their coding, I went by the images in the instructions. In testing them, I found some that I was not able to get a reading on them. In one of the posts I saw where there was a bad batch of transistors (2N5088). I was able to get readings off of them but do not know if the values are correct.

It's a very common problem here, and reflowing the solder joints is by far the most successful way to address it. You've already done that, although it can take a few tries sometimes.

Let me repost your measurements here so that those who are better with the numbers can take a look. I think there may have been some confusion with the other user who posted.

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

What exactly are you measuring here? Are these DC voltage levels? If so:

1) Measuring the pot legs is pointless. The transistor legs are where to focus, since biasing these with the correct voltage levels are critical to the function of the circuit.

2) The voltages you've indicated are very low. The Q2 collector should be the highest voltage, somewhere in the range of 4 - 6 volts.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks, I will go back and re examine each and post the results. I will also reflow any areas that may be weak. Would the .0L readings of the resistors have any impact as well?

Thanks for mentioning the resistors, because that made me look at your PCB more closely. You have a MAJOR resistor error which accounts for your low voltages. You've swapped the 470 Kohm R1 resistor with the 47 ohm R8 resistor (see PCB map below), so both are off from their correct values by a factor of 10,000! So you end up with the doubly fatal problems of almost zero input impedance and drastically low DC voltage coming into the circuit. So switch those two around and see where you're at!

Sorry--I really should have caught that error earlier!

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Rechecked Q2 voltage readings using multimeter set at 20 volts DC. Battery shows 9.27 volts and was used along with a One Spot 9volt power supply.
with Bias set to CCW C: .25 B: .54 E: .01
C C: .34 B: .53 E: .01
CW C: .44 B: .53 E: .01

Check my last post, immediately preceding yours!

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Swapped R1 & R8 resistors and checked values at Q2. Multimeter set a 20v DC.
CCW C:.67 B: 1.24 E: .62
C C: 2.75 B: 1.24 E: .64
CW C: 6.14 B:1.24 E: .64

Reassembled unit and tested.
Now I have led lit and bypass is not functioning at all.
Maxed out the amp and guitar volume. Turned all the controls CW & CCW.
Found a scrubbing sound when turning Fuzz pot CCW.

When removing R1 resistor lifted top portion of eyelet from PCB. It still took solder when they were swapped. I do not know if this may have any impact with on going issues since Q2 values were a lot better.

If you have no bypassed signal, that is almost always either a bad/broken wire connection at the I/O jacks or the footswitch, or you have a signal short to ground somewhere.

The good news is that the transistor voltages look very reasonable now. So you're very close, I think.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

All RIGHT!!!!! Found input wire broken. Replaced wire and tested. All tested out good. I now have a fuzz pedal. THANKS FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP AND PATIENCE.

EXCELLENT NEWS! Happy to help and sorry for the delay in giving you the proper diagnosis! Enjoy the new pedal!!

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Woo hoo! Glad you got it working. Hopefully you can enjoy it for a few days before you start your new addiction, building guitar pedals.

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow