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 Post subject: Another new enclosure
PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 11:59 am 
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..and then there's THIS new enclosure design. I'm dreading having to drill into it, so it's probably going to be something like a buffer or fixed-volume treble boost. But whatever it is, it's gonna be awful purrty.

Rub-on (dry transfer) decals over white powdercoat with Envirotex topcoat.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 12:17 pm 
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Stunning!! :shock: 8)

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 5:13 am 
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Very nice! First I've heard of dry transfer decals, will have to look into that more.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 6:59 am 
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Looks really nice! Almost like fine china or something. I am especially impressed and envious at how smooth the Envirotex turned out on the sides.

I just finished using Envirotex for the first (and likely last) time. The tops turned out ok, but no matter what I did (via people's suggestions in their tutorials) the sides are drippy and terrible.
I had done uber-clean etches on them and a couple had nice metalcast paint jobs. So up until that point they were looking sharp, but my lousy job with the Envirotex kind ruined them...

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 5:53 pm 
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hylandren wrote:
Looks really nice! Almost like fine china or something. I am especially impressed and envious at how smooth the Envirotex turned out on the sides.

I just finished using Envirotex for the first (and likely last) time. The tops turned out ok, but no matter what I did (via people's suggestions in their tutorials) the sides are drippy and terrible.
I had done uber-clean etches on them and a couple had nice metalcast paint jobs. So up until that point they were looking sharp, but my lousy job with the Envirotex kind ruined them...


Yeah the sides are a pain, this one turned out nearly flawless, one of the best ever.. my method for the sides is I use a wide foam painter's brush, and sort of drag the wet epoxy up from the bottom, to make sure there is an even coverage (no missed dry spots). Then I 'mother' the drips, wiping them clear periodically for about 15-20 minutes, until the stuff starts hardening. After that, I just cover it up in my shallow rubbermaid container and hope for the best in 24 hours.

Note- although I say Envirotex, I actually use Park's Super Glaze, which is Rustoleums' version of Envirotex. I don't think it matters, but you can pick up Parks at Home Depot, so it's convenient for my location.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 12:26 pm 
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That's gorgeous!

As a poster above mentioned, it looks like fine china.

You should take that to one of those antique roadshows and get an appraisal.
Say it was the lid of an old decorative box.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 9:39 am 
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hylandren wrote:
Looks really nice! Almost like fine china or something. I am especially impressed and envious at how smooth the Envirotex turned out on the sides.

I just finished using Envirotex for the first (and likely last) time. The tops turned out ok, but no matter what I did (via people's suggestions in their tutorials) the sides are drippy and terrible.
I had done uber-clean etches on them and a couple had nice metalcast paint jobs. So up until that point they were looking sharp, but my lousy job with the Envirotex kind ruined them...


Can you describe what you mean by drippy? Are you talking more like what I would call wavy vertical raised places? ?

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warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 1:26 pm 
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TNblueshawk wrote:
Can you describe what you mean by drippy? Are you talking more like what I would call wavy vertical raised places? ?


Here is one of the worst ones. I tried repeatedly checking them and using a foam brush so smooth the sides out, as per one of the Envirotex tutorials. I was still trying to smooth them out as I hit the 30 minute mark. It started drying and I started screwing up the epoxy more than smooth, so I had to stop.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 2:25 pm 
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I avoid that problem completely by taping off the sides--I apply the edge of the tape right where the bevel from the top ends, then just smooth out the Envirotex at the edge of the tape with a brush. Any that runs down onto the tape I just brush off as much as possible. I found this method works very well, as long as there's nothing on the pedal sides that needs protecting. If you end up with a small "step" in the Enviro where the tape edge was, it can be shaved off (carefully!) with a razor blade or exacto knife. I find that this method saves a lot of time & aggravation. Here's an example, though you can't see the sides:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 2:44 pm 
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Thanks for sharing that method! I was happy with how the tops of mine turned out, so IF I ever try Envirotex again, I may do that and side step the "side frustration".
In addition to this being the first time I'd ever attempted Envirotex, there were several other things working against me:
-I was trying to do 6 enclosures at once;
-They were all etched enclosures, which (for me) made it a little harder to get them perfectly level at the same time;
-I was on pain meds from a hip replacement..lol

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 6:43 am 
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Hy, pain meds might have been the problem :lol:

Voodoo's method is outlined in great detail on Madbean's forum and Juansolo did the tutorial. I think it will pull in the search button. Maybe Bob can comment but if you only do the top I would buy powder coated enclosures. If you don't and you painted it the sides just won't hold up to scratches without some kind of protection. The Rustoleum is great but it needs protecting.

Did you ever find my tutorial?

For the sides there is a certain inherent uncontrollable element to where sometimes they just don't come out smooth but I've never had one look like your picture. But then I never touch the sides either and yes 30 min is pushing it. One thing I can't stress enough is use plenty of epoxy. Don't be shy or you just won't get good coverage. Also, those sides need to be clean. No grime or whatever or the epoxy won't stick good. I've also come to the conclusion that humidity and temperature play an important role on how the sides come out. I just haven't figured out what :?

Eric, sorry to junk up your thread. Your enclosure is gorgeous. I'm afraid for you to drill it too :lol:

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powerpopguy wrote:
warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 9:12 am 
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TNblueshawk wrote:
Did you ever find my tutorial?

I assume you're referring to this? viewtopic.php?f=9&t=37541

Nope, never did find it.... :wink: :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 9:26 am 
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Yes TNBH, I read both yours and Juansolo's. His was where I got the idea to use a foam brush to smooth out the sides. I believe yours was where I got the idea to run a small wire along the bottom edge to get rid of the droplets hanging from the bottom of the enclosure. They were great and very helpful threads, but alas, they aren't idiot proof! :oops:
As for the meds: I was on them, but just mentioned them as a goof. I don't think they were actually a real factor.

And yes, apologies to PowerPopGuy for accidentally hijacking his thread...

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 11:32 am 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
TNblueshawk wrote:
Did you ever find my tutorial?

I assume you're referring to this? viewtopic.php?f=9&t=37541

Nope, never did find it.... :wink: :lol:

Whew, a blast from the past. Dang was I wordy :lol:

Hy, you certainly did the research my friend. I guess in the end there is a learning curve, like with anything. I screwed up lacquer which is why I tried this method. Hopefully if you try it again it will work out better.

I will say 6 enclosures at one time I would find challenging and that is after doing about 70 or more.

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powerpopguy wrote:
warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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