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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 2:14 pm 
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Used 1/3 of the hardener and 1/3 of the resin bottle (each bottle is 8 ounces) to cover a 125B, 125B bottom plate and a 1590B bottom plate. Seems I wasted a fair bit. I made way too much of a large mess to cover these with the Tupperware I bought today so they will have to cure uncovered.

How long should I wait before carving the sides?

I didn't realize how quick you got to blow the bubbles out. I doddled a bit so there is a few bubbles here and there...

Taping the bottom edges proved to be a waste as the tape mostly came off with all the envirotex. As I scraped along the bottom edge with my chopstick other bits of tape came off.

I'm worried that I will have too much run over on bottom plates and the bottom and top wont fit together. I might have to grind the edges to get them fit....maybe?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 6:03 pm 
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hey Chris,

once it's cured for a few days, the enviro sands really easily, like plastic. A file would also work quite well, I would think. Just be very careful that the direction you file or sand in is from outside to inside along the lip - otherwise, you'll peel the stuff right off or tear it. Even when it looks and feels solid after a couple days, it still has a soft inner layer, which allows it to peel, tear, etc.

One thing that has worked well for me was to wait 2 days until it's not possible to leave fingerprints anymore (test by touching the runoff waste stuff firmly!), then use a flushcutter to cut off the hanging drips along the bottom edges, leaving a bit of material still in contact with the enclosure. Then, I run a sharp exacto or utility blade along the edge at a 45 degree angle, very lightly, going over it a few times as needed, to "disconnect" the strip of drippy waste material on the lip from the good part of the finish. Once you've done this, the drippy strip can be peeled away, leaving the good part intact. Unless, of course, you push too hard with the blade, dig into the finish (or even the metal itself!), and end up cutting out chunks. Which I've done quite a bit. :roll: Just go slow and gentle and you should be fine.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 5:37 am 
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Chris like the Cap I use a razor knife, brand new type blades in there. I wait between 48-72 hours. Too soon you get prints. Too long and it is too brittle for my liking. When I cut the enclosure I cut it flat myself on the bottom. Be careful around the corners not to pull up the Tex along with the paint. For the pot holes etc... on top I used a smaller blade knife and just work my way around slowly taking off thin layers. Some drill it out I guess.

For the plate on the bottom I learned a trick here. I used to use that blade and work my way around and sometimes that knife would slip a bit and cut the plate. But if you take a corner and lift up on the Tex a bit you can many times work it with your fingers and it will crack off perfect along the edge. Don't pull it as you go. You want to sort of walk your fingers along the edge lifting up say a half inch at a time. Sometimes it will break and then I lift up a small piece again and continue with my fingers.

Successful cutting usually depends on how well you scrape the edges after the pour at least for me.

Now the tape thing I'm not sure about. I use blue 3" painters tape and you couldn't pull it up while scraping if you tried. When I scrape I usually don't touch the tape generally. I might barely scrape it I suppose.

If you want to post some pics it might help in seeing what the issue was.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 8:41 am 
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Hmm ok good stuff, thanks.

As for sanding/polishing what are you guys doing? I wouldn't mind cleaning up the lips a little and giving the enclosures an overall polish.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 8:05 pm 
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I've never sanded the stuff before. I just use some carnuba wax and buff away. I like it shiny.

I want to say Cap Pey has sanded the Tex before, I think.

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powerpopguy wrote:
warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 9:26 pm 
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I've tried sanding it before, but IIRC, I've always ended up scuffing it and making the finish hazy.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 10:04 am 
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TNblueshawk wrote:
I coat the whole enchilada. Only doing the top is something that Juansolo and Maurader over at Madbean's have perfected. They actually have a tutorial on it in a thread over there. I have never tried just the top. If I did I would go right to their tutorial before I did. If that is all you wanted to do you could do 20 pedals or more with the amount you have.

As luck would have it Bean's site is down and was all weekend I think. Not sure why.


The tutorials are up on my site also, but I'm going to re-write them. One of the guys we make pedals for is also a photographer and came around for a day and we did a demo for him of every part of the pedal building process. He just needs to sort through the pics then I'll stick some words around them :)

As it is, the gist of it is covered in the two tutorials on my site (decalling and Envirotex). I'll wrap this all up into one in the new one.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:59 am 
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Ok so for those of you who drill the holes that get filled with Envirotex (juansolo :)), how long do you wait between the pour and the drilling?

I waited 60 hours before cutting the runoff/drips on the sides. But I feel like the Envirotex is still quite soft in the center. Probably needs another 2 days at least to cure.

This pour (my second batch) turned out much better! Learned a lot from my first set of pedals.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:11 am 
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Chris, I'll let Juan respond but in case he is out of pocket for awhile and you get an itchy drilling finger I seem to recall him saying to drill backwards so you don't pull up the envirotex. You know how drills pull the debris up and out and this tends to want to grab the Tex' in that fashion which is bad. It can also snag a decal possibly.

Glad the second pour worked better. There is indeed a personal technique learning curve, I guess like with anything I suppose.

Juan, I hope I recall that correctly. But it won't hurt to do it that way even if not the case.

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warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:13 am 
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I drill mine between 48 and 72 hours. even when it is slightly plyable, I haven't had any issues with it taring or gumming up my bit. I am using a stepper bit to hone out my holes. I don't think they pull up nearly as hard.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:19 am 
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spin wrote:
I drill mine between 48 and 72 hours. even when it is slightly plyable, I haven't had any issues with it taring or gumming up my bit. I am using a stepper bit to hone out my holes. I don't think they pull up nearly as hard.


