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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 4:59 pm 
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Awesome FF, thanks!

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Be careful not to order the dysfunction tube. Those tend to whine a lot and blow up.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:48 pm 
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Recommendations on the enclosure size?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 7:42 pm 
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gone fission wrote:
Recommendations on the enclosure size?


I haven't checked, but if you're a ninja maybe 1590B/1290ns is possible? I'd say 125B or 1590BB or even bigger if you want.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 1:34 am 
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Damn, is it too late for me to get in on a couple of these? Or even just one?

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Muad'zin wrote:
I want Pterodactyl sounds dammit, not a nice little analog sustain.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 1:48 am 
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I can spare you one Capt. 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 2:22 am 
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Score! Thanks brother! 8)

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Muad'zin wrote:
I want Pterodactyl sounds dammit, not a nice little analog sustain.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:12 am 
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I ordered some extras, so you've covered, Peyote. 8)

PM me your paypal email and I'll invoice you.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 11:40 am 
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PCBs have arrived!!

I'll start packing them up for shipment tomorrow. :D

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 2:56 pm 
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Guys I figured out a way to mod the board to build it a slightly different way on the same board. It's really not any harder to build you just have to follow my instructions. I wrote every step in detail and took photos of it. Here's my finished pedal in this thead: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=33267 .

I think building it this way is better but I don't want you to think we messed up and the boards aren't right cause you can still make them the original way. I had designed it to be very low noise when you aren't playing but after playing it for a week I noticed a small amount of signal based noise that only happens when you play the bass strings. This is from a signal cap charging and discharging. You can still totally play it this way but the other way has no signal noise.

What do you think?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 3:06 pm 
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I think you've put a ton of work into this project and I would like to thank you! :D can't wait to build it.

I definitely like the idea of dropping the switch.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 3:16 pm 
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Morgan wrote:
I think you've put a ton of work into this project and I would like to thank you! :D can't wait to build it.

I definitely like the idea of dropping the switch.


Thanks Morgan. For such a simple thing it's taken a lot of messing around to get it perfect. I think it's a really cool trem that everyone's going to like.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 5:09 pm 
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Just a little teaser (attached).

About half the orders shipped today. The other half will go out tomorrow and Thursday.

Attachment:
stutter3.jpg
stutter3.jpg [ 84.9 KiB | Viewed 6265 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 5:19 pm 
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Oh snap! I actually prefer them in the green. Very nice.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 12:24 am 
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Nice work dudes. May I be so bold as to ask for a schematic
or are you holding onto it for a while?
Just askin'

John

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 6:57 am 
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I will send out the pdf with all the info tonight. I had Morgan take a look at the instructions to make sure they were clear enough. I just have a couple of edits and then I will send them out.

Nathan


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 4:08 pm 
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Thanks everyone, and Nathan especially, for the effort developing this.
Personally, not even the remotest possibility I'd be annoyed you've found a better way to wire it up post boards. This isn't some big corporate deal where you've the time and resources to tweak and de-bug endlessly, you're doing this, and probably most of us are doing this, as a hobby. Don't sweat it- any tweaks welcome as far as I'm concerned.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 4:35 pm 
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Thanks man, here's the video demo for the second version I built on the same PCB: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wy02HPlm8w

I like it!


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 5:19 pm 
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mothercruncher wrote:
Personally, not even the remotest possibility I'd be annoyed you've found a better way to wire it up post boards.

It's a really simple procedure to build it to "recommended" specs. And of course it can still be built to the "original" specs as well, and we know that sounds pretty damn good too.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 2:47 pm 
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Sounds ace-ville 8)

I'm trying- in my exceedingly feeble electronic mind- to work out how I might have both a standard latching on/off footswitch and a momentary footswitch.
Sketched this- CIR means CIRCUIT, SIG means the bypass guitar signal. LATCH is your standard latching footswitch, MOM is a momentary switch. Both are 3PDT. The right hand latching switch is very nearly the standard BYOC wiring approach except, crucially, the usual pin 4 to 9 wire that takes the bypass signal through to the out jack. This is now handled by pins 8 and 9 on the momentary switch when it's in the 'off' state. Otherwise, in situation number 2 the 4 to 9 wire means the pedal is both bypassed and feeding the signal into the circuit.

Image

I think that'd work, or am I a big idiot?

A big possible problem. With the above I'd no longer have the BYOC link whereby the circuit IN is fed to ground (through pins 5, 6, 3 and then 2) when the pedal is bypassed. I guess that means popping capacitors?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 7:32 pm 
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mothercruncher wrote:
Sounds ace-ville 8)

I'm trying- in my exceedingly feeble electronic mind- to work out how I might have both a standard latching on/off footswitch and a momentary footswitch.
Sketched this- CIR means CIRCUIT, SIG means the bypass guitar signal. LATCH is your standard latching footswitch, MOM is a momentary switch. Both are 3PDT. The right hand latching switch is very nearly the standard BYOC wiring approach except, crucially, the usual pin 4 to 9 wire that takes the bypass signal through to the out jack. This is now handled by pins 8 and 9 on the momentary switch when it's in the 'off' state. Otherwise, in situation number 2 the 4 to 9 wire means the pedal is both bypassed and feeding the signal into the circuit.


I think that'd work, or am I a big idiot?

A big possible problem. With the above I'd no longer have the BYOC link whereby the circuit IN is fed to ground (through pins 5, 6, 3 and then 2) when the pedal is bypassed. I guess that means popping capacitors?



This should do what you're looking for. It grounds the circuit input on bypass and can momentarily engage the effect while the second switch is depressed (in bypass).

Image


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