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 Post subject: Crown jewel caution tape
PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2022 11:32 am 
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This is my second build, it went much smoother than the first. I didn't want to hand paint labels on the knobs and switches like my first one because it wouldn't really match the aesthetic but I'm not really sure how to go about making clean words. I really love the sound and it's the first time I've played with a boost circuit. Now I want a boost pedal which maybe I can make on my own with what I've learned so far. The mid q knob is weird though I feel like when I crank it up it makes everything extremely static-y. Maybe that's an issue or maybe I could add a ?trim pot? To make the range of the knob less sensitive. Idk I guess I've caught the bug.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2022 5:51 pm 
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Woohoo, very nice!! Check out water slide decals for the text. Both clear and white work really well.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2022 10:43 pm 
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Thanks for the suggestion! This might be the piece I was missing.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2022 12:50 pm 
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When using the clear decal stock, you want to be printing darker graphics on a lighter background. The reverse tends to be very hard to see.

Pretty much all of the pedals shown on my webpage were done this way.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2022 4:56 am 
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Are you able to order "decal stock"? I kinda sidelined it before because in thought I'd need a special printer or something. Do the sizes of the words tend to be generic?
Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2022 9:20 am 
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Rogue_Cypher wrote:
Are you able to order "decal stock"? I kinda sidelined it before because in thought I'd need a special printer or something.

Sure--try Amazon; search for "clear waterslide decal paper." Several brands available. You need to choose the decal paper for either inkjet or laser printer. A lot of us have used inexpensive color inkjet printers for this purpose, with good results. If you're lucky enough to have access to a color laser printer, that's even better. And as Jimilee mentioned, you can also get the stock in opaque white, as well as self-adhesive stock instead of waterslide.

Rogue_Cypher wrote:
Do the sizes of the words tend to be generic?

Not sure what you're asking here. When you design your decal (this is the most time-consuming part of the process!), select the font style and size you want in whatever graphics application you use for the purpose. And you don't have to be an artist for the graphics--there are plenty of free images available on the web, as well as free font styles. As an example, below is a decal I did for the BYOC ESV Fuzz a while back--it includes multiple font styles, colors, and a policeman image I found with a simple Google search. And the only graphics apps I used were IrfanView (freeware) and MS Paint. It doesn't get much more basic than that!

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And here's the actual finished pedal:

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2022 9:44 am 
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If by generic you mean that they will always be the same size for every effect, not really. BYOC enclosures tend to come in a few different layouts based on the number of knobs and switches, so it's possible you could use one design as a template for another. But I always print out my decal designs on plain paper and cut them out and put them on the enclosure, setting the knobs on top to make sure they're not blocking the text, etc.

Other things to keep in mind: as duhvoodooman alluded earlier, you have to be cautious that your design matches your decal stock. Generally, think of it as four different types of stock: you can get clear or white, and you can get it for ink jet or laser printers. Clear paper works great over light colored paint, but you do have to be mindful of what he said: dark text over a dark paint color is not going to show up well. Also, clear paper doesn't show colors well. So just make sure you have thought through your equipment and your plan when you're buying paint and decal paper.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2022 2:19 pm 
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Nice and simple!

R29 and R30 are the mid cut/boost limiting resistors respectively. Increasing their values will reduce the range of the mid knob. Or just increase R30 to reduce the boost range.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2022 3:14 pm 
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sjaustin wrote:
But I always print out my decal designs on plain paper and cut them out and put them on the enclosure, setting the knobs on top to make sure they're not blocking the text, etc.

EXCELLENT advice, stuff I should have mentioned. I always do this to confirm the decal design before printing to the decal stock. Avoids unpleasant surprises & waste of the decal paper (which ain't cheap!) after printing!

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2022 8:35 am 
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Nicely done.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2022 6:16 pm 
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Thanks for the replies, I've been really looking at the schematics to try and understand what's going on. I'm starting to get an idea of what particular sections do, like each of the switches and pot sections. I still don't quite understand what the components are doing outside of those "blocks"

I'm looking up decal stock too I didn't realize an ink jet or laser jet would be viable for this kind of finishing.


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