Ah, I never considered using the unibit for this drilling.

I agree with Spin. I actually want it a little more plyable. It just seems to be more forgiving with user error.

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powerpopguy wrote:
warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 11:12 am 
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Well it seems like others have, but every single time I have tried to drill out the holes it pulls everything up and ruins the finish. I simply use the same razor knife (a small bladed art exacto) that I use to cut the drips off, to cut out the holes. The keys are: Only cut in a downward motion, and the timing as mentioned above. It seems to usually be at about 36-38 hours for me, when it is hard enough that I dont leave any finger prints, but not so hard as to be too difficult to cut. I suspect the actual amount of time to hit that point will vary a fair bit depending on the temperature of whatever room you are using, as well as the humidity in the area.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 12:08 pm 
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I have been using a conical shaped step less drill bit and haven't had issues. I did have issue with a regular drill bit though. I usually also wait about 72hrs before drilling, and it's easy to wait because I only have 2 off days, so I wait til the second off day to pour! :-)

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 12:22 pm 
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For removing the bubbles I know most use torch or their breath but would a heat gun work, anyone tried?

I think there might be a but too much air flow with the heat gun. I was thinking it would move and shift the resin around a bit.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 12:27 pm 
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It's not the heat that removes the bubbles, but the carbon dioxide (so the instructions say)

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:31 pm 
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Yep and one mistake I've made from time to time is laying that torch or i would imagine the heat gun on there too long. I move that torch back and forth never stopping and not too close to the enclosure. It makes a skin develop and when it dries it seems to shrink a bit causing what I'd call a streak look to it. Took me a while to figure that one out.

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powerpopguy wrote:
warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:36 pm 
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And yes, I would think a heat gun would be too much, it would make the resin run all over the place.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 10:40 am 
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What I do is:

1. Mix equal parts in a small plastic cup. You need a lot less than you think, especially if you only cover the tops of the enclosures, and not the sides and bottom. If you are constantly wiping off excess that is running down the sides of the enclosures, then you applied too much....

2. I do the juansolo method of wiping excess off with a clean cloth and some electronic cleaner.

3. Since all my holes are predrilled, and are taped off using painters tape from the inside of the pedal, I wait until the envirotex becomes a little "gummy", usually after about 3-5 hours before I slowly begin to peel it off from the inside. Slowly. When doing this, I am looking directly at the holes, and watching to make sure I am not pulling too hard or too much. I am striving to peel back enough envirotex so that it creates a funnel with a hole (imagine black hole). You don't want to pull inwards too much and create a major pillowing effect. That could look weird, especially if you don't plan on covering it up with large diameter knobs, ha. Basically, you want to create a small hole that will help you drill once its hardened. I am at the point where I am able to tell when its "ready" and can pull the tape off leaving almost no residue whatsoever in the holes, with the slightest of pull/pillowing. Drilling afterwards is simple and no more pulling up on the envirotex that creates that terrible bubble-under-the-coat effect.

*NOTE: IME, envirotex seems to slightly "yellow" my spray painted finishes, but NOT a powdercoated finish. The lighter the color of the painted finish, the more visible the yellowing.

I just finished these this past week. The gold Klon is mine as well as the BYOC supafuzz (orangish box with the face). The other klons will be for sale. I have 3 supros to finish this week. 2 are blue and this one I might keep. I already have one blue pedal on my board.
All of these have just the top coated with envirotex. This way works best with powdercoated and clear/no finish enclosures.


Image

Here is one more of my supafuzz (leedz fuzz) pre-envirotex. The other picture didn't do it justice. The decal is a foil type temporary tattoo. So, the tooth is a shiny gold and the rest is a silver when looking at it in real life. I love it.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 9:27 pm 
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Awesome Info here!!!!

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2018 11:28 pm 
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Tried envirotex for the first time on my current build. I see why alot of people avoid the sides and only do the top, and that now includes me in the future. :shock:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 8:38 am 
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dboone6981 wrote:
Tried envirotex for the first time on my current build. I see why alot of people avoid the sides and only do the top, and that now includes me in the future. :shock:


Been there, done that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 10:11 am 
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jimilee wrote:
dboone6981 wrote:
Tried envirotex for the first time on my current build. I see why alot of people avoid the sides and only do the top, and that now includes me in the future. :shock:

Been there, done that.

Ditto.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 12:53 pm 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
jimilee wrote:
dboone6981 wrote:
Tried envirotex for the first time on my current build. I see why alot of people avoid the sides and only do the top, and that now includes me in the future. :shock:

Been there, done that.

Ditto.


I still do the sides :mrgreen:

I accept a lot of waste while doing it. Hey, if you bunch those pedals close enough you can't even hardly see the sides :lol:

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powerpopguy wrote:
warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 12:56 pm 
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TNblueshawk wrote:
I still do the sides :mrgreen:

The term "glutton for punishment" comes to mind here... :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 2:08 pm 
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duhvoodooman wrote:
TNblueshawk wrote:
I still do the sides :mrgreen:

The term "glutton for punishment" comes to mind here... :wink:

As we say in the South here Bob, I think I'm just plain dumb, bless my heart.

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powerpopguy wrote:
warm places theory sounds plausible. Occasionally, I wake up and think my snake is missing too, but it turns out it's just a chilly morning. :P


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