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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 7:36 am 
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I 100% stand by mine. Been using them daily for years and they have been great. I wish that the jacks were a little lower profile, but they are sturdier than anything else I'm using, so maybe they are slightly larger for a good reason.

Was just thinking that I'd like to do another run of longer cables. If anyone has any extra cable/plugs lying around that they aren't using, let me know! I think I could use one or two 6-8 footers.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 10:07 am 
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Did you use the Mogami mini w2319 and the Neutrik NYS207 too, or something else?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 10:12 am 
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That's what I used.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 3:08 pm 
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Awesome. Thank you. After reading through all of this again, and realizing I only have a Weller soldering pen, I may go with the Redco HP2CR connectors instead.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 7:35 am 
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This thread is inspiring me to make some new cables... I think I'll put in an order today.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 8:00 am 
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I built some a few years ago and they have held up well. Keep in mind though that when it comes to 6" jumper cables that rarely get unplugged, it can be far cheaper to get decent ones that will hold up. But for custom cable lengths, this works really well.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 9:05 am 
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Does anyone know the difference between the low profile cables and the regular ones?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 1:04 pm 
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patrickbrose wrote:
I built some a few years ago and they have held up well. Keep in mind though that when it comes to 6" jumper cables that rarely get unplugged, it can be far cheaper to get decent ones that will hold up. But for custom cable lengths, this works really well.


What would be your suggestion for cheaper decent ones? I got some planet waves that I am returning b/c they do not plug in all the way. I read about it on Amazon from a few people who said they slip out eventually and continue to do so for quite a while, so I purchased them anyway and sure enough, they do not stay plugged in all the way to the jacks. I hate that I need to build a dozen or so of these cables with jacks that are $2.75 each, but I am not finding much better and I do NOT want solderless, and most patch cables are ridiculously expensive.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 1:06 pm 
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I think it's worth building your own, personally. The advantage is that you learn how to do it and you can easily repair them. The cheaper ones are generally the sealed kind and once they break, they break. I've never had an issue with any of the ones that I've made myself.

Just made a redco order... gonna try some of that flex stuff on the outside of the cables this time.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 1:17 pm 
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+1 on a redco order- Look at it this way.
-One cable made by Mogami with Neutrick jacks. 01rr- 10" patch cable. Price? 25$ -so that's about 4 cables for 100$
-My entire pedal board with custom length mogami cable using neutrick jacks- 10 custom length patch cables plus a 10 foot guitar cable. Price? Under 100$ for everything. Bulk is the way to go.

Also, when I switched my board over from the cheap cable, I noticed a pretty big tonal difference. Everything sounded much clearer after I changed to the mogami stuff.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 1:21 pm 
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Those were my thoughts too, but I wondered if 'brose had insight on a great patch cable that was cheaper than $6.
Thanks everyone for the help. I'm looking forward to building them.

Dogfish, what is the flex stuff you're referring to? Do you mean that rubber between the connector and the cable that some manufacturers use? Does that serve any purpose other than to fill a gap between the cable and the connector's opening?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 1:33 pm 
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I'm talking about this stuff: http://www.redco.com/Techflex-PTN0.25.html

So that you can make cables like this:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/242979235/ ... ome_feat_3

I don't know if there's any real purpose, but at .17 a foot, I think it makes for a nice and professional look that's pretty cheap. I haven't used it before, though.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 1:39 pm 
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dogfish wrote:
I'm talking about this stuff: http://www.redco.com/Techflex-PTN0.25.html

So that you can make cables like this:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/242979235/ ... ome_feat_3

I don't know if there's any real purpose, but at .17 a foot, I think it makes for a nice and professional look that's pretty cheap. I haven't used it before, though.


Whoa. That shit's badass!

