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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 1:28 am 
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So my band is recording and our setup is...unconventional. We use either headphones or our PA to listen back to our takes. Well its getting annoying having to unplug the headphones and then plug into the PA mixer. So Ive got these mini pedal enclosures that ended up being too small to use for anything and I figured I could use them to make some A/B switchers but I had no use for one, until now. Problem is I need to build one that works in stereo. It would use 1/4" jacks. Can someone please show me a wiring diagram to build one? It doesnt NEED to have an LED indicator but itd be nice to see that in there. Thank you very much for the help.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 12:49 pm 
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Here's one from the Tonepad that I used to build a simple A-B switchbox. Worked perfectly:

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=107

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 1:04 pm 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
Here's one from the Tonepad that I used to build a simple A-B switchbox. Worked perfectly:

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=107

OK, help me grasp what's going on there. Why are both output jacks wired to the common row of the 3PDT? And why is the input wired to both the top and bottom row? It seems like that would make everything be connected all the time. I thought I understood these switches… :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 4:57 pm 
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sjaustin wrote:
OK, help me grasp what's going on there. Why are both output jacks wired to the common row of the 3PDT?

- Okay, I am still pretty much in the noob category, but I assume that its not unlike how most 3PDT switch wiring diagrams for effects pedals have you connect the board input to the ground when the effect is bypassed, to reduce noise, especially on high gain pedals. They are doing the same thing here on whichever output channel is not being used at any given time.

sjaustin wrote:
And why is the input wired to both the top and bottom row? It seems like that would make everything be connected all the time. I thought I understood these switches…

I assume that you are referring to the input tip. If so, then take another look.
When the switch is in the "up" position, the signal goes from the input jack tip to lug 1 on the switch. Its then mechanically connected to lug 2 by the switch and on to output jack A.
Yes, a jumper wire also goes go from lug 1 down to lug 6 but it goes no further, because the switch is in the "up" position, so lugs 5 and 6 are not connected at that time. Instead, lug 5 is receiving the ground from lug 4, to pass it along to output B, which is is the output not being used when the switch is in this position.

When the switch is in the "down" position, the signal still goes from the input jack to Lug 1, but now the switch is not connecting Lug 1 and lug 2. Instead, the jumper wire carries the signal to lug 6 (like before) but now the switch mechanically connects lugs 5 and 6, which sends the signal to output B.
Meanwhile lug 2 is now mechanically connected to lug 3, which is receiving ground from lug 4 via a jumper wire. So the ground goes from lug 4 to lug 3, to lug 2, again feeding a ground signal to the unused output A.

At least that is my understanding, though its entirely possible that I may be wrong! :oops:

If so, hopefully one of the gurus will ring in and straighten me out... :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 10:12 pm 
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wouldn't a 4pdt switch be a simple solution. that would keep it 1 stereo in and 2 stereo outs or two ins and one out. no led though

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 9:44 am 
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sjaustin wrote:
duhvoodooman wrote:
Here's one from the Tonepad that I used to build a simple A-B switchbox. Worked perfectly:

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=107

OK, help me grasp what's going on there. Why are both output jacks wired to the common row of the 3PDT? And why is the input wired to both the top and bottom row? It seems like that would make everything be connected all the time.

I assure you that it works as it's supposed to. I find that the best way for me to figure out what is really going on with these multiple pole switches is to print out two copies and then draw in the pole-throw connections for each of the two switch positions. Then it's pretty easy to trace out the current flows and see what connects to what.

Hylandren's analysis is right on the money--well done!

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 12:16 am 
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Thank you Voodoo!


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