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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 6:42 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2010 4:29 am
Posts: 194
Location: Belgium
Hi practical question

Can someone explain or show me pictures of how they use/attach perfboard while modding?

For instance: when using a rotary switch 1Pole12position for selecting different resistor/cap values, It seems I need some perfboard to put these components on, and then wire them to the switch? And then attach it somewhere in the pedal?
(for instance: experimenting with different CAP-values in a wah)

I know there must be a very logical/clean way of doing this. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks
Tom

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Last edited by Tom on Mon Apr 30, 2018 5:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 6:47 am 
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In my treble booster builds I use a 5 or 6 position rotary switch to change input coupling cap values. I just solder the caps directly to the switch’s solder lugs. One lead from each cap gets attached to a switch lug and the other lead gets connected to the second lead of all the remaining caps. You then connect this bundle of leads and solder it to one of the eyelets in the PCB for the cap. The second eyelet gets soldered to the pole of the rotary switch.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 6:57 am 
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Thanks Stephen (again :-)
Do you have a picture of this by any chance? I understand what you mean "electronically", It's the practical side... (just solder all the second lugs together like that? add a wire to this 'bunch' and add this wire to the pcb?)
It would help me to see the final result...
It's great that I don't have to worry about perfboard (again), but i guess I'll have to learn how to use it (and how the practically attach it to the enclosure...) before long... :-)

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Last edited by Tom on Tue Jan 16, 2018 7:50 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 7:46 am 
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Best I can do is this switch in one of my treble boosters. This is a 5 position 2 pole switch. The unused lugs were removed. The caps have been covered with hot glue to prevent any shorts so you can't really see much as far as attaching the caps to the throw lugs. It really couldn't be any easier than I've already explained. Attach one lead of each cap to one of the throw lugs of the switch. Attach the remaining leads to each other and run a wire from this bundle of leads to one of the solder pads on the PCB. The other solder pad gets connected to the pole lug of the switch.
Attachment:
Rotary Switch 001.jpg
Rotary Switch 001.jpg [ 274.7 KiB | Viewed 4150 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 7:51 am 
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OMG
Looks like a jellyfish is eating your rotary switch.... :D
Thanks again!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 6:57 pm 
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Is that a Klon :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 9:07 pm 
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Here's a photo of a pedal I built about 11 years ago using the old BYOC Overdrive (TS808 clone) kit. I decided that I wanted to modify the available gain, bass content and clipping with different switchable component values. This involved a number of capacitors, diodes and resistors which were mounted on a piece of perfboard from Radio Shack and then connected through switches back to the original component eyelets on the PCB. For the gain & bass mod, the caps and resistors were connected a 2P6T rotary switch much like the one in Stephen's photo. These were wired so that there were two gain levels, each with three different bass contents, for a total of six switch positions. For the switchable clipping, I used an on-on-on DPDT mini-toggle switch to give three different clipping modes. The two switches were mounted through the top of the enclosure (I had to use a larger enclosure than the kit's 125B to fit everything) and the perfboard was attached to the inside of the enclosure with double-sided foam adhesive tape. See photos below. There are more details on the construction of the pedal on my website here: http://duhvoodooman.com/miscimages/musical/zys.htm

Image Image

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