Thank you for the tip. Now I can color coordinate my cables with my pedals like a major nerd.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 1:53 pm 
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I don't if you need some kind of heat gun to harden/contract it, though. Maybe a hair dryer would work? I haven't thought that far ahead yet.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 2:25 pm 
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Nope. They have a video showing you can use electrical tape, zip ties, etc. to seal the ends. You just pull it to stretch it out. However, they say you need a hot knife to cut it, but I'm not going to let that stop me.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 2:27 pm 
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You could probably just heat up a paperclip held with some pliers and zip through the material.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 8:42 pm 
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I use Hosa guitar patch cables (cfs106).
They are $2.80 each on Amazon. Yes they are sealed and not repairable, but I have yet to have one fail in 5years.

Also a 6pack is $12.70

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 11:27 pm 
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dogfish wrote:
You could probably just heat up a paperclip held with some pliers and zip through the material.


Hey man. Just FYI, I have some Pittsuburgh brand wire strippers from Harbor Freight that has a blade on it that cuts through this stuff like warm butter. I have other wire cutters and strippers that don't do shit, but these things zip right through it like it's air. Just FYI.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 6:26 pm 
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Any chance of a tutorial on how to make (and source parts for) pedal power cables?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 7:19 pm 
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When I make power cables I use these…

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-exp ... d--090-489

https://www.parts-express.com/21mm-x-55 ... --090-5000

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 2:47 pm 
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Old thread, but good info. I wish we could restore the pics from the OP. There are a few tutorials out there for cable making, but I didn't really think any of them showed professional looking solder connections.

I just built a bunch of cables and wanted to comment on the pancake connectors that most people seem to like. They're great for minimizing space between pedals that are next to each other - when the jacks are on the side of the pedal - but they're actually pretty bad for pedals with top mounted jacks as they take up space around the DC jack, and if you angle them they don't stack well with each other.

If I was doing it over again I'd just get the standard barrel 90deg connectors. I'd give up the little savings between pedals to have one standard connector that works everywhere.

Also I'm surprised how long it takes to build a cable! Between the braided shield, the extra shielding layer, screwing/unscrewing connectors, etc. there's quite a bit of steps for only 2-4 solder connections. But still well worth it to have high quality, custom length cables.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2023 10:02 am 
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Joe Garfield wrote:
Old thread, but good info. I wish we could restore the pics from the OP. There are a few tutorials out there for cable making, but I didn't really think any of them showed professional looking solder connections.

I just built a bunch of cables and wanted to comment on the pancake connectors that most people seem to like. They're great for minimizing space between pedals that are next to each other - when the jacks are on the side and how to get rid of gyno of the pedal - but they're actually pretty bad for pedals with top mounted jacks as they take up space around the DC jack, and if you angle them they don't stack well with each other.

If I was doing it over again I'd just get the standard barrel 90deg connectors. I'd give up the little savings between pedals to have one standard connector that works everywhere.

Also I'm surprised how long it takes to build a cable! Between the braided shield, the extra shielding layer, screwing/unscrewing connectors, etc. there's quite a bit of steps for only 2-4 solder connections. But still well worth it to have high quality, custom length cables.

Yeah there is good guideline in this threat to build your own cable, but the process is so big!


Last edited by AvaCheeke on Tue Jan 31, 2023 4:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2023 11:33 pm 
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Nice job. There is a good reason to build your own cables.

Years ago I built my own and for some reason I stopped(lazy) :oops: and started using ok cables. Easy and no real problems. I played a gig last year and I thought my amp was going bad..... Underground wiring outside for a pool and sprinkler system...... I was lucky the other guitar player in the band had extra good cables. I'm making my own Mogami cables with Neutric or Amphenol connectors. Very quiet. For the pedal board cables there are lots of people that swear by the George L. stuff. I tried that years ago when it first came out and it was prone to noise from static electricity. (they may have fixed that by now) I'm in the process of changing the pedal board cables now. I'll try the thinner Mogami cable. I've used that cable inside amps and it looks a little fragile.

Thanks for your tip about http://www.redco.com where the prices are good. :D


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