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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2023 1:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2022 11:25 am
Posts: 25
Location: Galway, NY
This was my fourth or fifth build and the most difficult mostly due to the wonky instructions. The pedal sounds absolutely fantastic but the build instructions need some rewriting. This was the first time I had to remove a solder bridge with the solder sucker so that was exciting... the 184 and 513 resistor pads are incredibly close to each other. I tried to polish the enclosure with some sandpaper and emery cloth and used Testors model paint and 1 Shot for Blinky the fish.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2023 3:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 1:24 pm
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Location: Albany, NY
Looks fabulous!! :mrgreen:

What did you find wonky in the instructions? If you provide me with specifics I'll follow up with Keith to get them updated.

kcirded11 wrote:
This was the first time I had to remove a solder bridge with the solder sucker so that was exciting... the 184 and 513 resistor pads are incredibly close to each other.

There was no need to do that, as those two resistors (R14 & R15) are directly connected on the PCB. If you refer to the schematic and labeled PCB diagram in THIS THREAD, you'll see what I mean. Anytime you see two pads that are virtually (or literally!) touching on a BYOC PCB, you can be quite sure that they are connected in the circuit.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2023 4:05 pm 
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That’s sharp!


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2023 5:39 pm 
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Location: Galway, NY
OK, I went back through the instructions and made notes about what threw me off. Keep in mind I'm building kits as a complete layman and am the type of person that tries to follow directions to a T. Hope I don't sound overly critical.

Divided Octave

Page 2 - revision note says Rev 1.0 but PCB says 1.1
Page 4 - Typo: 51.1k resistor colors should be green/brown/BLACK/red/brown
Page 7 - Link to hi-res circuit board comes back “page not found”.
Page 9 - Typo: “Stripped” should be “Striped”
Page 10 - Typo “silkscreend”
Page 13 - There should be a reminder to solder all current components before moving on to wiring.
Page 16 really confused me.
1. It says to connect DC jack to PCB with 2 inches of wire but on page 14 we already attached 1.5 inch pieces for DC jack use.
2. Says to connect sleeve of DC jack to “+” on the “far right side of PCB” but "+" is in the center of PCB.
3. For consistency, “battery disconnect terminal” should say “sleeve disconnect terminal” as on previous page.
4. “Connect the battery disconnect terminal of the DC adaptor jack to the "+" eyelet more towards the center of the PCB”. I couldn’t make sense of this and could not find another “+” eyelet so ended up not connecting a 9V battery connecter. This connection is also missing from the diagram.
Page 18 - This step is very difficult if you have soldered the DC jack to the PCB already. I soldered the DC wires after I had soldered the pots and LED.
Page 19 - 1/4” jack diagram on bottom does not indicate perspective, whether enclosure is upside down or right side up.
Page 22 - Typo “peices”
Page 24 - It would be helpful to include the purpose of the Aux out here.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2023 8:09 pm 
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Location: Albany, NY
Thanks for the detailed feedback. I've passed along your info to Keith to make corrections.

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My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2023 3:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 1:39 pm
Posts: 5984
Location: Richland, WA
Thanks for the feedback. We've updated the instructions with corrections to anything that was a typo or empirically incorrect. The resistor color codes were correct as best as I can tell, though. For 5-band resistor code, the first 3 bands are taken at face value. The 4th band tells you how many zeros to tack on the end. The 5th band is just the tolerance band. The color code for a 51.1k resistor is green/brown/brown/red/brown. 5, 1, 1, and two zeros = 51,100 = 51.1k. Green/brown/black/red/brown = 5, 1, 0, and two zeros = 51,000 = 51k.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2023 8:50 pm 
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Location: New Yawk, NY
Love the look!

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