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pwoz
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 11:06 pm 
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Location: NJ but soon TX!
I built an a/b box so I can have a dedicated line to my tuner (and it's an easy project), but I'm having problems.

Here is the build I based it off:

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_ab_lo.pdf

There is a point where three black wires come together, and I think I soldered that incorrectly, but no biggie.

My issue is that when I hit the bypass to switch channels, I get a really loud pop... I could NEVER use that in a live setting :( What do BYOCers (as well as the big name pedal makers) do to make it not pop? lol
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Jaymoid
PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 2:52 am 
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Location: Leeds, UK
Can ouy use this pedal without any power? If so do you still get the pop? It seems such a simple kit, if correctly wired you'd think the problem might lie with the Switch.
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pwoz
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 9:17 am 
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Jaymoid wrote:
Can ouy use this pedal without any power? If so do you still get the pop? It seems such a simple kit, if correctly wired you'd think the problem might lie with the Switch.

Everything seems fine with the wiring. I re-did some joints. I'll have to wait after work to re-test it, though.
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Dragonfly
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 9:21 am 
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Use 1M - 2M2 pulldown resistors before and after the switch...that will usually cure it. If it's still popping, than it's probably your LED.

Here's some info on the LED's...

http://www.muzique.com/lab/led.htm

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Last edited by Dragonfly on Mon May 12, 2008 5:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Jaymoid
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 9:55 am 
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Dragonfly wrote:
Here's some info on the LED ...
http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.d ... AQ:US:1183

erm - did you paste the wrong link there?
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pwoz
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 10:34 am 
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Dragonfly wrote:
Use 1M - 2M2 pulldown resistors before and after the switch...that will usually cure it. If it's still popping, than it's probably your LED.


Here's some info on the LED ...

http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.d ... AQ:US:1183

What's a pulldown resistor? Is that the same as the 1/4w carbon film?
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Naz Nomad
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 1:09 pm 
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Location: West Wales ... isn't it.
pwoz ... it's not a 'type' of resistor, more a description of how the resistor is used - read more here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pull-up_resistor

A carbon film will work fine, it's more about the Ohmic value.
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pwoz
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 1:13 pm 
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Oh ok... so where would I solder it to? :oops:
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Dragonfly
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 5:29 pm 
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Jaymoid wrote:
Dragonfly wrote:
Here's some info on the LED ...
http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.d ... AQ:US:1183

erm - did you paste the wrong link there?



sorry... i thought i copied it correctly... here you go....

http://www.muzique.com/lab/led.htm

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jacksoncustomshop
PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 12:13 pm 
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It seems like those kits already come with them.
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jacksoncustomshop
PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 7:32 am 
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The led, if done like on the website, should not interfere with the signal since its wired straight to the power, not part of the signal. A nine volt or a power supply is only to power the led. Could be cold solder joints, or defective parts. Just a guess.
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pwoz
PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 9:29 am 
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Location: NJ but soon TX!
jacksoncustomshop wrote:
The led, if done like on the website, should not interfere with the signal since its wired straight to the power, not part of the signal. A nine volt or a power supply is only to power the led. Could be cold solder joints, or defective parts. Just a guess.

I rewired the 3pdt and the popping is just about gone. It's very faint, but no big deal.

I'm so glad I bought a new iron!
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